Uncle-Pekka

John, You're right the picture is NOT from Finland. It is so easy to link pictures from web, I just picked an odd pic to illustrate. However, we use that very same mailbox in Finland. I will post some pictures of my cars here, but it takes some work to download them in the web. You also right that R4 is most fun to drive in small country roads when you do not have any hurry. Not so nice for long highway trips. Practical cruising speed is 50...55mph max. The dash stick is very funny too: It is actually just a straight rod through the dashboard and fire wall, over the engine and radiator. The gear box is in front of the engine, below radiator. There is a conventional "floor stick" standing up on the g/box top cover btw grille and radiator. The horizontal dash stick has a loop on the front end, which simply loops over the gear stick in front.

Yes, I've driven 2CV. It is small, VERY simple and spartan car, but like most french (and american) cars it is still somehow confortable, just forgive the powerless 2-cylinder engine and total lack of noise isolation. For an european car the suspension (springs) is soft. It is easy to maintain and durable. EDIT: I have to disagree a bit with Tim: 2CV suspension is like jelly, indeed - BUT it is not unstable in the same sense as the Corvair or some modern cars without the expensive computerised stabilization system. I doubt you could turn 2CV belly up on normal road conditions. It is wide and long wheelbase compared to weight and body size. Also drive geometry is OK. Only the torsional springs are very soft and will give poor cornering. It will nod deep, but not roll over. A common man does not dare to push it over the limit. Then background: As you know VW beetle KdF was first successful approach in Europe to build a affordable car for the masses (Of course Ford "T" & "A" were popular in Europe, but in 30's you had to be wealthy to afford any car). 2CV was engineered in France right after the war for rival or replacement of the VW (factories in Germany were bombed clean off). Later, in the end of 50's, another french company (state owned Renault), did similar approach, the R4. R4 was also simple, but way more modern. It had small 850cc in-line OHV four, five doors (YES, 1st true minivan) and front w.drive. All these: Beetle, 2CV & R4 were extremely popular among the hippies of the 60's. In my childhood they were common sight in roads of Finland as well. To speak about small cars of the sixties, one must mention also english and italian rivals: Morris Minor (later the Mini) and FIAT 500 (later 600). All competed in class of engine displacement less than a litre. Now you probably already have guessed that unkka P is a nut for these small cars. I confess. I have three Renault R4's and one earlier R1090 "Dauphine" project. The R1090 had the same small engine as R4. It is about the same size, but "4d sedan" and rear engine set up.

Amazing - this truly shows genius imagination. He has preserved the 2CV spirit, yet build something totally new design. The car somehow reminds of early WW2 fighters and same time start wars space ships... My hat is off for this builder.

Nice story how Fred got his visor installed. I did not noticed this thread in Nov. when it begun, but read it though today. Fred you have a stunning beautiful coupe. All time favorite styling (of mine). Congratulations! One thing that made me think: How high the Fulton visor prices have just recently risen. @ eBay they ask $100...300 for poor beaten twisted junks and $300...500 for good ones! Even home made brackets are $49! I bought mine 2006 for $150, it is good condition, no dings. All parts and functional. Back then you could get a poor one at $50 even at eBay. By the way, in case some one needs the center bracket: This guy seems to offer the correct design, die pressed, less than the other fellow above asked for home made substitues: http://cgi.ebay.ca/FULTON-SUNVISOR-WINDSHIELD-PINCH-CLAMPS-BARREL-BOLTS-/120671637347?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c18970f63#ht_500wt_950 (Still $45 for center bracket only is high, if u ask me...)

Well, as folks here said, you can run the engine by filling the water in and circulating it without radiator, but how much such "test" actually tells you? My D24 had a shot main bearing and the only symptom was low oil pressure. I ran it two summers before I pulled oil pan and found destroyed main bearing. It was so bad that I doubt a modern engine would have ran a hundred miles with such. If I were you I would take it apart before installing. At least pull oil pan, valve covers and head. It may run but still be in need of overhaul. Much easier to install e.g. new crank end sealing with the engine on shop floor than installed in. "Just my 2 cents" (I learned this sentence here, hope it is appropriate in this context...)

Happy New Year from Frost bite Finland! That's our cat "Kekkonen" chewing up the Christmas tree

I just received my copy of the Jan.issue - Haven't read it yet. By 1st glance it's packed with interesting articles - once again. - Comparison '56 DeSoto hemi vs. '57 Chevy fuel injection - '38 Zephyr V12 3w coupe - unrestored - '69 Olds Toronado - 56 Hudson Hornet - story of Pontiac L-head 8 - story of the jeepsters ... and a '41 Packard with truly hideous looking formal limousine body ...made my day... "a Glad subscriber from Finland"

Haa.. Your grandpa was a vise guy as well? Runs in the family...

Dear Santa! I wish for a full Edgy set for my 230 and a pair of Langdon's exhaust headers as well.

This is the P12 plastic model, built by yours truly using the AMT #6184 (You can get these kits at eBay at $15) You also need this plastic kit + R&R resin body if you intend to build a P15 model

How much does a new EDGY head cost these days? (At least you'll know what quality you'll get...)

not sure which page he means, but here are some resin bodies of 40's Plymouths': http://www.resinrealm.net/Star/RRGalleries/Plymouth/index.html Be aware, that if you want to build up a table top model, you need "a donor car", i.e. e.g. AMT-brand plastic model kit to complete the puzzle. Further, working with these resin models is not as simple and easy as plastic (styrene) parts kits. The parts need to be finished by dremel & sanding. In many cases there are small holes to be filled, requires primer & prework. Accuracy of the parts may be poor compared to plastic kits.

I know it's not my business, but I need to ask: Why do you run tubes in your radials? My D24 original rims are of tubeless type and I run tubeless radials without troubles. Then background why I'm eager to discuss this: I've had two incidents with a setup of a inner tube inside tubeless radials exploding at speed. The latter accident was front tire at speed of 60mph and boy was that a close call. The thing is, that kind of setup blows air out in a second and then you're really in trouble keeping your car on the road. Another issue is, that tubeless radials are not designed for inner tube. They seem to "rub" the tube. In both cases I found a really big hole in the tube afterwards. Nearly a size of a playing card. Also, if you run in a nail a tubeless radial leaks really slow allowing you to drive home. If you blow a inner tube, that's it. "Nailed at the spot" Somebody say, that their rims don't hold air with tubeless tire due to corrosion. Especially in a situation like that I'd never use a inner tube. Gives me creeps to imagine how the corroded rim rubs the tube on each turn of the wheel. So easy to have rims sand blasted & sprayed with thick coat of epoxy. Well... that was my gospel today - Drive safely!

I agree, colors looka like taxi, but the text in side says "police". The front fenders and grille are closer to Dodge than Desoto, but at this level of details, it could be any of those.

Happen to spot this at eeeBay. Looks familiar - D24 police car? http://cgi.ebay.com/1950s-Marx-police-car-large-rare-toy-NO-RESERVE-/110620812313?pt=Diecast_Vehicles&hash=item19c183a419#ht_500wt_950 Christmas is coming... If I would live in US, I'd probably bid to get this for my kids. I try to give exiting & exotic old time toys for them every now & then, even if they seem to be more interested in computer games & cyber figures...

Rodney, Which ghost you are most concerned: The nail wound or the dulled white wall? I would presume the nail damage, however the title of your thread is misleading me? Regarding to dulled white wall, I see no problem. As far as I know, what you've done is exactly how white walls should be reconditioned/cleaned. The nail wound: In case the tire is not leaking, nor shaking in run (=no damage in the radial belt) I would not be worried, but drive on. In case there is even a slow leakage (pressure dropping slowly during days), I would get the tire to be repaired by professional. You probably know the way they drill a small hole where the wound hole is and insert a conical "rubber rivet", which is vulcanized in. The tire will be as good as ever.

I bought this old Steward&Warner tachometer just because the dial is so handsome and because it was a cheap bargain. As you see its a big one: ca. 3,5" diam, 5" long Does anyone of you happen to got the sender unit?

Thanks for noting, Shell - I totally missed Bob's thread... Well, no harm, this nice car deserves the extra attention. Then again, I agree with your comments: - too low stance in the pictures (however, air ride is adjustable...) - tidy e-bay, but owner picked colors make it look pale (lame) What I truly admire, he says the paint is by factory, no overspray ever - and it looks mint!

Spotted this one by chance at eeBay. Nice car allover. Mine D24 should be this style when I some day got it painted (apart the air ride) The visor, spotlights, fender skirts, and wheel decorations appeal to me like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110615250698&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#v4-43

Nostalgic garage. This photo makes me feel good. Only, not much room to work on the cars. Then again, I suppose than in a city like Berlin, you have to pay big bucks for that space? Captains P9 is great looking sled, but I like the DeSoto as much. As a matter of fact I would trade my D24 for a S11 any day. The waterfall grille appeals to me.

Nope - not a Dodge. Look at the radiator top. Also side window shape is typical with this very model. As I mentioned before: do not pay attention to the odd weatherstrip on the windshield - it's an aftermarket gadget.

Good work Fred! Pulling exhaust manifold without breaking anything nor leaving any studs in the block is job well done. Also when it comes to "the basement" you are well off. When I pulled my oil pan couple of years ago, I found at least a liter of lead deposit in it. The suction mouth of the oil pump was ca. 85% clogged by that very deposit. A top of a cherry there was brass shim repair in a main bearing. No wonder there were no oil pressure when I got the car. In spite of all this, the engine run quite nice - of course much better after mending the problems. It is a miracle how strong and dependable these mopar L-heads are.

61 views so far no comments... Was it something I said? Sincerely no offense... Well, at the time I posted this I did not knew myself the make of the car. Yesterday night I studied "the spotters guide" by Tad Burness and now I THINK I know this car - You guys should also know... It is a mopar.

Cool it... It's most probably an american car... This photo was taken in 1959 when the Christmas lights were lit in down town Helsinki (season opening for the shops). Santa Claus rode to town in this 1929 sedan. (text says "here comes Santa Claus") The car is covered by frost and on the windshield there is a typical finnish winter accessory: A double glass sealed on to keep ice & frost off the screen. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The part type code in the picture is not the actual part number. Type code is a lookup reference for parts index. The part number for right hood side lock is 983 399 and left side 983 400. Control cable is part # 1154 277.