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Uncle-Pekka

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Everything posted by Uncle-Pekka

  1. Thanks - I know there are lots of choices of models & suppliers. As said above, I will rely on original oil bath cleaner in long run. That is the best system for a flathead both in resp of flow and air quality. However, I considered the inexpensive small wirths cleaner as a temporary aid before I find all the right tuning of carb and ignition... Now I become interested in the issues affecting to dimensioning the sufficient cleaner screen. Of course one can mount a big over sized unit, but which is the optimal size? There's another web calculator: http://www.secondstrike.com/Technical/AirCleanerCalc.asp
  2. Found a simple calculator for air cleaner size in the web; http://www.thedirtforum.com/airfilterheight.htm Acc. to this calculation two diam.4" x height 2" paper filters should be enough for 230cid engine turning 3600 rpm. []
  3. Yup, that's very same size as in the dome offered at Wirths', round 4" diameter. I.e. won't work for our flattie... too bad. Would have looked good on her.
  4. Don, What is the outer diameter & height of those filters (each)? Were there any symptoms before the plugs failed?
  5. Rats! I did not think of that at all. Just ASSumed the flow would be enought since they are designed for standard single barrel 2 5/16" throat unit ... I think I've seen these mounted on carbs feeding flathead engines, but it may be I've only seen these on two carburetor set ups - then the flow per unit would be half cmpred to mine std one unit system - right? Please Don - tell us your experiences. /Pekka
  6. This "Red Green" do-it-yourself-hillibillie episode is the best laugh ever. Also harmless fun when he does it out of K-cars (what else would work this good?) Some poor bugger in 2051 will yet still cry over those wasted halves... Just as I do now due those TWO Airflows...
  7. Shel, I added page 239 (hood parts) in PhatDaddy's thread also. /Pekka Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  8. If the parts number will be of any help... pls look the parts you need up in below page and let me know the type code. I'll look up the actual parts numbers from the tables for you. B.r., Unkka Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  9. Nice work- engine and body looks like top quality job - congratulations! Do not take this me being vise-guy or picking you - just a friendly suggestion: Consider using a camera stand when taking pics in the garage. 2 out of 4 pictures are blurry due to camera moving while shutter open. Cheers, Pekka
  10. Reg Evans gave me this link some weeks ago. Lots of nice repro & aftermarket stuff in there - I will surely place an order there before Xmas. http://www.wirthscustomauto.com/engine.html However, when browsing all categories, I also found inexpensive chrome dome style air cleaners, many styles: http://www.wirthscustomauto.com/701309-p-air-cleaners.html In my D24 I am happy to use the original oil bath unit, but on my Nash I've had tedious vapor lock & over flooding problems etc. which force me to take the air cleaner off several times a day. In those conditions the oil bath is not convenient. Big, bulgy and spills oil if it falls on side. I've also seen lots of discussion here at p15-d24 to convert oil bath for paper filter. Much easier to mount one of these, starting from $9. I will buy one for me Nash... Well should I take 2 just in case someday would find an Offy-head for two carb setup... Racing style-Unkka...
  11. Good greif!!!! Airflow... of all cars - WHY?
  12. G'id day folks, Managed to get an original parts book for the D24 from eeBay: Book #D-12354, 531 pages covering all D24 1946-48, published in Dec.1948. Photo-like explosion pictures and detailed part lists. I am not sure how I can utilize all this info best way, but one idea hit me: When you folks have anything you need to know from this source, just post this thread. I'll be glad to scan required pages and post them here. Uploaded with ImageShack.us
  13. A smart photoshop copied from the above thread. Kind of interesting design, but will not work in practise... ?
  14. Tim, Shel, Bob, Thank you for your help & hints. I have now top three actions I try: 1) Ask local Chevy fellows if they'd have this to spare 2) My original idea; Make one out of 1mm diam steel wire and heat it to give it spring stiffness 3) Order some from Rest'Specl's to my friends' address in SC and wait until summer he comes Finland for vacation
  15. Thanks Tim! Frankie's right - This is the Nash - it has "GM-style" butterfly vent window. Small crank to open it. The spring is mounted in a hard place, deep groove behind big escutcheon. /Pekka
  16. Where would I find a couple of spring pins acc. to below picture? ¨ 15mm = 3/5"
  17. Heat range must be considered. What about the resistor? Is it an issue with the D24 ignition system, where resistor is not required?
  18. AC44 plug works well in a flathead engine, but... What do the prefix & suffix letters stand for? E.g. R44SX appears commonly for sale at eBay.
  19. Thanks Captain - However, those are just pieces of sheet metal with a sticker on. What I had in my mind was a heavy cast plaque... Been busy lately with work, thus no progress. When making the cast model, it would be a great help to use 3D letter patterns. Any suggestions where one could find "loose letters"? I can duplicate (or "clone") shapes in resin cast, but would like to find a pattern for each digit in a nice font for starters.
  20. Good point above reg.to copyright. By any means there will be no public commercial distribution. The idea is non-profit hobby based group. Gather together and see what we can do to make a crest to show the colors of our community. Which was the process when the above mentioned topper was made? (Norm's Coupe, yellow "owners club" topper) The logo was not reproduced there, as it won't be in the present design either. Please advise.
  21. The coupe looks good. Nice color, nice fender skirts. Is the body the same as '41 P12 apart the nose & hood?
  22. Rodney, I've got the original wires (for most of) and of course 6V positive ground system. Everything but dome light works - I guess I am fortunate as Gander Gladstone. The only thing I have had to repair were the head light grounding (also renewed the wiring and bulbs) and the horns (contacts were pretty dirty & corroded). Here in Finland the yearly inspection is very strict on lights and instruments. No malfunctions allowed. Well, the dome light then... A couple of years back the dodge almost caught fire when I switched the dome light on. Turned out the wire inside back door pillar had lost insulation. I disconnected the entire system and decided to run new wires all over when I'll have spare time for that- haven't had yet... OT: - Tim I see you belive in the law of karma: Bad things only due to bad people - my experience in not in line with that philosophy - thus I keep lights on even if I've been good - when I'm being bad I run without lights, works for me...
  23. B*llsh*t, who needs to look back, anyway? Rear view is unnecessary feature in a car when it comes moving on, isn't it? Seriously, that's why I though a simple crest would be versatile. Each & every can hang it where ever place seems suitable...
  24. Ahem... back to the business. First of all; Thanks for you all for positive & encouraging feedback. Honestly I was a bit afraid I get laughed out. As a foreigner I was a bit uncertain if this plaque business is strictly for kustom kar klubs. Nice to learn we family men are allowed to do it as well. I did not knew of the topper made by Norm. That looks cool, is the cast mold still kept somewhere? Neverthless, a crest would be an addition, not to replace the earlier achievement - see item #2 below. Then the practical issues: 1) I read a thread some where describing the amateur process to cast these. I can do the cast model out of plywood & resin. I also know a fellow here, who has been casting small items, thus I thought ask him what it would cost to do the actual mold & cast. 2) Some prefer a crest or plaque in rear window or hanging on bumper. Some prefer plate topper. A compromise would be to just do a cast crest. Every one for himself to decide where and how display it - What do you think? 3) The text/name of the "club": As Rodney pointed out, there are other models but P15/D24 as well. To me what matters is the flathead six - I would like that to be somehow recognised in the crest. Please suggest what should be in writing, also should there be some (simple) graphics (picture)?
  25. Oh rats - I've been so proud of my spelling and personal hygiene. Here I am spreading plague... And just as the real thing, it seems I cannot help it anymore once it has started to go around! - I can edit my 1st message, but NOT the thread subject line!!! Please Great Medicine Man of web administration stop the PLAGUE!
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