Robert Horne
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Everything posted by Robert Horne
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These TK5s, 5 speeds, are from 1983 to 1987 Rangers. Some Mazdas have them also, but I do not know what years. The Rangers have a 4 speed also. I believe the gearing is same as the 5 speeds, with the first 4 gears. So far installation has not been too difficult...
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Recently my Coupe stalled in the driveway. The rotor button tip looked very bad. A little sandpaper to the tip, and car started right up. I keep a little test light, sandpaper, etc, in the glove box, and now, with a spare rotor button.
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The rear drums on my Coupe are out of round. The machinist cut them down 2 times, but they are still out of round a little. I will have to go through my collection, see if I have any any better condition, until I find an Explorer rearend. I installed a Ford master cylinder to replace my 86 Dodge MC that I had been using many years. The big Ford MC, 1 1/8, is easier to see the fluid, and easier to fill.
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So far so good on the trans install. Still looking for a Explorer rearend, but for now, I will use the stock rearend for a test. I cut down a Ranger driveshaft to 41" for the test. A Explorer 2dr, 2WD driveshaft is 41", when I can find one. You may need a longer driveshaft though.
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The T5s came in alot of different vehicles from S10s, Mustangs, Camaros, etc. They have a number like, 1352-057, 1352-058, etc. Some have the shifter in the rear of the trans, some are close to the center of the trans. 1st gear can range from 2.95 to 4.03.... I am working on a project, "5speed-non T5" right now. 1983 to 1987 Ranger TK5-toyo Kogyo transmission. So far now, not too much modifications. The shifter is toward the rear, but not as far as some of the T5s .
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I bought my new rubber parts from Steele Rubber Company of N.C. The parts were of high quality, not difficult to install. I installed all new windows, no leaks, looks great... 1938 Coupe,,,,Bob...
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I modified the lower mount bracket, (blue now), I made from angle iron, 1" X 2 1/2", should have used 1" x 1". the 2 1/2 was bumping the 38 trans mount. I cut out about 5 inchs of the lower part of the tunnel to raise the trans up and into the bell housing. I ended up cutting about 4 inch of the top part of the tunnel, (red piece), also to get the trans to go in. I should have just cut the top part out, and dropped the trans in from the top, next time..
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I ground and knocked out the rivets on my 38 years ago. Even with an industrial puller, the drum would not come off without damage to the drum.
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Long/short block flatty trans mounts?
Robert Horne replied to 40P10touring sedan's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The radiator you mentioned on ebay, have very other radiators available that may be a good choice for your upgrades.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-1952-Plymouth-Cars-Champion-Cooling-Systems-3-Row-Alum-Radiator-/320899362921?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab717b069 This one is listed as a 3 row, for 1940 to 1952 Plymouth. -
Here is a photo of my 38 throwout bearing that moves back and forth along the shaft cover (the yellow piece). The pilot bushing is the brass looking piece inside the end of the flywheel....
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Tim,,,,,I bought a Ranger pilot bearing, needle type, for a reference of clearance, which seemed large at about .010 to .012. Installation of the needle bearing into a hockey puck type similar to Don Coatney's pilot bearing setup, may be a better pilot setup, than a oilite bearing. But,I am going with the oilite bearing, with a clearance of about .003. After soaking the oilite in trans fluid for a couple of days, I placed it in the freezer for a couple of days, along with the bearing driver I was using. The oilite bearing installed with not too much difficulty.
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falconvan,,,,A good sleeve attached sounds like a good plan. Here is what a have so far with the 38 cover (yellow), 38 throwout, and arm, Ranger disc..
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I used the "krinkle" looking spray paint on my wheels, so my poor painting skills would not be seen, and these 40 year old wheels were not in great shape also......
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Some of the streets in China have signal lights that count down the seconds before they change color.
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Where do you find the official weight of a 49 P15?
Robert Horne replied to OldDad67's topic in P15-D24 Forum
You may try where one takes scrap metal to get an official weight slip. -
Excellent write up on your brake project. I want to do a similar project on my 38, when I ever get the 5 speed installed. I have a couple Ranger calipers, and brackets. I used my wife's Explorer rotor for a few minutes for a test fit.
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Thanks falconvan, feeling a little better today. I got to spend a couple hours on this project today. I modified the clutch fork pivot bolt today. Counter sunk the bolt, used a shorter bolt, so the trans would fit flush with the bell housing. I pulled the two top studs from the trans, and put them into the two holes bored into the bell to match the two holes lower.
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I had a list some time ago of possible T5s. The S10 about 1987 and older may be a good choice. I believe the 1988 had the electronic speedometer. These trans have a number like, 1352-033, 042, 055, 058, etc. Shifter location is what to consider also. S10 near the center. Camaro and Mustangs have T5s, but the shifter may be to the rear of the trans. I am working on a "5speed, not T5" project right now, (over a year now). that may be less modifications involved than a T5, (hope so, anyway)..
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Tim,,,,I was looking at my Photobucket photos, and it looks like the shifter will be 25 inch from the block, about 12 to the rear of the 38 shifter. I am hoping I can keep my bench seat. I may have to modify the shift lever.
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Here are photos of my 36 axle, and 38 axle/hub.
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I can not text, and chew gum at the same time.
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The yellow piece here is off the front of my 38 trans. I have to drill and tab 3 holes into the 5 speed to bolt the yellow piece on. I have to mill down the yellow piece so the throwout bearing can slide toward the rear a little. I am using the 38 throwout bearing and arm, and the 38 pressure plate, 9 inch... I bought a new Ford Ranger clutch disc long ago, a 9 inch.....
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Here is a photo of when I set the unit in my spare frame. The shifter is about even with the steering wheel. So my bench seat should be ok.
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I had the unit hooked up to my spare engine, and had the unit sitting in my spare frame also. I know this will be alot more difficult to install in the Coupe than in a bare frame.
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The trans and bell housing may have to go in and out as one unit. Not as easy project for sure...
