Merle Coggins

I had thought about that too, but I like the carpet lining addition.

When I adjusted mine I was able to loosen the nuts, for the front adjusters, and reinsert a new cotter pin. Then I could turn the adjustment pin using the nut. Once adjusted I pulled the drum back off to hold the pin while tightening the nuts. Worked like a champ and didn't have to remove the drum numerous times like Dave mentioned. Merle

Thanks Jim. Someone else had asked me if those clips came with it, but I didn't know. I don't remember if that was here, or during the DPETCA chat on Sunday. So whoever that was... there's your answer.. Good info, Merle

Steve, I'm sorry to hear that you have to unload your project. I remember how you were looking forward to working on it. I hope things work our well with your family. Merle

I did my frame with POR-15. I sand blasted the few spots that still had paint on it. Then cleaned and prepped the entire frame with POR-15's Marine Clean and Metal Ready, as they recommend. I sprayed the POR-15 with a Black & Decker airless sprayer. Then a coat of POR-15 primer and top coated with POR-15's Chassis Coat to give it a satin gloss finish. The POR-15 is UV sensitive, so if it could be exposed to sunlight it will fade. The top coat won't. POR-15 is a very tough finish that bonds tightly to rusty metal and seals it from further rust. I have a friend that painted his Jeep frame with it a few years ago. This Jeep lives off-road (he was the Northwoods Jeep Jamboree coordinator) and the only damage to the coating is where he has bounced it HARD off of a rock. Even there it is a small nick and there is no secondary paint failure. This is what sold me on using it on my truck. Merle

Thanks Norm. That seals it. I'm going to bite the bullet and place an order with Steele for my window molding. Merle

I finally got around to digging out what I made and snapping a pic. I used a small slide hammer puller that uses sheet metal screws (Matco SP80). I use it for pulling seals and etc when you can't get behind them. The end is threaded with standard 3/8-16 thread. I went to the hardware store and picked up a 3/8 sleeve nut and a J bolt. I cut J bolt a little shorter on the hook side and ground it thin enough to go up into the narrow part of the tube. It hooked into the hole and I gave it several good smacks with the slide hammer before it started to move. I thought I was going to rip through the metal in front of the tube slot before it moved. As you can see, the J bolt starting bending too. Once it started moving it came out rather easy.

How would I know if it shrunk? It was still installed in it's original location. I would have to assume that it is still the original dimension. But I've been wrong before. "I once thought I was wrong, but I was mistaken."

Byron (Byronb3b) sent me a pic of his truck and asked me to post it here you you guys. I figured this would be the appropiate thread to use. Nice looking truck Byron. He also mentioned that he's been thinking about selling his wife's '65 Barracuda and getting this Imperial l

Bob, maybe that beer will be aged to perfection. Or maybe the old steel cans have rusted through by now and there'll be beer all over everything.

Reg, If I can make a pattern from my one piece rear panel you could add that to your's. Any suggestions on making a pattern from the original? Do I just trace it out on a large piece of paper? Any thing else that I need to take into consideration? Merle

Thanks guys. The Steele Rubber Products will cost over $300 more for all of the pieces I need, but it sounds like the lack of agrivation will be worth it. Dave, I looked through Steele's catalog for the fender filler, but didn't find one listed. If someone has an original that they can send in to them, maybe we could voice our opinion to them and get them to reproduce them. Merle

I've been pricing weatherstripping for my truck. I've seen guys post things here about molding from Roberts regarding installation struggles and fit. But Steele's rubber is a lot more expensive. For example, Vulcanized Windshield Weatherstrip from Steele is $149.70, whereas stuff from Roberts or Bernbaum is only $55. Is there really that much difference? It looks like the cheaper stuff isn't a 1 piece vulcanized unit. Do they seal up OK? The molding that I took out is 1 piece vulcanized type. Is the Steele stuff a better match of the original? Also, rear window molding from Steele = $126.10, from Roberts = $40.00 Corner window molding from Steele = $118.90 for the pair, from Roberts = $40.00. And Bernbaum has a complete set for $80.00. I'd have to guess that Roberts and Bernbaum have the same stuff since their prices match. I don't mind paying more if I know if I know I'm getting more quality. But it's considerably more. Any comments? Merle

On mine there are clips on the back side of what the call the rollers. It's actually just a pin that slides in the slot along the bottom of the glass. Reach around under the regulator and glass and slide the clips off of the pins. As you say, there's not much room to work, but once you get the clips off, the glass will come out through the top. You'll have to remove the 2 rubber bumpers on the inside door lip to get it out. Good luck.

I got 'em off. One came off using the needle nose plier tip. The rest I had to use the pliers wrapped with tape tip. But all of them wouldn't budge without a little heat from a small propane torch. The wiper switch pulled right off as described by Charles. Piece of cake. And again the tapped pliers did the trick to remove the nut to get the entire assemble out. Thanks Guys. Merle

I see that Roberts has glove boxes for our trucks. Has anyone tried one? Does it fit well? Has anyone tried to fabricate one out of sheet metal or other material that may be stronger than the cardboard type material of the original one? Or is it not worth the effort for $22 for a replacement from Roberts? Merle

A while back there was a thread regarding the cowl vent seal and the lack of proper fit. Has anyone come up with one that fits properly? I remember someone mentioning a cut to fit version too. Maybe I just need to go back and search the archives, but I'm feeling lazy tonight. I pealed mine out today, and nearly got it in one piece. But I don't think there's enough there for a sample to make one. Maybe I'm wrong though. Merle

OK... what's the trick for removing the nuts that hold the light switches and choke/throttle cables? There are 4 small dimples that look like you'd need a special tool to fit into them. Is there a tool available to loosen/tighten these? Is there any other way to get a grip on them without destroying them? Also, how do you remobe the wiper switch lever? Everything else has been removed from the cab except for these pieces. I don't want to have to paint around them if I don't have to. Merle

That would be the Harold that started this thread, Norm.

Did you check the thread in the "Announcements" section relating to that topic? Merle

I'm not familiar with the early '40's truck glass, but the Pilot-House ('48-'53) glass is all simple flat laminated auto glass, except for the corner glass. If Flat glass will work for you, you could have any auto glass shop cut a piece to any size you need. Merle

Ed, that guy lives near me. I saw that truck last summer at the Iola show. Todd B and I talked with him for some time. Found out that he lives about 10 miles from me. He uses two cabs to make that one. It has a Ford Ranger box and a Ford 9" rear end, but it looks good. It is nicely done. Merle

I was planning on using Steele Rubber. Any objections? As I remember, when I was removing my glass, the rubber lip goes to the inside of the cab. This lip also covered the edge of the interier panel. So you'd be installing the glass from the outside in. Merle

I just bought a new drum puller from my Matco guy. He had it on his truck so long that he took it off and stored it in his basement, so he gave me a good deal on it. But I believe they are still listed in their catalog. Merle