1955 plymouth

I was paid a visit by a ghost 1931 Plymouth today, out of the blue, right after dinner was done, a 1931 Plymouth came rolling into my driveway, strange after this was just posted today. Don't be upset by its modified appearance, this car has been in My buddies family for the past 54 years, he showed me pics of his Dad and Uncles and him standing besides the car in its current modified shape from back in the day. Anyways, you have a very nice find. I hope you get alot of pleasure from your new ride and help others enjoy their days also.

I will look at mine tonight, I will see how the latch works and see if there would be an easy way to get in or pop the trunk from the backside, I could post some pics if needed also. No fun. Perhaps you could have one of the kids crawl in with a flashlight and pop it from the inside once you see how it works?

:)It sure seems classics are soooo inexpensive right now. I am amazed at the deals out there if you are looking. I can pick up this '53 Plymouth right now for $300.00. Is anyone else out there taking advantage of this right now or am I the only one going nuts in a down economy? It sure seems like if you ever wanted to get into something and never had alot of money, right now is the time to buy in. Oh, it sure is fun too, never thought I could get so many "cool car" coments without spending a ton of cash.

:eek:I live in northwest Washington and I have about 3.5 acres of large Fir and Cedar trees growing all around where I park my cars. I feel for your loss, :mad:not sure if your neigbor is still alive or not? I think tonight I will go home, fire up the chainsaw and get busy to make sure this will never happen to me.

I think I can get this suburban for $5000.00 down the road. I just might have to go for it. Thanks for your opinions and input. Rob "gone absolutely car nuts!":D

I have the chance to pick up one of the '51 Plymouth Suburban 2 door. How rare is this thing, would it be worth the investment? I could get this for around $6500.00 also considering a partial trade of my '50 Deluxe, not sure if that is a good idea or not. Any input or opinions would be helpful. Thanks. Rob, up in washington state.

Check out oldmoparts.com Andy will be able to help. this week I took the driveshaft out of my '55 on Sunday, I called Berbaums on Mon. I had the parts I needed on Wed. I Installed all the parts on Thurs. I drove the car Today. Give it a try.

Try to back flush the system. I have good luck going backwards bleeding brakes, remove your resivoir cap, remove the caliper and compress the caliper piston either by hand or with a c-clamp, this will force the fluid in the caliper up thru the line and back to the resivoir, it will do a great job of getting the air out as well. air floats so it wants to go back to to top. Hope this trick helps.

I know the plugs we use for Harley-Davidson motorcycles get colder as the number gets higher. EX: 6r12 would be a hotter plug than the 10r12. The reach should not detrmine the temp or burn rating of the plug. You should be very careful using a longer reach plug in any application, your pistons could come real close to the top of your combustion chamber and smack the plugs, also if the threads go past the end of the threads in the head they could build up carbon and make it really hard to remove from the head later on, possibly even pulling the threads with them or breaking off in the head. Hope this helps a little.

Yes, those are the heater controls as mentioned earlier. The one to the right controls the temp setting, the left dial controls the fan speed and defroster option.

I could answer your questions if I knew what exactly you refered to. The two dials on the left side in your photo are for the heater, the one on the right controls the temp setting, the one on the left controls the fan and defroster motor. I have a Blue '55 Belvedere complete for sale right now.

You can repair potmetal real easily, there is a company called "muggyweld" and the product they sell by the name of "super alloy 1" works great. I had a broken horn ring on my '55 and I used some of the super alloy 1 rod with a heat gun as a heating tool and the stuff worked great, I could file, shape and polish the finished product, The horn ring looks like it has already been re-chromed just by using a little never dull after shaping the weld. Check it out I think you will be happy you did. Hope this helps to all who are dealing with broken parts and frustrated by the reply "oh, potmetal is junk, no way to fix that stuff".

I agree that now is the time to stock up on your classic rides. I have personally purchased three since the middle of Feb this year, going to look at number four next sunday. The first three were Plymouth, number four is a '51 Chrysler Windsor, 98% restored and he wants $3000.00 for the car. Perhaps if I sing and dance I will be able to do even better than that?

The old blue is running. I got home tonight, re-installed the distributor, sanded the contacts in the cap, pulled the plugs, blasted them and re-gapped them, hooked the 12 volt straigt up to avoid the hot jumper cables and she fired right up, engine sounds good, did not smoke too much as I had expected it would from sitting for 13 years, only ran for about 2 minutes and shut it down to allow things to get to know each other again without fighting too much. The trans shifts into Reverse and Drive with great ease. The noise was coming from the radio area, there is a round item sitting right above the radio chassis that was humming horribly, I looked under the dash, found a blue wire going to this item, clipped the wire and the noise is gone, I can repair the wire later on once I get a little closer to driving this old ride down the road. Oh, by the way, the fuel is "hot" not flat or varnished, speaking of chicken, the wife fixed up some chicken breast on the George Foreman grill while the car was breathing for the first time in a long time, must have smelled the chicken.

Nice looking '55. It seems there are alot of these in New Zealand. I know of a guy has several older rides and posts videos on youtube as HUDSINBURY. He has a real nice '55 Belvedere alot like mine. See my posting "she's a peach". Sorry to hear you had an issue with one of the freeze plugs, too bad! Was there any warning of this happening, recent engine re-build or really cold night? Keep us posted on the progress and with more pics. Rob in Washington state, currently own (2) '55 Belvederes

Thanks for the input concerning the jump. The car I am messing with has been sitting for about 13 years, last night it did not have spark at the plug. Tires are cracked and such, just trying to see if the engine will fire without too much troubles, took the distributor off, dissasembled, cleaned all contacts and adjusted points, lubed the weights and tested the capacitor, all is well now in the ignition side, I swapped the coil out with a known good one Dad had taken off of an old Ferguson Tractor. The fuel pump is doing its job, fuel smells hot so I hope it will fire. The noise is possibly the Heater fan or motor? It is real loud? Possibly speaker? Still unsure about that one. Will test again when I get home tonight.

I know this is a Dumb question, yet I will ask anyways. Please excuse my ignorance. I have a 6volt positive ground system on my '55 Belvedere, I was wondering what if any harm would be done by hooking up jumper cables to a 12volt battery and trying to start the car? I have done this in attempt to start in the past and I get a loud humming noise from what I would guess is the fan motor? I begin to crank the engine, cranks fine yet when I stop the humming noise is right back. This is a loud humming noise, not just a mild tone hum. any insight would be helpful, Thanks and sorry for the Dumb post.

'50 Special Deluxe cap