47heaven

How much are those build cards now?

Would this be what I need for the D30 engine? Is the price right or can I get it cheaper somewhere else? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Water-Distribution-Tube-Freeze-Plugs-for-Ply-Dodge_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10076QQihZ016QQitemZ260131732534QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Yeah, but that kind of luck doesn't pass my way too often. The engine is fine, but he hasn't gotten into the transmission yet...so maybe the same luck will rub of there, as well.

Thanks, Bob...I'm going to give him that info on the flywheel so he's aware.

Yeah, Greg...we already have the P26 head milled and ready to go. It was slightly warped.

Jerry, at $100 per sleeve, plus the cost of the rebuild, it would just start getting more expensive than it is. We are trying some penetration oil on that tube, but I don't know if it will come out in one piece.

Turns out the engine I bought to replace the P26 engine is a D30. I did some research and found out that it comes from a 1949 Dodge has the same cubic inches as the P26, but 103 hp. The P26 was said to have 115 hp, so he's going to use the best of both engines to make a nice one, since the crank is real good on the P26. The D30 bored at .040 right now and he will take it to .060, which is good. So, I may have a P26 block for sale that's at .060 right now if anyone can use it. Some have said on here that it can be bored more, but my mechanic doesn't want to chance it anymore. That's just his feeling and I respect his judgement. (I guess I have no choice, ay?...LOL) Does anyone here have the same engine? Is it basically the same as the P models? Oh, that water sleeve in there is pretty rusted. Is this going to come out in pieces or will it pull out with some lubracation? Also, where can I get new ones to go right in to it? I don't recall seeing that conversation before on here. Any help would be apperciated. Thanks!

Well, judging by the amount of dust and cobwebs on the stuff, they have been there for a while and it doesn't look like her ex has any intentions to retrieve any of the items. Like Norm says, if you don't feel comfortable, then just leave it be. All we are doing here is informing others of available parts for some Plymouths. I don't see her as a person out to rip anyone off.

The person selling these things is a recently divorced woman who sees the car parts as "junk," but knows that there is some kind of value to them. She's not able to ship, so it would be up to the person buying the parts on arranging the shipping. If you are local in California, you can make an arrangement and time to go by and see the items. She lives in Upland, California...in between L.A. and San Bernardino. Norm...thanks for posting the pics. If you have problems with them, let me know and I can go out and take some more. Thanks for the ride in the '53. She rides nice! Have a good trip!

Ok guys...first, thanks for all the good feedback. I copied and gave him all that you guys mentioned about boring the cylinder walls to .080, but he still doesn't feel comfortable about it...concerned about walls being too thin and more heating problems down the road. (I don't want to push the issue with him because he could turn around and tell me to take it to you guys, instead, not that he would, though.) So, anyway, the good news is that we found a 1950 Plymouth engine that looked to be in used, but in good shape. Next too it was a Plymouth transmission, and get this...with overdrive! The woman sold them to me for $300. She just wants to get rid of the pile of Plymouth stuff she has...most of it from a 1949 and 50 Plymouths. I told her that I would take pics of the stuff and post it here and then any of you guys that are in need of parts can contact her and do your negotiating, then. She has a rebuilt P15 engine ready to drop in. I think she wanted something like $800 for it. She also has seats, dashboard, and a couple complete grilles for a 1950 Plymouth. I'll get more info and pics up later this week. Like I said, she's not looking for big bucks...she just wants to get rid, but at a fair price. Oh, if you live far from Upland, California, where she is located, you will have to make your own arrangements for shipping because she doesn't want to mess with it.

I with you on that, guys! I only go to the free shows that don't tend to be too hokey. The SoCal show at the NHRA museum was free and I even got a pic of my car posted on their website...and it didn't even cost a cent. http://public.fotki.com/wackydave/cruise_nights/cruise-nights-2007/07-11-07-nhra-twili/

Stopped by the mechanic's shop that is rebuilding my engine today and he told me that pistons were pretty worn and the cyliner walls were already bored at 60. He said that that was pretty much it's limit and that it wouldn't be wise to bore them anymore. He mentioned that the engine had signs of being rebuilt at one time, but we couldn't tell about how long ago that might have been. By the time I had seen the engine, he already had it disassembled and hot tanked. He said that there was a bunch of caked on rust in mud in the engine (which was to be expected) and said that it also attributed to the over heating problem. Anyway, he told me that he was able to locate two other engines in town from a '47 P15 and the other he's not sure what year. He's going by this afternoon to see if the engine is useable or not. I really don't want to go back to the P15 engine because I heard it was less horesepower than the P26 that I already had in the car. If the P15 engine that he's going to look at can be used, what can be done to it to give it a little more "ooomf" than the original 95 horsepower that it originally had. Any ideas or feedback? Darin

I like the pop-in ones, but they tend to not line the trim up correctly like the originals did. The originals were sort of off set (I don't know why they did that). I find that trying to get the door trim on is a pain in the butt because it's so hard to get your hands up in there. Then comes the cowl trim...it's impossible. I can only get one of the mounts to tighten with a nut. I tried the push on ones for this and they caused the trim to be offset with the rest. Does nayone know an easier way to get the cowl trim on? Darin

Somewhere on the main page there used to be a chart that showed what parts of the P15 engine were originally painted. I can't seem to find it anymore. There is one on this thread, but it's for a 1933. I need something for 1946-48. Anyone know where that info is on here?

That did the trick, guys. Thank you!!!!

We got my engine pulled out and noticed that the front mount was busted. Actually, the bolts were busted where they go into the mount and rubber piece. Are there replacement parts for this or do I need a wholoe new mount? Also, need to get new rubber pieces for the back engine mounts as well. Any info is appreciated. Darin

Yeah, Gary. I got it. I'll be in touch with you shortly. Thanks! Darin

Man, Greg. That engine sure looks sweet. I hope mine looks that good when it's done.

Norm (CA) -That price is for everything...labor, machining and parts. That was just his estimate, but I told him that was about what my budget would allow...though it will hurt. Norm (coupe) - Hopefully, my luck of the draw will be better than blueskies. I'm going to try to be optimistic about this whole thing as much as possible. Again, we won't know about the head until it's taken off. I'm really hoping that it's not craked and not too warped. Pat - Thanks for the posting of the Collectors Auto Supply price chart. I'm forwarding that to the mechanic to look at. James- it sounds like you got a lot done for $2500. I guess doing a lot of the stuff yourself did help save some money. Sorry, but what is a harmonic damper. Seriously...I never heard of it. Greg Thanks for the decking info. I will pass that along to him. I recall him looking at an Egge catalog on car parts for my car when I was there. Would like him to get a complete rebuild kit from one source, if possible.

I received the bad news today that the reason my car is overheating was not only caused by poor circulation, but the mechanic discovered that the head gasket was blown and possibly the head may be cracked, but that isn't yet confirmed...not until the head is taken off to see. I think this was caused the day I went to the mountains and the car got to 210 degrees and boiled over right before I pulled off. The mechanic told me that flatheads are good engines, but do not like to get hot, which I'm sure has been mentioned on here before. Anyway, I've decided to have the engine rebuilt, not just because of the damage it had already, but because I don't know what had and hadn't been done to the engine before I got it. Also, I just want everything to be fresh and new. I'm getting tired of seeing everyone's pics of their shiny, rebuilt engines and mine looks like crap. My mechanic, who is an older gentleman that is familiar with flatheads, is going to do some research on parts in the next couple of days and get back to me about a price. He also does the machining in his own shop, as well. He said that I'm looking at about $2500...give or take. I also told him that I would like to split the manifold as well. Are there any places that sell complete rebuild kits for a 1955 230cid flathead that anyone here has dealt with? I'm familiar with Egge, but I recalled that they were more favorable to Ford and Chevy. I thought about asking the gurus here so that I can help save the mecahnic some searching time.

Thanks Norm!

I'm going to be working with a friend on doing the valve adjustment on my P15 with the P26 engine in it, and my manuel only goes to 1954. Does anyone have these specs or would they be the same as the earlier inline-six engines?

Okay...I see the crud now. Man, that looks pretty bad. I would like to hope that it isn't that bad, but I won't see until the freeze plugs are taken out. How about the water jackets? Do they need to be replaced, as well? I heard they were a real job to take out....sometimes coming out in pieces

Reg...the pic is not showing here on my computer at work, but I can imagine that it's not a pretty sight. The radiator was boiled out about a year ago, but may have developed rust since than. Does removing the freeze plugs require lifting the engine out? Because if that's the case then I'm just going to have it rebuilt.

I took the P15 for a ride up to the local mountains (Mt. Baldy) with a friend yesterday afternoon. The tempurature outside was about 88 degrees and even a little cooler as we proceeded up the mountain highway. I was watching the tempurature gauge as we climbed and noticed it going from 170 to 190. I figured that this was normal because most older cars are known for getting a little hot going uphill. Anyway, about three miles further, the gauge was registering about 200 and the power seemed to be fading, so I shifted up to 2nd gear and got a little more umfff, but the gauge started making it's way to about 205. I went back into 3rd and the car just crawled. By 210, I pulled over and shut off the engine. You could hear the radiator boiling and also hear the water spilling out of the overflow tube onto the dirt, but there was no steam coming out. I opened the hood and we let it cool down for about 20 mins. After it cooled to about 180, I decided to just go back down the mountain. The tempurature stayed at a safe 170 on the way down. Today, it was hotter outside (about 95) and I took the car to show someone. It drove fine, but was getting up near the 200 degree range pretty quick. I then realized that it may be low on water, due to the overheating yesterday. I stopped at Pep Boys, got some antifreeze and poured about half of the undiluted flud in the radiator. I noticed on the radiator cap was some rusty looking sludge, which surprised me because I had the engine flushed last summer. Anyway, that seemed to do the trick and brought the temp. down to about 170. Is it normal for these flatheads to heat up like that on a mountain upgrade or is this something to do with the cooling system needing another flush and maybe an electric fan or better radiator?