old rat 49

Had to use a lawn chair to sit in and only had parking brake for stopping but I finally drove it arround the block for the first time. Now I am HAPPY !!!!!!!! So much still to do but now I can envision it on the road.

Pulled cover, full of water; drain hole plugged. Tried bumping; didn't work. Depressed clutch and slipped thin paint scraper between clutch disck and flywheel about one inch and it popped loose. Shifts ok in all four gears. HAPPY DAY !!!!! Now if I can only find the right pedal assy to mount my brake booster and be able to stop.

Will pull that pan this morning and take a look. To try and bump it clutch depressed and in gear ? If I pull trans does it comout through the top or underneath ?

Thanks Ed

Disassembled carb and cleaned it good, made new gaskets and put it all back together. It was nasty inside and out. No leaks and fired right up. Only thing I could see wrong with carb is a dried out accelerator pump. Any idea where to find just that ? Serviced and cleaned air filter and oil cap too. Then discovered clutch problems (see other post). Oh well !!!!!!!!!

History; Bought in Feb and shifted ok to get on tow dolly. Backed off of tow dolly and moved to driveway. Has basicaly sat since then. Not driven do to no brakes. Got it running today after disassembly and cleaning of carb. Fired right up. Last week I removed and serviced starter as shaft and gear were stuck. Noticed a lot of rust on flywheel section that I could see through starter mounting hole. While running it today a great deal of rusty water seemed to be coming fron flywheel/clutch housing. Tried to put in gear and clutch is not doing anything. Will not go in any gear with engine running; grinds like crazy. Is there a drain hole on bell housing that rain water has gotten into and can't get out ? Is the clutch more than likely a rusted mess ? Source for clutch and pressure plate ? or about 2 pounds of C4 and a det cap.

Spent the last few days working on wiring. re did gen, coil, etc wires, took the sticky starter appart and got it working good,tried to start after 4 months and went crazy trying to figure out why no spark. Went back to basics and realized points were barely opening. Pulled the radio and clock (not working) and inspected wires under dash and the wires are really in excellent shape. Cleaned dash light sockets and will replace all bulbs. Are there brighter ones ? The high beam indicator light has me puzzled. It is insided a metal cap. Does that come off the base ? And does the three position dash light switch have OFF/LOW/HIGH or LOW/MED/HIGH ? Headlights and tail light wires good but both high beams burnt out. Left side front running light came appart ok right side rusted screws that no screwdriver coud get out. Took an old screwdriver and tack welded to one screw at a time to turn them out. Worked good. All floor patches welded in so I don't have the FLINTSTONES look. Now for a trip to the junkyard to get a brake pedal/booster assy and this thing might even be driveable. I feel like I've accomplished something in the last couple of weeks.

HIJACK: Anyone with a Signal Stat 900. I bought one but it was meant for a Ford Semi and has different color wires. Could someone pop the cover on theirs and tell me with a diagram of position on circuit board where each of the 6 wires go regardless of color. Help would really be appreciated.

My new background:)

Starter gear was stuckon shaft. Freed it up. Will clean, inspect, replace brushes and paint before putting it back in. Haven't taken apart a starter in about 35 years or so. Forgot how easy it is to do. Now we all just run out and replace them. Progress ?

Thanks. I E mailed them this morning. http://www.aandbalternatorandstarters.com/

Starter was hanging up (first time I've started it in 4 months). Shaft was yucky so took it all apart to clean it. Shoild be fine. Noticed the brushes are getting down. It would seem that my car has the 52 or later bendix which seems to be interchangeable. Question is "Are the brushes I need earlier or after 51" My car is a 49 first series (same as 46-48). Service manual covers 46-54 and I don't want to try and find the wrong ones. Also want to go ahead and replace generator brushes. Part numbers/source ? Had this thing 8 months now and might even get to take it down the road soon.

Got it figured out and now the starter just whirs. Removed all cables and will clean all contacts and if that doesn't work I'll pull and inspect starter. Seems like one problem just follows another.

Bought an aftermarket/modern ignition switch just to be operational for right now. It has 3 lugs marked BAT, SOL and IGN. Also has the spring loaded starter function. My P15 has seperate starter switch. Wiring diagram has wires labeled from FUEL GAGE, AMMETER, NEG COIL and one going to flasher if equipped. Where do the 3 wires go on the new switch ? If I want to eliminate the push button starter and just use the new switch do I just run straight from the starter relay to the SOL stud on new switch ? Help please. Real close to driving this beast for the first time.

It was just a rebadged Henry J for Sears in 52. Came with a 4 or 6 cyl engine. The 6 was an L head.

Mino, I too wanted a Birth year 48 and as it urned out my 49 was supposedly built in Dec (which works for me) but became a 49 model even though NC titled it as a 46. The frame number which you may have to wire brush to see will give you an accurate number to work with.

Check out thead "P15 year ?" It may be a First series 49 like mine. Also check out the thread "NC Title" I had lots of fun with mine because the State data base does not include the few 49 P15's.

Figured I'd have to do that. Just hoping for a different answer. LOL

I love the /6 but entirely too much work with too little to gain for these cars. Last pick up had a /6 with the Super 6 intake an 2 barrel etc. Get a donor Dakota or such and put in the V6.

I bought the kit from Charlie and parts from O Reilly and everything works except the axle nut wont allow for cotter pin. It needs about another 16th of an inch. Anyone else run into this problem ?

Any other pictures of our cars in Uniform ? Would like to see Highway Patrol cars from the 40's.

If you don't drive it then why own it ?

Looks perfect behind it. Plan on building another Teardrop (#6) to pull behind mine until I can find the the right old trailer; maybe a 10 foot Shasta or similar. Keep us posted on progress.

Was cutting and grindingand welding on the old wreck on Saturday WITH appropriate safety glasses and still somehow managed to get a nice piece of rusty steel in my eye. After a trip to the ER and removal of a nice sized piece of vintage steel I have decided that safety glasses are not enough. I highly suggest a full face shield. Be careful. It hurts like Hell. Was surprized as to how fast (4 or 5 hours) my eyelid became infected and how badly my cornea was scratched.

Polarity will be an issue for sure. That's fixed easy enough. One way to check these tiny connectors is to use a couple of straight pins in the plug or push the pins through the insulation into the wire just enough to make contact. Then you can touch your meter leads to the pins to get your voltage reading.