PatS....

You have to move the jumper pins on the back of the old hard drive to make it into a slave. I did the same with mine and it works fine. If it's marked as a slave, the OS on the slave is ignored. I'll have to do something with the slave soon though, it's about 9 yrs old...likely to calf at any time. The external HD seems like a good option.

I notice the bids are coming in hot and heavy on this one!!!! :rolleyes: (not one bid, 2 days to go, seller has very good feedback though)) Makes you wonder about how long allowing people to perform major modifications will last with crap like this hitting the roads. You would think that making it square and even would be basic but they just kept on building, maybe no one will notice? It's only an inch and a half, it'll be OK I wonder how the welds are. Notice the rear end isn't centered either!!! Scary stuff.

Thanks Greg. I don't bring it up because, like Michael J Fox said we all have our bag of hammers...this is just mine. Not complaining, it could be worse, just have to work around it. I force a 1 mile steady walk very day, without that I would be screwed. Air tools don't help because my fingers can't press the trigger. I can still do the one finger salute though!! But it is slowly getting better...50% better than a year ago.

Ha..no Dodging. It's been sitting for a year. I haven't the strength to do much of anything...I tinker with the D300 because it's here, as is the 56 Rambler, the 49 is about 10 minutes away. Diabetic Neuropathy, after 26 yrs affects the nerves in my arms...no strength. Took doctors some time to figure it out. Too bad they can't just hook up a code reader to my a$$ So, the 49 Chrysler is on the back burner...for a while. Talk about an armchair project!!!! The 62 D300 and the Rambler will be sold but not until they are running/driving and the economy is better. They are worth more and easier to sell running/driving. It was stupid to get them in the first place.

Rhino was invented to be used on the huge Euclid-type trucks used in mining. They would wear through the floor of a box in a year...expensive. A thick coat of Rhino when new, and when it wore down, a one day respray was all that was needed. No more box floor replacements. The spray in truck box liner was born. Rhino is the original, the rest are knock-offs. The name is appropriate. It's tough stuff. The texture can be manipulated by different sprayer settings. Brake fluid nor battery acid will affect the Rhino. Great for battery trays.

Here's what a brake master cylinder looks like Rhinoed. Prep was just soap and water wash and Rhino primer for insurance. Mask and wire tape on the openings. The 4 mounting holes will need to be drilled back to size as well. Spray gun adjustment gives the smooth shiney surface. Cost was about $25. Brake fluid won't affect the Rhino one bit. This is for my 62 Dodge D300, the 49 Chrysler's will be done as well considering the harsh location it lives in.

Glad you got in before any problems. Take care of yourself. Google "Dr Dean Ornish", he has a great regimen that's been proven to reverse heart disease.

If it's the original engine, it's the IHC "Green Diamond" flathead which was IHC's own engine not shared with any other make. http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php http://www.oldihc.org/ The Model designation of "your" IHC is a "KB"

I think it would be easier with 3 or 4 people rather than a hoist. It's not that heavy but it sure is awkward and floppy. Take the tires off before the lift so you don't have to lift over them.

The price is right, but no telling what's under that "patina". You can't really lose if you have a spot for it.

Welcome! Here are some scans from my 49 Canadian Shop Manual. Hope they help a bit.

What if it was made from a classic Mopar "parking brake"? Would it be "stock" then???

That Hoarders show is pretty shocking. I'm surely a hoarder but light years away from those folks. My hoard looks disorganized but not like the city land fill! I have seen such places years ago when I did dump runs on weekends...good money in them if you can do it. I can't anymore. My neighbor from a few years ago was a bad hoarder. He sent his 10 yr old son into the garage to fetch a tool he needed. The boy moved something to get at the tool and a whole shelving unit collapsed onto him. He was cut up and banged up pretty bad...enough to be in hospital for 4 days. Ended up with a bad scat above his eye. I was hired to take the hoard to the dump while the boy was in hospital...neighbor was cured instantly of hoarding. I think there are a couple of things to consider. One is what are the chances you'll have to move in the next couple of years. That's a good reason to keep the hoard down a bit...or alot! Do you have the room? If your nice heated double garage becomes so over run that it's just a very nice, expensive storage shed that you cannot work in anymore, then it may be time to cull the hoard a bit. Can you find the thing you need when you need it? Sometimes we know we have a certain item and spend hours looking and then go buy it...for $1.95 Maybe a cull and some organization is in order. BUT, if you have the room, aren't likely to move, and don't care if you can find it when you need it...hoard away and let the heirs clean it up!!!:p

I've been hunting for my brand new cordless drill for a year. I have both batteries, the charger and the case. I used the drill ONCE and have not seen it since. CRS disease for sure!!!

Nicely Done!

George Barris, Gene Winfield and Bill Hines all in one spot along with some great cars...talk about some eye candy! How did they get the snow all shovelled so nicely??? I did mine today and I can still see some! Thanks for the visit.

So they shouldn't be on the front??? Or are all six the same??

My 1965 Dodge D300 has these type rims. I was remounting them onto the truck the other day and noticed that the bolt holes are odd. Some are innies and some are outies as per your pics. I've never seen that before. Does anyone know the purpose of this oddity???? I was told by a big truck tire shop that tubeless rims with this bolt pattern were available new for about $150(Can). He said I would have to order them and they could be here from their warehouse next day.

Hey, Harvey, here's to a speedy uneventful recovery!!!!

Greg, I'm guessing the fact that the fluid is going IN via the fluid return route that there would be little or no resistance but I can't be sure. I only used the height and about a quart of fluid in the reservoir (an old clean plastic soda bottle) then returned the excess to the brake fluid container. I like this method because once built there are no tools or help required and the air is chased right out the master cylinder. As long as the bleeder screw threads are coated, there is no air in the system once the bubbles in the master stop.

I made up a reverse bleeder similar to this one to bleed the slave cylinder on my 62 Dodge truck. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/brakes/bleeder/bleeder.htm There was a bit of running around and scavenging my misc parts bin, but I managed to get it done. The lamp base nut was the hardest item to find. Home Depot has everything else in the Watts section of plumbing. Camera died so no pics. The truck is a flat deck with stake pockets, so I hung the reservoir from an 8 foot 2X4 in the stake pocket. Slid the tubing over the bleeder after using some teflon tape on the threads, turned the needle valve and watched the fluid slowly push the air out the master cylinder. Used the turkey baster to remove a bit of fluid then let it fill up, turned off the fluid flow and it was done. Put the cap back on and the clutch works perfectly. For someone working alone, this is perfect, and ridiculously easy once you have the thing built. Brake master cylinder is next so will have to bleed the brakes then. I'll report on how that works then. From the above website: Some items you will need: 1.) A typical 16 or 20 oz water bottle, clean and dry. 2.) A 3/16" Brass Hose Barb from the hardware store (with 1/8" pipe threads on the back end). 3.) A 1/2" brass Lamp base nut (listed with 1/8" ISP threads (to secure the hose barb with.) 4.) Two used banjo crush washers (these are a perfect size, but other washers will work. 5.) 6 feet of 3/16" inside diameter clear tubing. 6.) (Optional) 1/4" outside brass needle valve. 7.) A roll of Duct tape and a Coat Hangar or rope for suspending the bottle. 8.) Turkey baster (for removing excess fluid from reservoir. 9.) Some Teflon plumber's tape for sealing the bleeder valve threads. Take your bleeder screw with you to make sure you get the right size tubing...don't just go by this list...it's for motorcycles.

Looks very nice!!! Now you have to wipe up that thumb print

Awesome, is the only word. Seems the mans wife is VERY involved. http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Wingrove.htm Now that's a recession-proof job if there ever was one.

Well, you learn something every day. I had never heard of suphation before today...sheltered life I guess. Good stuff to know for maintaining a battery on a vehicle being stored for the winter. I knew they went dead and usually were junk but I didn't know the technical explanation of why. How Does Sulfation Drain a Battery?http://www.wisegeek.com/how-does-sulfation-drain-a-battery.htm

Norm, welcome back! For storage, I've found that a private garage nearby is cheaper by far and safer by far. Check the classifieds and a local Realtor for leads. Some elderly people have empty garages just sitting empty. Put up a note at the seniors center as well.