greg g

Looks like nice stuff, quick also. I ordered som phenolic spacers from Tom when I did my installation, I believe I had them in 2 or three days also. He good to deal with. Sooooooo.....whadareya gonna doo with your current linkage form George????? If you have no plans, I am interested, as my cobbled hardware store stuff needs an upgrade.

I believe the wheels on his early Plymouth resist mounting on a dynamic machine.

I got Wheel vintiques ( model 20 smoothies if I remember correctly) 5 X15 wiht a 3 1/2 inch back space. They were unpainted. Got them from Summit for 37 buck each. I can't see any reason why they would not accept the full wheel cover. I have trim rings with a similar mounting style and they have stayed with me for 3 years.

Whatever you use, don't over torque them. The tapered nuts and beveled washers being different metals were made to allow for movement of the manifolds against the block as they go through heating and cooling cycles. I think I read somewhere that it was 18 and 20 lb ft.

I had a friend in highschool who had two areas of interest. Drag Racing and Hi Fi (see how old I am) he was one of the first people I ever knew with a reel to reel tape recorder/ player. He also had some sophisticated recording equipment for the day. He would set up the recording equipment at the starting line of the Drag Strip and record the races a he spectated. He then would rerecord the tapes based on classes and engine sounds. Now at the time he was driving a 59 Rambler Classic 4 door with a 6 auto. So he installed a tape player, amplifier in the car and a couple of speakers up under the front wheel wells. Well on friday and sat nights when we went cruising, he would, when some hot car pulled up next to him, turn on the tapes and play amplified dragster engine sounds out of the wheel wells of his Rambler. Most everybody backed down when the light turned green.......

Ours got named Kate because my wife thinks she soundsl like Kathrine Hepburn's quavery voice and laugh. Leeeaave Meeeeeee Alllonnne, Don't Tuuuurrrrnn thhhhat Keeeyyy. OK then weeeeellllll gooooooo. My father in law had a 76 Ford LTD II we dubbed the Edmund Fitgerald, because it was a barge and it felt as thouugh the rudder was parted from the wheel. its response to steering inputs were very very vague. Perhaps the Titanic would have suited better, but there was that Gordon Lightfoot song out at about that time.

I wonder if it had something to do with the difference between fluid drive and non fluid drive on the 230. My early p15 218 has a damper, the 56 230 which was conected to a standard had a damper. Perhaps the fluid drive cars didn't have them as the fluid mass would tend to soak up crank vibrations???? Just a guess.

The Drag strip in Savana, NY reopened last year. This 8th mile strip was the site of the Nostalgia Drags similar to and populated by some HAMBers. Haven't heard the schedule for this year but supposidly monthly form may to October.

ESTA Safety Park Drag Strip is still operating in Cicero, NY. This track has been in continuous operation since 1961 or 2. I believe Eastern States Timing Association is what the Acronym stands for. http://www.estadrags.com/

46 deluxe business coupe. Stock Body and nearly stock interior. after market wheels with radials, 56 230 engine, dual carbs on fenton intake. .030 over, .040 off the head .010 off the block, single 2 in id exhaust,through turbo flow thrush. Three on the tree and 4.11 rear end.

Yea on the Yahoo pic page, they just sit there, can't drag and drop with either mouse button. There is a small box for selecting individual or groups but then I get no choices.

are you using a newer version of yahoo? mine is the old one.

no tray no edit button......just photo with check all clear all options.

Anybody know how to delete photos from Yahoo My Photos??? I got some build up and I don't see a way to manage them.

That is the circuitry that the 7 wire signal switch addresses. The Taillight king website has schematics for both the 6 wire and seven wire setups.

They make up for the difference between the straight back of the heater and the angle of the foot well. They can probably be duplicated with a wooden wedge with a proper sized hole for the conectors which pass through the firewall.

Gerhard, You might wanna put some electrical tape over your License Plate. If the tape goes public, sure it wouldn't be hard to track down a 47 Dodge and a 53 Ford, even without plate numbers showing, but with the plate blanked off you will at least have plausible deniability. Put on some Groucho glasses also...........

Carefull Chet, stuff like that will get you kicked out. The moderators will likely pull it when they wake up, or if it starts going opposite of the board's myopic view. Alot of discussion overheard at the Vermont show was that the group is having trouble attacting new members, and the old members are consistantly checking out celestially (passing away) just seems a matter of time before the light might be on but nobody will be home. I joined two years ago in order to participate in the event in Vermont. I found the folks helpful and friendly, even though I have a Modified car, however, the closest local chapters are Colonial 3+ hours to Mass, Long Island, 5+hours through NYC, Delaware Valley 4+ hours to Northern NJ/Del and the Mid altlantic 5+hours to MD. So there is no local activity of the POC here abouts, so the only benefit I get is the Bulletin and a 5 dollar discount on my insurance. I find the POC forum helpfull occasionally but the traffic there is light. It is also strange that you can get to the POC forum from the POC home page, but you can't get to the POC home page from the forum (I might be missing something but I looked and didn't find a link)

Find an automotive machine shop not a parts store, and have them order these for you. The 25 in the part number is the box count, I was able to buy 21 through my machine shop. As mentioned I believe they should be less than $1.00 ea, and they have the shoulder under the head like the stock ones. The second pic shows that they are nearly identical to the stock ones, I hair longer but no issues, the one on the left is the grade 8 with no shoulder and slightly shorter and a smaller head.

sooooooo 0 to 53 in 18 seconds?????

It has always been my contentions that driving a slow car fast, is much more fun than driving a fast car slow. Imagine that drag racing, without raising the ire of the local constabulary. Speed contest???? Officer, are you being a bit oxymoronic??? After all these cars are inline 6's....surely you must be mistaken....

Yer showing yer age if they still called it Typing Class and it was for girls in the business (read secretarilal studies) classes (yea it's what I took also) nowadays students take Keyboarding, abit more gender friendly isn't it???

If you have signal lamps, you would have to rewire the signal circuit if you want to run the brake lamps through them also. You do have a good start to running three brake lamps as if you have signals, you have dual filimant lamps in the fender lights. I have rewired mine to three brake lamps and run accessory signals, leaving the signal wiring alone. I got some signal stalks from a motorcycle and mounted them on fabed brackets mounted to the bumper mounts. As to the wiring, you can simply tap the brake lamp connection in the trunk and wire them into the bright filaments on the fender mounts. Then I ran the wires that were for the signals to the auxiliary lamps. I am running 6 V also. The stock configuration was center stop lamp only till 1950 I believe, and the side lights were running lamps only. Most signal lamps till 48 or so were dealer or owner installed after market items. [/img]

I used grade 8's with washers. It did not seem to cause any problems. Ran the motor that way for 2 years. I would suggest that you clean the threads in the block before installing the new bolts. You can do this with a bottle brush or you can use an old bolt as a thread chaser. If you have a dremel or a die grinder, you can cut a vertical notch or two along the threads. then run the bolt into and out of the hole with some solvent. The slots will give the gunk some place to go as it is dislodged. Do this in the same manner you would with a tap, couple turns in one turn out till it bottoms out, then back it out. Three improtant points when reinstalling the head. You need to follow the proper tightening sequence, do the sequence in increments to the torque spec is met, then retorque after a run up to temp. Also the manual calls for the new gasket to be installed dry, or wet depending on which manual you have..... I did mine dry, again no problem.

hy drive or powerflite?