Dan Hiebert

I had the same issue with the outlet for an oil pressure sending unit on an old Ford engine several years ago. Did the same thing P-12 Tommy did, but with the JB Weld. Same results, no problemo. Unsure how the JB Weld will hold up under anti-freeze and more heat than the side of the block, but it won't hurt anything to try it, or the Liquid Steel.

I think so. The generator completes some of the circuits in the electrical system that may be needed to start and run the car. You can run the car and disconnect the battery and if your generator is good, it will keep running, but it doesn't work the other way. Cars basically run off of the generator or alternator. The battery is just to start the car and keep it running to the next service station if the generator fails.

I thought I had felt a disturbance in the Force Its a crying shame to see whole yards crushed.

I have a 160 degree thermostat in mine. Bought the car when we were living in El Paso, TX and when I went through the engine the first time I installed a 180 first (didn't even have one when I got it). It was so blasted hot all the time the system couldn't catch or keep up with the 180, so I installed a 160, and there it still is, and haven't had a problem since. It has always run right around 160, even once we moved north. It would creep up to around 180 on really hot, still days, or when going up hills, but always tapers off. The car doesn't have a heater, so there's no affect on that (not that there would be much of a difference made with the thermostat setting).

...are no more! The stars and planets aligned just right and everything came together over the weekend. I shouldn't be surprised, but there were no real issues rebuilding the steering box - these cars are such pleasure to work on. I had to shop out extracting the upper bearing race, other than that I was able to use regular shop tools for everything. Its amazing how bad the original had gotten, I didn't fully realize it until I got the rebuilt one back in the car and adjusted. I had a whole 1/16th inch or so free play at the gears, when there's supposed to be none! That translated to a whole lot of slop by the time it got to the wheels, and the previously noted exitement when it came to keeping the car between the ditches. I can only surmise at how it got to that point, most likely a combination of things compounded by time - a long ago accident, improper adjustment and lubricant (don't use grease), and really bad roads the past few years (these northeastern roads have me chasing the hubcaps fairly often). I installed new bushings, seal, and bearings, NOS sector shaft and worm gear w/ shaft. Did the initial bench adjustment per the shop manual, put everything together with appropriate lube, and viola. Now for some fine-tuning and road test (once the salt washes of the road). Follow the golden rule of not tightening the mounting hardware until the whole thing is fitted first - and everything's peachy! Now to tackle the steering wheel with some PC-7. We're really looking forward to more driving adventures in the D-24 (without the unnecessary excitement). See you'uns on the road! (In spirit if not in fact.)

I'll jump in with concurrence. Mine did the same thing for a while (more emphatic the colder it got - in El Paso of all places). Simple removal of the cable core and good lube with LIGHT lubricant does the trick. Check for kinks in the cable housing, too.

The first shoots of the daylillies, daffodyls, and crocus are starting to emerge - through the snow. Western New York, 50 and rain Saturday, two inches of snow Sunday, 40s and rain next couple of days, and snow again on the weekend. The usual late winter / early (very early) spring roller-coaster. Gotta love it!

The cardinals have started singing in western New York (well, not right now, with the most recent winter "storm" upon us).

I truly appreciate good workmanship, enginuity, and attention to detail. I like rods and customs just as much as the next guy, but I wouldn't do it to something I have unless all hopes of keeping it orignial were lost. That's nice work!

"Borth Enterprises" (bfoxhead@aol.com) is parting out a D-24, also. Doesn't list that part per se, but there's probably one on the car.

I think they call that thing the "sun" (not sure of the spelling or pronounciation this far into winter). I hear old wives' tales that it brings warmth and brightness to the land. I think I saw it yesterday - since Lake Erie is finally frozen over and hasn't contributed to the cloud cover for a while.....

Disc brakes are simply safer, I doubt anyone would want to return to the "drums of death". You also should consider just how "desireable" an all original 51 Plymouth is on the market (outside of the purist lobby). A lot of folks wouldn't even know the difference. You'll probably find that if you decide to sell the car, the potential buyer will give you one of those odd looks when you ask if they want the old brake parts. Not that I'm very good at this (I tend to keep things I'll probably never need), but I'd offer the old parts either for sale, trade, or just for someone to take off my hands. If in good condition, just those drums, (despite my previous comment), are getting hard to find and can fetch enough to make other improvements to your car.

Now THAT is an example of what wouldn't qualify for antique auto insurance.....

Uh-oh. My car does not have that triangular plate on the outside of the frame, either. I think I see a pattern here.

The saga continues. Found a Sector Shaft, and lo and behold once I got it in my grubby hands I found someplace that lists them cheaper. Never fails. The worm gear is indeed totally kaput as well, have yet to find that part. Shops list them but don't have any vs. places that may have them but don't list them. I guess finding the stuff is half the fun I haven't tried any rebuilders, yet. This all leads to a question for the esteemed members of this forum - AB lists steering box insulators, these go between the box and frame - inner and outer. My car did not have anything like this, but I can't say it hadn't been monkeyed with in its previous life. Are these necessary, as in the lack of them may have hastened the demise of my steering box? I suspect a domino of things led up to this situation, an accident the car was in (probably before I was born ), the wrong lubricant, improper adjustment, and poor roads in various States of the Union.

I've been with J.C. Taylor from "the beginning". The D-24 has a $7,500 agreed value, and the Terraplane has $6,000. (I try to be realistic with this stuff, but I imagine I'd get bit in the rear if, heaven forbid, I ever had to actually replace one of them.) $182 premium for both cars. I've looked around a bit but all companies seem to be in the same range, I think most of these companies are underwritten by the same major insurers anyway.

I wrapped what seemed like a half-mile of barbed wire around the driveshaft of my Service Bronco several years ago in the desert above Ft. Hancock, TX. In the middle of nowhere, not enough units working to call for help (all they woulda done would be to "supervise" and make off-color comments, anyway). All I had to remove it with was a Leatherman tool and a handy list of expletives. The underside of that Bronco being the only shade for miles enticed a couple rattlesnakes to come oberve and make their own comments in their unique fashion. After a few hours and "weaving a tapestry of obscenities that still hangs over the area to this day", (which also seemed to chase the aforementioned snakes away, they're probably still in therapy), I happily, and very "dirty-ly" went about the rest of my day.

Well, got the steering sector shaft in from AM Obsolete (formerly Mitchell Motor Parts). A little long in the wait, but I figure they're not as used to the snow down in Georgia like we'uns here in New York. Just as described, so I'd recommend them. Now comes the fun part, regardless of how much insulation I have in that garage, it doesn't make much difference in this -10 weather, I'm generally happy to keep the garage above 40 or so when its this cold. At least it'll warm up to near freezing over the next couple days (you guys down southwest can quit laughing any time now ). Looking forward to getting this installed and getting the Dodge out on the road come spring - with a little less excitement in keeping it between the ditches. I'm just going to do a straight forward parts replacement (followed by an alignment), but if anyone has any tips or has had any pot-holes to avoid, it'd be greatly appreciated.

Excellent find and a good deal, to boot! You'll like the Terraplane, I've got a 1937 Terraplane sedan, too. Hudson built good cars with many cool innovations like mechanical back-up brakes, vacuum clutch, and the "electric hand". (last two were options) Alas, you are right about one thing, its also a distraction from its stablemates, but an acceptable one. Check out the Hudson-Essex-Terraplane (H-E-T) club. Good resources and they have a chapter in Australia.

I put an overflow tank in my D-24 when we were in El Paso, TX many moons ago, after we had the car for a year or two. Didn't like the coolant overflowing onto the driveway. Just used a generic one from Pep Boys. The car has never overheated, and never lost coolant while running, but after driving around in the good ole southwest climate it would overflow after parking and turning the car off - no airflow or circulation to dissipate the heat. Sometimes it would be hot enough in Texas or New Mexico that it would overflow just parked in the driveway if I had topped it off recently. Funny, since moving to Michigan and New York, haven't had that problem:rolleyes:

Mine did the exact same thing for a while, and I was just as stumped. After a while the coolant discolored the paint on the engine so I could track it down to the thermostat housing. I ended up truing-up the base of the housing (light filing), using slightly thicker gasket material, and sealing the bolts that hold the gasket on. No more problems (with that anyway) for 15 or so years now.

Last couple of times my car did that was because one of the brake return springs (that were on the car when I bought it) broke. I got tired of that and completely redid the brakes a couple years ago with parts from Kanter. They're kind of proud of their stuff, but it always works.

I imagine minute changes in parts prompting PN changes is good for the manufacturer to track down problem areas - but it sure doesn't make it easy for us consumers to find the right number. I was successful in finding a sector shaft, thanks to the help from this forum. For all intents and purposes, there were only two available nationwide (other than salvage). Of course, if I continue to look I'll probably either find one cheaper, or find a whole serviceable steering box that is cheaper as well - that's usually the nature of things. BUT, at least it won't be so exciting keeping the ol' Dodge between the ditches

The more info I have, the easier it will be. I imagine theories abound for just why the same part will have several numbers. Thanks for the additional numbers!

Thankee kindly. Once again this forum saves the day!