Merle Coggins

Good idea Dave. I was able to loosen the nuts and reinsert a new cotter pin (without bending over the ends). Then when I turned the nuts with a wrench, it also turned the adjusters. Once adjusted, I removed the cotter pin, tightened the nuts and reinstalled the cotter pins. I did, however, remove the drum again to hold the adjustment pins while tightening the nuts, as a precaution. Merle

Looks like you didn't get the complete link. When you're in your Photobucket site, copy the "IMG Code" link and past it into your message. It should look something like this http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h254/mac2026/P2100239.jpg (with at the ends) If I left the IMG coding on the ends, you'd see a shot of my truck, as it sits currently, like this. (wow, I had to preview and edit this several times to get the link to break the way I wanted it to) Hope this helps Harvey, Merle

I would suggest doing it again at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) for more accurate readings. If the throttle is closed it can't draw in enough air to compress. Otherwise it doesn't look too bad. The readings aren't too far apart. The 30 psi difference between #5 and #6 may be alarming, but that may change if done again at WOT. If you had indeed bent a valve I would think it would be much lower, especially when done with a closed throttle. As for getting oil into the cylinders... I've often wondered that same thing. The only thing I could think of would be to use a small tube to fish into the cylinder chamber and inject oil through that. Merle

That's one hell of a snow man. I'm guessing it was carved out of one pile of snow? I doubt that someone lifted those upper snowballs up there.

You may want to check out this site http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/frontend/front.htm Good luck with your project. Merle

Sounds like you've got a long history with this truck. That's awesome. I've heard of guys using Dakota's or even S-10's for chassis' under Pilot-House trucks. I don't know how much difference your '54 would be, but if you look around, and do some measuring, I'm sure you'll find something. Also, you might try http://www.dodgeclassictrucks.com/ They have a little more info on your year truck. Don't think I'm kicking you out of here. I'd love to hear how your project progresses. And there are several members who have vehicles that don't exactly match the Pilot-House era, or P15/D24 era, but they are accepted here without prejudice. And since there are still several common components between all of the Mopar vehicles through the late 50's, you'll still be able to get a lot of help from this bunch. Good luck with your project, and I hope to keep hearing from you on your progress. Merle

Can you determine where it's squirting the oil from? is it from a fitting connection, or is the housing cracked? Also be sure that the gasket in the cover is OK. I could be leaking there and running down the side and running off a spot on the bottom that makes it look like it's coming from there. If your filter canister is like mine, there are brass fittings that screw into the canister with 1/8" NPT (pipe). They are elbow fittings with an inverted (brake line) type fitting for the lines that connect in. Check that the fittings are tight. It's possible that one of the flares has cracked causing the leak, or one of the elbows is cracked. Those are easy fixes. You can make up new lines with brake line, and the fittings can be purchases at most good hardware or auto parts stores. If it turns out that the canister has a crack, your best bet is to search Ebay. I got one for my truck there. I see them pop up from time to time. Good luck, Merle

Here's a shot of the front of my engine with the one piece pulley/hub and the hand crank nut. After I put it on I realized that I needed to pull it back off to get the front mount bracket on. So I got to use my puller again. Granted, this is a truck engine. Did all of the car engines have a damper? Maybe that's why they used a 2 piece hub? Merle

Hey Ken, If you don't have an air impact wrench, you may be able to use a good breaker bar on a socket, and smack it with a hammer to loosen the nut. Then as Ed says, you will need a suitable puller. I've got a nice puller that I'd lend you if you need it. Maybe we could arrange a small work party. I recall that you have some number punches that'll work on my replacement serial # tag? I also have the larger sockets that you would need if you don't have them either. Let me know, Merle

Mine also used the little "C" shaped clips around the perimiter to attach the vinyl to the framework. Merle

I think I almost got none of that. However, I think I did get the "Head Code" he was refering to Loved all the techno babble.

Norm, I saw on the news last night that Wisconsin was looking into the possibility of doing away with emission testing and would be using that money to fund a train system that would run between Milwaukee and Chicago. They say that they aren't really removing any vehicles from the roadways anyway, so some are thinking the testing is a waste of money. Some legislators are really pushing for this train deal and if they can use the emission testing money then they won't be putting the financial burden for the train system onto the tax payers. I don't know why we need a train system to run to Chicago, but if they are going to do it, I'm all for using the emission testing money for it. No more emission tests sounds good to me. The factories are probably polluting the air more that our automobiles anyway. Go test their emissions and leave us alone. Merle

Ok, I stand corrected. I looked at pics of my engine and the oil pump location. It would be driven from the cam. For some reason I was thinking it sat lower and was driven off of the crank. The jumped timing chain would make sense now. Merle

What engine are you running? On my 218 the distributor drives off of the oil pump, which is driven by the crankshaft. So even if the timing chain were to jump a tooth or two, it wouldn't effect the distributor. If you have to turn the distributor to a different location to get your timing light to show TDC, than I'd be checking out the vacuum advance mechanism or the centrifugal advance unit. There's a possibility that something there has gone to full advance or possibly greatly retarded the timing on you. However, the backfire in the carb would suggest a faulty intake valve. Maybe one is sticking partially open. This would allow the combustion to get back into the intake manifold and back up through the carb. That's my thoughts on the subject anyway, Merle

I agree on the moisture getting in regardless. You have to let air in to displace the liquid as DutchEdwin stated. So if there's moisture in the air, it gets into the can. Also, how would you stir the paint? All paints should be stirred before use, and POR-15 says not to use a shaker because it can mix in air bubbles. As for getting pint under the lid... You can get nice pour spouts from POR-15 for a few dollars. They work pretty slick and keep paint out of the lid grove. But I still put plastic under the cap before resealing it. Merle

Last night I began the seat belt install and was having difficulty determining a suitable location to mount the retractor assembly on the driver's side. the fuel fill pipe is right in the way. I dug out my old forum archive disc, when I got home, and found Jim Shepards post regarding his seat belt install. It looks like he has his mounted farther inboard that I was trying. However from that mounting position I wonder how the belts wrap around the seat base frame. Or would the lap belt come through between the frame and the seat cushion? Are you out there Jim? Any pics after mounting the seat in? How's it all work for you? I also found that my seat bottom setion is shot. I didn't look it over good when I took it out. I think the mice living in it corroded out the framework. The seat back is OK, but has a few broken spring. That's fixable. Anyone got a spare seat? Merle

I get it now. I guess I missed that little tidbit of information before.

I'm still confussed. Why would you need to slip the clutch if you're running an auto trans? I understood the term, but wondered why that would be an issue with the 727. Merle

The nose looks like "C" series, but the doors look like 48-50 Pilot-House. Interesting piece. Merle

I found this on one of the documents on POR-15's site, and it's pretty much how I used it when I painted my frame and other parts. Apply POR-15 in thin coats. For Two Coat Application: Apply second coat when first coat is tacky but almost dry. If first coat is fully cured, wet sand first coat with 600 grit sandpaper until gloss is dulled. Next, apply the second coat of POR-15. TOP-COAT APPLICATION OVER POR-15 PRIOR TO FINISH PAINT IF USING PRIMER: After second coat of POR-15 has been applied, wait approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour until the POR-15 coating is tacky; then apply a light dust coat of primer and let dry. Next, apply a full coat of primer and follow normal top-coating procedures. If primer is lacquer-based, apply dust coat only after POR-15 is dry to touch. “Tacky” is `defined in our writings as dry to the touch but with a slight finger-drag remaining." Hope this helps, Merle

That reminds me of a joke that my Dad used to tell. Seems this farmer was trying to get rid of a pest of a cat. First he took it out in the woods, hoping it would wonder off somewhere else, but the next morning there it was, back in the barn. Then he took it into town with him and left it there before returning home. Then next morning, there it was again. Now he's getting mad, so he takes it out back and shoots it. Next morning, it's back in the barn again. Now he's had enough. He takes it our and chops it's head off. The next morning, it's back in the barn, carrying it's head in it's mouth. (I never said it was a funny joke) Merle

I didn't know there were 2 different 4 speed trannies, so I can't help you there. But as far as I know, the 218 and 230 share the same block so it sould be an easy swap. The flywheel mounting may be different, as the 218's genreally have 4 studs, whereas the 230 crank flange has 8 holes. But Since you have the complete setup for the 230 it shouldn't be a problem for you. Good luck Merle

Yup, that's what I have too. Fluid Drive with 4 speed floor shift.

Here you go Bob. Or is it for Bob? Here's a pic of my clutch and brake linkage. And heres a pic showing the shift lever, kind of. Hope this helps. If you need more I can get them, unless you need the internal clutch linkage. I don't think I want to pull the trans back out for that. Merle

I had 16 post on page 7 before this one. I also checked my user preferences and it shows I have 40 posts per page. I don't seem to have a 50/page option. I can do the "default", 5,10,20,30,or 40 per page. Merle