47heaven

I just purchased my front floor pans (2 sides and one center) from Precision Body in Iowa. I first checked out the Plymouth Doctor, but he was way out of my league. Through Precision Body, which is a link on the P15-D24 site, I paid $280 +s/h for all three pieces. That's almost half of what Plymouth Doctor wanted to charge just for the center pan that goes over the transmission. Also, They are also very nice, sturdy and professionally done just like the originals from very good 16 or 18 gauge steel. Give Gil a call at 515-288-1603 and see what he has for ya. They're out of Iowa. Tell him Darin from California sent you. Good luck!

Hey, does anyone out there have any extra windwing window assembly hardware sitting around that they don't need? I need all the pieces for the windwings for both sides. I have a feeling that they were thrown away by accident when I was tossing boxes that I thought were empty because they are no where to be found.

Thanks, Randy. I'll copy your info and take to my friend to help us out when we take it out. Hopefully, it's only just a worn bushing problem.

He told me to come back and see him in two weeks because he's backlogged with work until then, but most likely I will find another way to get it fixed because I'm a "get on it right away" person.

I took the Plymouth to the mechanic to see why it was missing. I thought that maybe it could have been the carb again, but as he was listening to it, he saw the distributor moving up and down slightly. He said that the distributor could be slightly bent or warn, which is causing the points to be off, which is causing the car to miss. I guess my question is does this mean that the distributor is history? Can it be repaired or do I have to put in a new one? Though my Ply is a '47, the engin is a 230, but the distributor is a '47 because the '55 points didn't fit it when we changed them the first time. So, I had to get '47 points. Are there new distributors for the 230 engine or is this an Ebay item? I know one thing though....the points are going to be replaced by Pertonics once I get the new or used distributor.

Thanks, guys. I went under the dash today and saw that all the lights were in their sockets. Where the light is coming from is the radio face. If you recall, I had mentioned sometime back about getting rid of the old radio, but keeping the face portion that houses the dial, buttons and light. Needless to say, I totally forgot about putting something behind it to encase it. So that's where my extra source of light is coming from.

Just curious to know if this is something that's supposed to happen or not... At night when I'm driving, I noticed that the lights from the dash also reflect light down onto my feet and legs. Is this always the way it's been or was there some kind of "light block" to keep this from happening?

Ok...it's time to get the old clock repaired and converted to accept 12v or maybe a 12v to 6v reducer. I was checking on the main site to see who does good clock repair or conversions. Found a few, but not sure who to go with. Any recommendations? Looking for a place or someone who can repair or convert that won't take me to the bank or have my clock for weeks. Is it possible?

Watch out for that "lost time" term. Those guys are usually busy. Plan to wait a long while. Maybe you'll get the engine back in time for retirement.

Actually, David, the part with the hole broke off just about where it curves around to the back. So there really isn't a way to screw or wire it in. That's where I'm screwed...pardon the pun.

I have the same heater on my P15. I believe it's the original one that came with the car. Anyway, it was the first thing I took apart and restored. Since I was going to 12v, I bought a 12v motor for it at Napa. Then, I flushed the radiator core inside (the rusty water never seem to end coming out) and painted it with black tempered paint. Then, I painted the casing with that gray hammer finish. Originaly, it was sort of a light hammered brown, but I knew that wasn't going to look good with gray interior and a gray dashboard. The stainless strap that goes around it and seals the two housing pieces in place is broke at one end, so I couldn't tighten it real well. I also detailed the stainless pieces where there was paint and lettering with a color that was a dead-on match up to the original called Italian Red. It has a little orange tinge to it. That took time. Needless to say, now that I have 12v, that heater really throws out some good heat...and at three speeds! It's a good unit. Now, I have to get a water shut-off valve to install on the engine head so that I don't have extra heat going through there in the summer months.

I've never been one to place names on cars, myself, but I do call it a "piece of ****" from time to time when I get mad at it.

The Pomona Drag Strip is still in operation, here in Pomona, California. It was originally started 1951 between the Pomona Police Department and National Hot Rod Timing Association (NHRA) as a way to get kids from dragging off the streets and onto the track. Today, it's world famous. Pomona Drags in 1954 Pomona Drags today

Here are a couple pics that were sent to me by an older couple that saw me one day with my car in my driveway as they were taking a shortcut. They pulled over and asked if it was a Plymouth. I told them that it was and they asked if they could see it, which of course, I obliged. As they approached the car they had a gleem in their eyes and said that they had the same exact kind of car back in 1951 and actually pulled a 35ft. trailer with if from Long Beach, CA to South Carolina. That blew my mind because I didn't think the P15 flathead could pull that big of a thing, but it did. Anyway, I'll post that story in a couple of days with some accompanying photos, but for the meantime, here are a couple pics they sent me taken of their trip to South Carolina (without the trailer) in 1951 where he was stationed in 1951..two showing them in Long Beach and one as they entered Oklahoma on Highway 66. Stay tuned for the story and more pics. *What's up with these whitewalls? I've never seen any that met the hubcap like that.

Steve, my tail lights and brake light all go on the same time...and they are very bright when the brake is applied (if you are running 12 volt). Stick with the original lights, if you can. Leave the LED ones for the hot rods, unless you are rodding yours out.

I see your point, Norm, and you are right about other purists probably scoffing at what I have done, but I still think I've stayed as original as possible. I fall in between the "anal purist" and the "half-ass purist," if that makes sense. Somethings just have to be changed to make the car pratical...like 6 volts to 12. As far as the customizing...I still feel that today's version of it just disfigures the orginal beauty of the car. I feel if you want a chopped, channeled car with bucket seats and a digital dashboard, buy a PT Cruiser...it's all ready done for ya there.

That blue car looks like a Buick and Plymouth got together and had a miscarriage. The Cadillac looks like a "Pimp-My-Ride" gone wrong and the light blue Studebaker looks like they did the best they could after a head-on collision. (Is that a cable dish they are usuing for a side mirror?) The '49 Plymouth and the '48 (?) Chevy are the only nice ones I see. Sorry guys, I just don't like the modern day customs. It's like looking at pieces of American history get butchered and mangled.

Man, it was sure great seeing that NOS speedo gauge change colors as I was driving. Since I can only get to 50 MPH (at least, that's as far as I'm pushing it, for now) it only changed to a yellow color, but the two colors (green and yellow) are pretty brilliant. I'm going to wait and see if the bounce goes away, as a result of the grease getting all the way through.

Don...was I supposed to do that? Just joking...we lubed it before it was installed because it didn't turn freely.

My NOS speedometer guage was recently installed and the needle tends to bounce back and forth slghtly as I am accelerating. When it gets to about 40 rpm, it stops. The cable is new, so that's ruled out. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

One problem I have with my car is forgetting the emergency brake is engaged and will sometimes start driving off with it on. I was curious if there ever was an optional emergency brake light that would mount under the dash. Something like this... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1957-58-CADILLAC-ELDORADO-EMERGENCY-BRAKE-LIGHT-SWITCH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140738QQitemZ250093770294QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW If not, how could I make one to look period correct?

Thanks, Norm. Like I promissed...I will be making it out your way right after I'm done with this and getting the interior in.

I believe that is what he did. Yes, this is a wiring shop and a pretty high end one at that. The thing is that they get a lot of hot rods in there that want to run all new guages, so maybe he never had to hook an old ammeter up to 12 volts...I don't know. But I think he may have learned something from what he read from the posts. He told me that the dash was back in and that he was going to start the car up to see how it comes out...the ammeter, I mean. So, I'll see tomorrow.

Steve...I had that done to my car for the same reason you want to do it. When I had the whole brake system redone, I asked to have the master cylinder capped off and have a reservoir placed on the firewall with a line running down to the MC. I also have had the hole, where the opening was to add the fluid, patched over and covered so that water doesn't get in. Now, I don't have to guess how low I am on brake fluid or have to mess with pulling up the floor mat and opening the top of the MC anymore. I'm all for original, but being practical makes more sense, in this case.

Yes! That's it! Is that an extra or one you are using?