pflaming

Now working on the engine that came with the truck. The head was off, was told it ran hot so they parked it. It is cleaning up quite nicely, a head is being squared up for installation on Saturday. Need to put in one valve, then will do a compression check. Did a little cleaning on the block, just hated to work on a dirty block. Only put a couple of hours into it, came out ok considering the small amount of time spent. Question: Do I connect the starter directly to a battery and pull the lever? Or do I need some other components. How secure should I 'mount' the engine to rotate it? Now it is just 'standing' on steel horse saws, nothing clamped down. Thank you regarding the head gasket, was wondering if the old one would work. If I get any kind of favorable compression test, I will carefully put the other engine in storage. Wish me luck!!!

Brian, going to look into this. Thank you.

Pulled the pan, bottom is as clean as the 'rebuilt' engine I've been tinkering with. Numbers are: T306 (star) 6 II 21 (star); 9 27 51 (date) and 1326229-36. Frank, NO MALTESE Ax head, shucks! This engine truck was parked because they ran the engine hot. They removed the head, maybe they warped it, so abandonded the truck. I am going to do a little gamble. I am taking the (rusty) head from the 'rebuilt' engine in this afternoon and have it checked out. Then I am going to put that head on this engine, torque it down and do a compression test. The cylinder walls in this engine are smoother than the other and when I put a steel brush to the top of the pistons they were not even pitted. They look better than the others. Additonally, the pressure plate is nice and shiny, the springs are still bright red, all is attached, so I am going to take a shot of Tennessee Whisky, do a toast to Don and others and see what the compression is. If it is anywhere close to good, I am going to try and start this engine and go with 'as is'. I can use this engine 'around town' and still have the other for a complete rebuild later. I think the manifold is fixable also, so now I am down to carb and some spark plug wires? This is more fun than the "Mustang Ranch" in Nevada! "Never got there, actually" Chow:)

Don, at this point I don't know what size rings I need nor how to fit the rings which is why I am consulting with a mechanic friend. Will remove the main bearings next might as well do it 'right the first time' as Frankie suggested. It is really an interesting project, I am learning a great deal. Gonna have a nice fishing truck when I finish.

Carl, after removing the pistons I cleaned the cylinders. Look good! mic'ed good as well. Crank, who knows. Poured some lacquer thinner in the old block that came with the truck, several hours later they turned free and the cylinder walls look as good as the 'rebuilt' block. This could get interesting or confusing. Will pull the pan off of the old block next and compare. May have two blocks!

Pistons are out! Got 'em placed so they go back in the cylinder they came out of. Piston #3 had a broken top ring. A mechanic friend came over honed and 'mic'd' the cylinder walls and they are ok. So new rings go in. By chance I poured lacquer thinner in the cylinders of the engine I pulled out of the truck and six hours later all turned free! Honed the cylinders and they are as good as the engine I am working on. Now I have two "sort-of" engine blocks. Valves are next. My friend will help me re-install valves, pistons and rings and torque the head and rod bolts, so that gives me the confidence to take a few risks. Never torn an engine apart before. Fun!!!. Do need a carb. . . PF

Started 'hunting' after I made the list. I have several friends who are mechanics with most all the tools. Will be visiting them tomorrow with homemade brownies!!! Mechanics I know like to eat! I do not need all the parts on the list but wanted to have an idea of what things cost before I start to pay out anything. Paid $250 for the truck and have $300 in the engine with the rusty piston so only have $550 invested so far. Learned that when you buy a vehical without an engine, one didn't buy much. Will go slow now, may make a list of what I NEED and post it! Do want to give it to my daughter in Indianapolis so maybe ought to look for a slant 6 or _________. Just a thought. Foggy out tonight, zero visability, 35 degrees and 100 % humidity, COLD even though not 35 below. Our cold is 'food freezer' cold, cuts right through. Enoh, back to sleep and thankyou for the responses.

Just copied your response into my 'engine notes' page. Thank you ever so much. Also noted that you, like me, do not always sleep through the night!

Prices from Vintage Power Wagons: 888 695 0578 Valve Cover Gasket set $ 15.00 Gasket for Water neck $ 1.50 Head Gasket $ 25.00 Oil pan Gasket $ 15.00 Front Engine Mount $ 25.00 Upper Rear Engine / Pair $ 20.00 Lower Rear Engine mount / pair $ 10.00 Engine Manual $ 28.00 Manifold / gaskets $375.00 Manifold intake and exhaust gaskets $ 12.00 Carb (Carter) $350.00 Piston rings (set of six) $ 75.00 Choke and throttle cable and housing ($20.00 each) $ 40.00 Spark Plug wires $ 45.00 Gages – fuel, heat, oil ($55.00 each) $165.00 Speedometer $150.00 12 Volt Coil $ 45.00 Starter Solenoid Switch $ 39.00 Clutch and pressure plate $180.00 Water pump $ 85.00 Thermostat $ 15.00 This total is $1,715.50. I do not need all but did list some that may be in doubt such as clutch, water pump, manifold, speedometer, gages, choke cables, starter solenoid. Are these in the ball park? I am NOT berating VPT's just getting a feel for the future. I have a complete engine spoken for, for $750 subject to: (1) compression test results and (2) I hear it running. It was 'supposedly' REBUILT when it went into storage. It sounds better all the time.

Did a preliminary price list on items I see coming down the tube. These do NOT include brakes and full 12 volt wiring kit. Primarily items pertaining to the engine. The 'must' list is right at $1,000. Does not include new manifolds at $375.00. All prices were from Vintage Power Wagons.com. Are they competitive or higher because they focus on the 'power' wagon? They want $165.00 for their single barrell "Carter" carb. Is that carb price for real and $350 for a new manifold!!! I got a little 'sticker shock' on those two.

No, but Dad had Minneopolis-Moline row-crop that went 30 mph. That really was a dangerous tractor at 30 mph but we didn't care or was too naive. I would never let one of my kids drive it today but that was then.

That car is so HOT it does't need a heater. Drove to high school in the early 50's in a 38 Chevy 1/2 ton truck with no heater, no floor board, plywood window in the driver's door and no windshield wipers. When I complained my older brother reminded me it was warmer than the tractor! Heat is relative.!

Frankie, the stats say we are both improving, mayber the Huskers a bit faster! Found a container lid a bit larger than the piston, put the piston in laquer thinner, rings down for 24 hours, then clamped it down and took a small punch to the rings. They are out! Came out a piece at a time. Piston is now in the bath again. Tomorrow to a machine shop for an inspection. Point is: laquer thinner works. Any one have four rings in a drawer somewhere? Hate to buy a complete set. Next! hone the cylinder and do a caliper test. PF

I think I will put the head on before I try kissing up to a duck. Got the piston submerged in Lacquer thinner, but the manifolds are so rusted shut the bolts just twist off and after cutting off the heads, I could NOT force the two pieces apart. Guess I will be looking for another manifold.

I like the bumper-less tail gate treatment, but would have recessed the tail lights. Looks like a chopped top. These trucks look great with a couple inches off the top.

Don, here in California we do most things with our heads OFF! That is the true mark of a Califonian:D (spelling is correct, since we got the Austrian for governor we now pronounce some things differently, a bit confusing at times to get the spanish/austrian/ San Francisco dialect correct, but the we are a 'progessive' people. I did overlook that important item! Thank you for the page, I copied it, printed it, and now I am going to read it. Much oblidged.

Turner Auto Parts has at least three tail gates and I would guess at much less than $350 even with freight. Go to the Turner post I made a few weeks ago then look at the pics taken by_______ You will see at least one or two in those pictures. Jerry is great to work with. I live 20 miles from Turner, need more pics, I need to got there anyway.

#1. Pistons are good / bad based upon the wear of the ring land. #2. Cylinders must have the same 'wear' / 'non-wear' from top to bottom so confirm a uniform measurement top to bottom. I understand that a compression check can be made just by tuning the crank shaft. Question: does that have to be done with the starter to get a few revolutions or can that be done with a socket wrench. I am going to check the compression of the other five cylinders before I tear this motor down. So now I have my 'marching orders'. (Got lacquer thinner) I would guess that pistons and piston rings come in sets ONLY! VPW = Vintage Power Wagons! They have very clear parts pages. Are their rubber motor mounts good? Seems their prices are fair also, is that a fair statement? Frankie: Sorry about the Longhorns, you better return to the Huskers, they know how to kick field goals! PF

It is not really clear but on manifold #1 pic you can see the bolts go all the way through. So I am going to cut off the heads then try to separate, then cut off again and drive the short bold out the other end, or at least that is what I am going to try to do!!! So anyway tomorrow I will know more. I have some brake fluid, think I will put the piston top down into pure brake fluid for a couple of days and see what happens. On the farm in NEBR we used to soak things in Diesel Fluid, that would be less expensive than brake fluid, maybe try that first. Had Turkey day today, 28 relatives at our house, went through a 28# turkey. Have a great weekend all. PF

Yes, the piston came out of that rusty cylinder. Going to take the piston to a mechanic friend to get the rings out. I think I may cut the heads off of the manifold then try to separate the two pieces, then heat and remove as possible. Going to be fun!

The top two rings of one piston are so 'dirty' I couldn't tell there were four. Trying to clean them or at least get them out. Does one have to but a set of six to get a set for one piston? I'm back to the 'rusty piston' engine. Got the head clean now going to do a compression test on the five cylinders then decide if I am going to continue. Probably will. Can't resist the challenge even if I fail. The third photo is the head after I cleaned it. Maybe I ought to have it 'resurfaced' just as a precautionary measure. The two valves will be my biggest challege. They are free and work with the cam so that is encouraging. Got a rusted tight manifold, cannot get it apart and the 'flipper' is rusted solid also. Some say the 'flipper' (sorry Don but I cannot remember the correct term, something related to heat damper I now recall"), some say that is not really all that necessary any way. Have both the piston and the heat riser/flipper soaking in pentrating oil at the present. Any help would be appreciated. PF

Had a 66 Tang, radiators were way undersized on those cars. Had to be very careful. Dad taught me to drive cars by the temp gage so got along fine but it was not a summer mountain car.

We drive the route enroute to the coast so know the spot well. Dean's memorial is up the road at a side road cafe called "Chilome" which, I think means 'peace'. Ironical, isn't it. When you get the clutch fixed, return in the spring and drive the original 'grape vine'. Most of that still exists and goes up much higher than I-5. In the spring when the flowers are in bloom it is spectacular. If my truck is finished I will try and join you, maybe others will too, it would be fun with a group of old Mopars. The stretch is from Grapevine almost to Magic Mountain. Google 'grapevine' and you will get the information. But it takes a good clutch! Great Plymouth and story. Paul

I know it ain't perfect but it is cleaner. The firewall was black, note third pic. When I started to sand it the black came off like old grease and the light blue paint above was really thin. I think I will touch up the frame, most of it isn't seen anyway but the firewall has so many holes in it I'm not sure what I will do, maybe put a nice piece of tin over the entire area. I sortof think I will just keep cleaning and present it as a clean-up truck, not a restored one. A more practical approach which can later be restored further by. . .

Some good folk in Ohio told me that one member of their family would put a pig on the pit on a rotesarri. The carcus would be filled full of hams and small turkeys, stuffing, then all tied together. When all was cooked, the family members would come over and get their h,t,bbq pork. There is a name for this type of cooking but cannot recall. Sounds like a great meal. Maybe someone in Ohio, IL, etc. knows about this.