PatS....

So, a remote to turn the power off and on to the garage door opener? That sounds like the answer. Then I can barricade the little door again. Thanks:)

I didn't use one because it was one place where I wanted the "feel" of it. By hand, if somethings not quite right you'll likely notice it, but if you put the power to it you might screw it up. Besides, I need the extra workout But if you're comfortable using the air, by all means go for it.

The breathing kind of security would be difficult because sometimes I don't go there for a few days. He may get a bit cranky and skinny Never had any signs of attempted unauthorized access, but I leave one flourescent light on near the rear door so light shines through the cracks and the radio is on 24/7. Makes 'em think someone may be in there working. All that is moot if I leave the door wide open!!! DOH!! Right after I got over that AIDS thing, this Alzheimers starts up!!

The instructions show "dimension Z" meaning that they should be centered to within 1/32 of each other so later wheel alignment is possible. The homemade tool helped alot in that area because once the bushing bar was centered, I could tighten up the bolts that go through 2 of the bushing pin bolt holes, and it would stay centered while tightening/torquing the big bushing "nuts". So, there is no specific measurement as long as the bar is centered.

Had a day off on Wednesday, so I went to the garage to get some projects done. I have been renting for about 5 yrs now. When I first got the garage I was 2 blocks away. Now I am 10 km away! I worked until about 3:30 Wednesday and then headed home so I would miss the horrendous traffic we have here. A buddy then called to ask if I could "help him" change front brake pads on his mini-van. I told him it would have to be after 9pm. That was OK. At about ten to 9, he calls my cell to ask where I am...I say about 5 blocks away, why? "Well, I was just wondering how you got the garage door open when you're not here. But I am parked in your garage" My heart sunk. It has a remote control door opener. Did I go away and leave it open? Did a dog scratchin his ba!!s make the right static to open it? I always wait until it closes before I go in case it just hits bottom and opens again, but I can't recall this specific day!! So, it's very likely the 16X9 foot door was open and me on the other side of town for 6 hours! If my buddy had not called to do the brakes, it would have sat open all night and well into Thursday. A very frightening thought. So, the opener is now disconnected, door is bolted and barred and I will use the man-door. I had it barricaded from the inside because it's a bit secluded and the big door is well lit. Time to rethink the security there. How do you guys handle keeping out the bad guys? (besides making sure the door is closed in the first place? )

The set of instructions posted apply to both upper and lower contol arms. The same procedures are followed for both.

"Lots of hours.. for stuff no one will know, except me." Isn't that who we build 'em for? If others like 'em that's good too.

Congrats on the milestone, Tim!!! What's left?

I have coffee on some mornings with a former cop who just turned 80. He owns two bikes and rides every day. He says he is the oldest licensed motorcycle rider in Alberta and I believe him. He thinks he will meet his maker while on a bike and is quite at peace with the prospect. He's just hoping that it won't be this week!!! Like Woody Allen says "I'm not afraid of death, I just don't want to be there when it happens."

That was just great...thanks. Then there is this one too: These things have come a long way from the days of rubber bands!!!!

That's just terrible, Fred. My condolences to his family and his co-workers. That's way to young.

As far as the sliding goes, one mechanic told me that GM used a special coating on the caliper bolt for sliding and the bolts should be replaced if rusty and not just wire wheeled clean. Not sure if that applies to other makers or not. I used high heat lube on my Pontiac caliper bolts and they still stuck and wore on one side only. The brakes still outlasted the car...RIP

What kind of van? As far as rotors go, make sure you get domestic and not offshore made rotors. Every offshore rotor I've had has heatscored within a very short time and had to be replaced again $$$$$$ For pads, I always get a name brand like Raybestos which are usually mid-grade. I use a large C-clamp to slowly squeeze the piston back into the caliper to make room for the new pads. Make sure the c-clamp is centered on the piston. Pat

Thanks Norm. I'm going to be switching the front motor mount this week which of course involves removing the timing chain cover. I always bag and tag bolts because of my horrendous memory, but I never would have thought to mark them as to the hole they came out of. You probably saved me from the same situation. Thanks. What's the best way to center the cover without the special tool? Thanks again Pat

This pic is of my old 251 that came out of the Chrysler. I popped the frost plug out so you could see it better. The engine is upside down on a dolly, but the best I could do. The other two are not frost plugs. I checked with the center punch just to be sure

Beautiful engine and car...UH...where do you park it at night? Can you tell me about the front crank pulley? What is it and how did it go on?

Tim, she looks like she's gonna fall over and have a nap, not settle a score, unless she has a beef with the water bucket

Poly-filla should fix that baby right up

When I order my Roller, I will order the optional "Gaines Wood" front end. Looks more Roller-like.

For all the trouble it is, I would pull the head. That will tell you almost everything you need to know. My engine had a broken valve (and a mouse nest in the oil pan).

It's a really amazing car. Here's a gallery: http://www.autoblog.com/photos/rolls-royce-phantom-drophead-coupe/119389/

Looking real good, Chet. I enjoy the updates alot...thanks

Bump^^^ for new menbers.

If you plan to use it to haul stuff...do nothing...just leave it. They were never meant to have a finish and unless you do all 4 sides of each plank, it will peel. Oil will collect dirt and get all over your hands and clothing if you use it to haul and have to get in and out. From an old trucker

A proportioning valve is supposed to cause the rear brakes to come on a bit before the front to help eliminate "dive", so that might not be a solution. In the old days on large trucks with air brakes there was a valve that you could flip to cut the air to the front brakes in half in order to maintain steering control while braking in winter. Not sure how that would be achieved with juice brakes. Have you considered disc's for the front?