JBNeal

VINTAGEPIC: saw these B-1or2 Dodges at the dealer service department up on the FB

this may or may not help...the #4 bearing oil passage used for the oil psi gauge shown is a problem in practice as the starter might interfere with the elbow in that port. The truck flathead oil psi gauge is tapped into #2 bearing oil passage. The filter shown is the now obsolete and practically extinct disposable canister; some aftermarket replaceable element type housings are plumbed similar, some are plumbed with pressure feeding the canister from the bottom.

How'bout a link to what article you're a-talkin'bout...all I could find was a reference to the article in the process of being written from back in October, nothing since 🤔

VINTAGEPIC: saw these Dodge COE car haulers on the FB

Second on the DeWalt...already have several DeWalt batt.power tools, the 3/8" impact came with a cordless drill, got a coupon from Ace that saved a few bucks on the higher capacity batteries, which are definitely needed when doing heavy work. I thought the impact was gonna be a weenie but it has surprised me with its sustained torque availability with the bigger batteries. As I've had to explain to some ppl about cordless power tools, stuff they bought 10-20yrs ago is now obsolete and is no longer supported. Batt.tech has vastly improved, and imo the quality cordless stuff mostly comes out of the same building in china. They don't want to spend the $$$ on new stuff, but replacement obsolete batteries cost more than these new tool sets they run on special at the hardware stores end of the year...and the new tools are much lighter and more powerful than the obsolete tools. These folks are not reliant on their cordless tools to put food on the table, so eventually their hardheaded whining fades away as they upgrade to stuff that works and they can handle, myself included. I recently bid adieu to my 2000 model Black & Decker cordless drill, as it was coming apart and the batteries were no longer charging. The 1970s Black & Decker corded impact is in semi-retirement as the brush retainers kept popping out. The Dewalt replacements have taken the baton and done nicely, especially when working in tight spaces with low light.

Not being critical of your installation, but I don't reckon that hardline pigtail is required when hooking up to a rubber hose. On truck engines, I have seen oil filter pressure from the oil gallery elbow as shown, and another oil pressure gallery elbow to the left of the distributor, behind the oil filler tube, as the psi source for the oil psi gauge. This hardline angles to the right of the coil bracket, held in place with a simple metal tab that can be fabricated easily.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this dually Dodge plowing streets on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this appliance repair Route Van on the FB

Fram's slogan should be "better than nothing...but not by much!" 🏆

Installing new window channel is a chore akin to a monkey on a football, working in a tight space at awkward viewing angles and by feel. It's been decades since I did this last, so I'm a li'l fuzzy on the details. I was careful in removing the old channel, as it was mostly just a metal skeleton with little remnants of rubber. I'm not sure if what I did was the best way, but it worked, no adhesive needed. This installation method is for doors with vent windows; I reckon full door glass would be similar. •remove access panel and door glass for full access to channel track •lay the rubber in the sun for an hour or so to get it more flexible •install the new metal clip tabs into the door slots: horizontal tabs point towards the door latch, vertical tabs towards the running board [I cheated here a tad by bending the tabs slightly so they were harder to install but less likely to pop out of the door slots] •feed the new channel into door, either through the top or the access hole •place the new rubber end against the vent window rubber and work the channel into the track by squeezing the opening together. I made a working tool out of some scrap plywood panel (about the thickness of the door glass) that was hand-width with a slight curve on the smoothed working edge to seat the channel into the guide evenly. •while one hand is working the channel into the track, the other hand should be holding the remainder, and kinda applying a little pressure against the working direction so that the new rubber does not stretch. •making the turn from horizontal to vertical becomes tricky as ya have to work the rubber in the window opening with one hand while supporting/pushing the remainder through the access hole with the other...gotta take your time here and work by feel. •working the last few vertical inches is totally by feel since both hands are working through the access hole. I think when I was done, the new channel was just shy of the end of the guide...either Roberts shipped me replacement rubber that was a tad shorter than original or I had put so much effort into keeping the replacement from stretching that it bunched up a li'l bit. Getting the replacement seated into the horizontal to vertical curve is critical so that the door glass will close properly. With new window channel installed, the door glass will be tight in the track; this is how I realized that my setting tape was faulty as the glass kept popping out of the regulator channel when the window was rolled down. I do recall re-using some of the original clips as I broke a few of the new ones getting started. Getting that first one installed was a chore, but by the time I got to the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, it was not that hard with the tool I made, so there is a learning curve here.

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this Pilot-House Panel on the FB...that broasted chicken sounds like a meal

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge COE car hauler loaded with jeeps on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this C-3 wrecker on the FB...maybe that racecar driver shopped at Ward's too

smaller engine stands work well on smooth concrete floors with smooth deliberate work applied...rough floors and impatient jerky action are a recipe for disaster as these smaller stands' top heavy nature rears its ugly head. To maximize my hobby budget, I have had to make concessions such as opting for the 1000# engine stand and being careful while using it. On more than one occasion, it meant using the engine hoist to set the flathead block on the 2x4 stand to get some leverage. Neither takes up a lot of space nor costs much and both got the job done. additional information - 2x4 engine stand additional information - flathead engine stand mounting

800# has been discussed as the weight of a complete flathead, so that 2000# stand is way overkill...those things are made for small diesel engines and the like. The 1000# 4-wheeled stand is adequate for the engine rebuilding task...though be mindful that HF may have some chinese quality issues

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this C-3 Dodge dining in town on the FB

The last time I replaced a bolt with a stud, I put flat spots on the threads to limit how deep the stud would go into the non-blind mounting hole...in this case, the flat spots can be as wide as the starter mounting flange. After a near problem on an aluminum casting on a NH TD80D, I used a cutting wheel to cut a groove so I could see if the studs were turning during final nut torque, and in some instances, used a screwdriver to hold the stud in place.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-3 at the service station on the FB

Lost is the Polaroid that captured the softball sized ball of goo that I removed from the oilpan of the '49 that had been parked in The Panhandle/w.OK region for 20yrs...ended up patching a driveway pothole with that gritty gunk.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 on the FB

Terrill Machine up in DeLeon may be able to help...Feltz knows his stuff

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this big B-1or2 oil company truck on the FB

additional information - starter wrench

VINTAGEPIC: saw this '48 Dodge at the service station on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-series loaded with snow at the service station on the FB