JBNeal

Fram's slogan should be "better than nothing...but not by much!" 🏆

Installing new window channel is a chore akin to a monkey on a football, working in a tight space at awkward viewing angles and by feel. It's been decades since I did this last, so I'm a li'l fuzzy on the details. I was careful in removing the old channel, as it was mostly just a metal skeleton with little remnants of rubber. I'm not sure if what I did was the best way, but it worked, no adhesive needed. This installation method is for doors with vent windows; I reckon full door glass would be similar. •remove access panel and door glass for full access to channel track •lay the rubber in the sun for an hour or so to get it more flexible •install the new metal clip tabs into the door slots: horizontal tabs point towards the door latch, vertical tabs towards the running board [I cheated here a tad by bending the tabs slightly so they were harder to install but less likely to pop out of the door slots] •feed the new channel into door, either through the top or the access hole •place the new rubber end against the vent window rubber and work the channel into the track by squeezing the opening together. I made a working tool out of some scrap plywood panel (about the thickness of the door glass) that was hand-width with a slight curve on the smoothed working edge to seat the channel into the guide evenly. •while one hand is working the channel into the track, the other hand should be holding the remainder, and kinda applying a little pressure against the working direction so that the new rubber does not stretch. •making the turn from horizontal to vertical becomes tricky as ya have to work the rubber in the window opening with one hand while supporting/pushing the remainder through the access hole with the other...gotta take your time here and work by feel. •working the last few vertical inches is totally by feel since both hands are working through the access hole. I think when I was done, the new channel was just shy of the end of the guide...either Roberts shipped me replacement rubber that was a tad shorter than original or I had put so much effort into keeping the replacement from stretching that it bunched up a li'l bit. Getting the replacement seated into the horizontal to vertical curve is critical so that the door glass will close properly. With new window channel installed, the door glass will be tight in the track; this is how I realized that my setting tape was faulty as the glass kept popping out of the regulator channel when the window was rolled down. I do recall re-using some of the original clips as I broke a few of the new ones getting started. Getting that first one installed was a chore, but by the time I got to the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, it was not that hard with the tool I made, so there is a learning curve here.

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this Pilot-House Panel on the FB...that broasted chicken sounds like a meal

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge COE car hauler loaded with jeeps on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this C-3 wrecker on the FB...maybe that racecar driver shopped at Ward's too

smaller engine stands work well on smooth concrete floors with smooth deliberate work applied...rough floors and impatient jerky action are a recipe for disaster as these smaller stands' top heavy nature rears its ugly head. To maximize my hobby budget, I have had to make concessions such as opting for the 1000# engine stand and being careful while using it. On more than one occasion, it meant using the engine hoist to set the flathead block on the 2x4 stand to get some leverage. Neither takes up a lot of space nor costs much and both got the job done. additional information - 2x4 engine stand additional information - flathead engine stand mounting

800# has been discussed as the weight of a complete flathead, so that 2000# stand is way overkill...those things are made for small diesel engines and the like. The 1000# 4-wheeled stand is adequate for the engine rebuilding task...though be mindful that HF may have some chinese quality issues

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this C-3 Dodge dining in town on the FB

The last time I replaced a bolt with a stud, I put flat spots on the threads to limit how deep the stud would go into the non-blind mounting hole...in this case, the flat spots can be as wide as the starter mounting flange. After a near problem on an aluminum casting on a NH TD80D, I used a cutting wheel to cut a groove so I could see if the studs were turning during final nut torque, and in some instances, used a screwdriver to hold the stud in place.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-3 at the service station on the FB

Lost is the Polaroid that captured the softball sized ball of goo that I removed from the oilpan of the '49 that had been parked in The Panhandle/w.OK region for 20yrs...ended up patching a driveway pothole with that gritty gunk.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 on the FB

Terrill Machine up in DeLeon may be able to help...Feltz knows his stuff

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this big B-1or2 oil company truck on the FB

additional information - starter wrench

VINTAGEPIC: saw this '48 Dodge at the service station on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-series loaded with snow at the service station on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 Panel on the FB

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 with the Job-Rated bed on the FB

I was reminded about one of the limitations of the foam brush when I had to do the underside of the utility trailer top rail a few days ago. Since I'm still working outside in between chores and passing thunderstorms (and a few EF2s) , I have split the painting into sections so that I'm doing surface prep - prime - top coat in manageable sections. Working on the bulkhead rails, the foam brush worked as usual but when I went overhead, the paint saturated the foam before flowing onto the frame...that kinda got messy as I was working top to bottom, left to right, and the foam was falling off of the handle right as I was finishing up the 1st coat. So on subsequent coats, I opted to do the overhead areas next to last, and the foam brush did not fill up so hunter green didn't run all over my fingers as before. With paint now in the brush, I could put a coat on the flat areas quickly, squeezing out the foam to put the paint on the work area and not wasting a drop.

The front, top and passenger side look like it's a good fixer upper...hope there aren't any unpleasant surprises

Exhibit D

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 parked on the street on the FB

Fram filters...oil, fuel, transmission...had problems with fuel filters leaking on lawn equipment back in the late 90s, then read about oil filters that were basically shoebox cardboard shoved in a can...bought a low mileage '90 Ramcharger at a discount cuz I haggled the dealer on transmission issues, pulled the pan on that Torq-Flite and there's a Fram filter...replaced with Wix and made the adjustments as required and that old buggy came alive, as OD magically reappeared...how they are still in business boggles the mind

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge ambulance from down under on the FB