PatS....

In this city there are people who drive on the left. Worst drivers in the world here, that's for sure.

What's wrong with wearing a thong????

I think it's great you have stuck with it this far...I think your patience will be nicely rewarded when the bugs are ironed out. It's a beautiful car and will be worth the aggravation.

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/latches_plus.html http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/bearclaw1.html

One thing I haven't really paid much attention to is the differences in steering wheels from then to now. Besides being smaller, mostly because of power steering, they are much more flexible. I can grab a modern wheel rim and move it in and out a couple of inches or more. The one on the 49 Chrysler is solid as a rock. Which one would I want my noggin to hit at even 20 mph? Will I change mine? I don't know yet because it's one of the things I love about the old cars. Sure makes you think though. I'm going to look into some street rod aftermarker door latches to see what's involved in updating that part. I really want the doors to stay closed in case of a collision. Too bad because I really like the sound of the Mopar door closing very unique. The 49 has the beginings of the manufacturers thinking of safety with the padded dash and the floppy window winders but it still leaves alot undone.

If I recall there is a PDF pattern to make your own on the main page of this site.

Welcome to the forum. The fact that there is a "torque converter" on the car means you have a "Fluid Drive" car. The fact that there are no wires on the carb mean that the car likely came with a standard 3 speed column shift transmission. The simplest solution is to find a regular 3 speed standard shift Mopar transmission for that era of car. The fluid coupling can remain in place and the regular standard transmission bolts on behind it as normal. The only thing you will notice while driving the car afterwards id that the clutch can be let out without the car stalling As far as I know big Dodge, Chrysler Royal and base model DeSoto's 49-50 standards will fit. There may be other years that will fit as well. These cars also had the M-6 but I don't think you would be happy with that and it's not entirely a bolt in as a 3 speed would be.

The fact that those pics were a wake up call is very true, and we should update as many of the safety features as we reasonably can, but we still can't lose sight of the fact that despite the many safety features of modern cars, there are still hundreds of times a day which offer new opportunities for updated pictures similar to the ones posted. Hundreds of people still die daily in North America in tragic car accidents. We have to keep things in perspective or we wouldn't leave the house.

These articles may help...PlyDo's kit is very similar to Charlie's (PlyDo is in limbo since the owner passed away recently.) http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=52&SID=16 http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/135_0501_1951_plymouth_suburban_wagon/index.html Don C. also did a great job of documenting his disc conversion and has a link in his posts

I could have re-used the king-pins, for that matter the rest of the front end parts could have been re-used. I did save the old stuff. (Like I don't have enough stuff around that is too good to throw out but that I'm unlikely to ever use ) I just thought that I don't know anything about what shape anything's in and I have it all apart and don't want to take it all apart again so I'll replace everything and it's done.

Gruesome, sure makes you think. My original front seat is going into the dumpster in favor of one with a latched back (2 door car), it will be mounted more securely to the floor and it's for sure getting seat/shoulder belts. I have long been wondering about the steering column, but wanting to retain the Fluid Drive means also retaining the column shift so I'm not sure how to go about engineering a collapsible section in the original column or if a newer one can be adapted to retain the column shift. It's sure something to think about and do if it's feasible. You can't prevent everything and what's gonna happen will happen but if a modification can be done during the build stage, I think it should be done. These pictures point out also that the doors on the old cars don't stay closed like the newer ones.

Maybe the price includes a CAR!!!!

I just need to make a donation, haven't made one this year I don't think and I like to do 2 a year...better get at it. Great place you have here GTK!!!! Thanks!!!!

Nice color combo, nice stance...nice car. You done good!!!!!

For a little extra, if you send Charlie your spindles, he will drill and tap them for you...hell of a deal.

Allan, maybe you should take Charlie up on the disc kit. It's about the same price as going through the originals and, IMHO, less trouble when they're installed.

Maybe a Stealers Wheel would make sanding easier!!!!!

Unfortunately BJ seems to set an artificial benchmark in the stratosphere for literally every old car or parts thereof. From the top quality show winner to the completely rusted and stripped hulk, they all seem to think their vehicles are worth millions:eek: They think if the 55 Chevy convertible loaded with every conceivable option and in better than perfect shape went for a billion bucks, then their clapped out 4 door wagon that looks like Tim Taylor dropped an I beam on is worth half that. "These are worth a fortune restored you know" No, they aren't but dream on. (not speaking of you or your truck at all, Howard!!!!, just the hobby in general after a few televised BJ auctions)

Barret-Jackson makes millions and has access to the most uniqe, rarest and nicest vehicles on the planet. It makes no sense to risk it all for a project truck from a defunct tv show that only car guys would remember. Not saying something fishy didn't happen but I can't see B-J being involved OR having a secret warehouse. It is IMPOSSIBLE to keep a secret like a warehouse full of auction shill buys these days...impossible.

The article says it served the the lodge in Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. That would likely make it a special order Canadian car, where they may have ordered those things different. The lodge was a high class joint so maybe they ordered a high class car rather than bone stock? I know the rubber mats were different on my Canadian 49 Chrysler and the US version.

Looking good, Allan. Before ;( After

Looks great to me!!!

I cobbled these two "tools" together out of bolts, nuts and washes I had laying around to get and maintain the spread while torquing the bushings to factory specs. They worked quite well:

Allan, a small press is better to separate the tie rods now that the assembly is off the car. Top and bottom bushing (19 and 48) have to be removed to separate the steering knuckle (23) from the control arms. 5,13,32 and 58 have to be removed to separate the control arms from the upper control arm pivot bar (2)Lower is (30)...(5,13,32 and 58 are bushings) Before disassembling, measure the control arms where the bushing goes and record this measurement to ensure the same spread when re-assembling. Hope this helps. Pat

This one, similar, has been for sale locally for $2000 for quite a while. Canadian Dodge, so different from your Dodges but as far as value goes should be similar. More pics and details: http://www.edsprojectcars.com/project_cars_for_sale.htm