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thrashingcows

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Everything posted by thrashingcows

  1. I will keep your generous offer in mind.....and a trip to timmies won't hurt either.
  2. Thanks guys. So now I know what they are for and why they are there, but why would they even be used on my Desoto? You can plainly see, up close, that there were bolts/nuts fastened to those holes. So since the desoto did not have the butterfly hood should there not be a plug, or no hole drilled, just a dimple in that location?
  3. I've been trying to figure out what these holes in the cowl area are for/from? Can't be the horns since they are mounted in the front area to either side of the rad. Not the wiper pivots I don't think. Anyone?
  4. And today I cleaned up the parts on the wire wheel, and honed out the MC. Everything looks great, and should go back together nicely. Will clean and paint everything before re-assembly. Should be the nicest pieces on the car so far.....
  5. After I got the removable floor pan section out last week I also pulled the MC for a clean up and rebuild. Here are a few before pics... And 4 pounds of crud.... And those pinch clips (not sure if that's what they are called) Are a bit of a pain to remove....at least until you figure out an easy way to do it. I used the screw driver on the side opposite to the open pinch end, then hammered it down and out. Took a few whacks to get a bite, but once it bit it only took a couple more hits to get it off.
  6. I was taking a break from pulling the seats apart today and was hanging in the engine bay looking around when I noticed something that didn't look right. Now when I got Fernando it's motor was missing the pistons and rods, and no oil pan. I assumed that it had spun a rod and repairs were started and then the repairs got abandoned and the car pushed out in the field. Well I now know it was much worse then a spun bearing..... Notice the area below the generator mount, the oil pan rail area...something is missing.... And from underneath.... Looks like #1 rod took out the lower part of the block. I wonder what they were doing to cause this. I had hopes of rebuilding the 251 and then re-installing it one day...but I guess it's a boat anchor now. Oh well I'll keep my eyes open for a 265 then.
  7. Hey glad to hear that your making progress. Interior sounds like it should be fun..... Maybe a few pics of your progress as well.
  8. Looking good!! I really like that back seat, and what you've done so far. Guess the fold down armrest is not going to be too wide. Thanks for the continued updates and pics.
  9. Get the Hemi anyways for Garage art, for now...and maybe to put in something down the road?
  10. Looking darn fine!! Thank you for the advice on the hood hinge springs...I'll be removing mine, and re-installing, soon to do the motor swap.
  11. Never tried to free up a motor with it. But I would think that is what I would do. Then bar on the crank to rock it over. Have you pulled the head? The cylinders might need so be cleaned up of surface rust as well.
  12. Been using this method for years...my Grandfather showed me that trick. Although I don't use a washer...just a nut slightly bigger then the broken bolt or stud, then plug weld it up. Then try and remove as soon as it stops glowing. Just recently used it to remove 2 bolts that broke off trying to get my front floor inspection panel off.
  13. I've been using the ATF and Acetone mix lately. This stuff really works!! 50/50 mix and away you go. The only thing I don't like is it separates out quickly so you have to keep shaking it. And since acetone will eat plastic and rubber you will need to use a container with a number 1 or 2 in the arrow triangle. I dismantled my spare master cylinder with this stuff. It had been sitting in water for who knows how long and I didn't think I'd get a single thing loose. Lots of the mix, and a few days to let things sit, and I got it completely disassembled!!
  14. And from another BC boy....Beauty of a car you have there!! Thank you for sharing the pics...and info.
  15. I don't go back as far as some of our well aged members....but back in the early 90's I had started to restore a 68 Coronet convertible. I needed a bunch of sheet metal and stopped by a local yard that specialized in vintage tin. I asked about parts and he said I could go check out a 68 coronet 4dr he had just got in. After looking the car over I went up to the desk and asked how much for the entire car....it was a 383/auto/A/C and rust free....was thinking $1000 or so...guy said $200!! and he would deliver it to my house..... But my brother and I spent many many days going through junkyards....great times and memories.
  16. I good friend of mine lent his truck out to a guy, 78 Chevy 1 ton. It had dual tanks and the guy thought it was a diesel so he filled up the one empty tank with diesel. My friend not wanting to waste the fuel decided to mix it 50/50 with gas. His symptoms were much like you describe....no lasting damage.
  17. Niiiice..... Neighbor wanted big rocks in his front yard. We had the dump truck put them in the middle of the yard. Our wives all said we wouldn't be able to get those into place with out a machine to help. We showed them....and introduced them to the power of leverage.... Glad your engine pull went ...mostly well. I'll be there in a few weeks hopefully.
  18. My thoughts too. I might take one of my beat up and broken radios and just use it as a false face.
  19. Welcome to the Board!! Sounds like you got yourself a real gem. Yes we would all love to see some pics. Great that your getting into these old cars at such a young age. Did you grow up in a car family?
  20. I had not thought that far ahead. Please PM me with info about your adapters. When doing the A833OD swap, going with a small block dodge bellhousing and starter would be preferable for me.
  21. Thanks again for the great info guys.... Since the original 251 in Ol' Fernando is toast.....Seems to be missing a couple things.... I have since picked up a completely rebuilt 228cu-in 25" motor and 3 spd dry clutch set-up. It was rebuilt and only run for break-in and then around the block a few times then the guy decided to "street rod" his 47 Canadian Plymouth. The motor is from a 54 Dodge, and has the 3spd dry clutch system already has a new clutch/plate and throw-out bearing. So I don't need anything really other then to move the bellhousing/rear engine mount forward, shorten the clutch rod, and of course lengthen the drive shaft.
  22. Absolutely gorgeous!! Welcome to the board. I like everything about your car...looks, mechanicals etc. Sounds a lot like what I have planned for my ol' Desoto. More pics please.....
  23. Everyone....I appreciate all your thoughts and comments so far. Another item to consider I guess.... Well I plan on converting the ignition system to 12V as well. I'll be using a complete electronic ignition system from a slant six car, and then converting the dizzy to work on the flathead. So I guess I'll still need to drop the voltage to the ?? If all this is going to cause me a headache, I am more then willing to do a little extra fab work and run the 3 speed dry clutch system. And now that I'm thinking about things....down the road I want to convert to dry clutch 3spd OD, using a mopar A833OD tranny from a 85 dodge pick-up. At that time I will have to move the rear engine mount forward, and possibly fab a true tranny mount as well. So doing the work now might save me a bit down the road...Hmmmm
  24. I've done tons of reading through the archives, and all seem to say they are a pretty stout tranny. I have no problem running the M5, BUT need to know if my 12V conversion will cause any problems with the control relay, solenoids, and other 6V items that are relevant to the proper operation of this tranny? Should I just run a shunt? or voltage reducer on these parts?
  25. Yes I'm making reference to the rear engine/bellhousing mounts. I've measure the distance on the FD and it's about 12.5" from bellhousing/engine mounting flange to center of mounting bolt. The 3spd dry clutch set-up is about 7.25" on the same measurement. Those rivets look formidable to say the least. And I'm not sure how to re-attatch the mount if moved forward. Is the frame thick enough to drill and tap? I would think drilling all the way through to the other side and running long bolts, washers and nuts? But I don't think I would like the look of that.
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