Saskwatch

Thank you for this timely post Keithb7. I have some of the JohnDeere corn head grease leftover from packing in the steering box. Question - Do you think After removing & cleaning the cable and housing , I could use some of that grease to successfully lube the speedometer cable unit ? Thank you ?

Excellent ? When you pulled the cable out ,did you use 3in1 oil on it also ? Thank you ,

Thank you for your reply Young Ed, appreciate it. Yes I do see the gasket within the cluster unit frame and as I look at how the speedometer/gauge unit sits in the dash opening it would be very difficult to set & keep a gasket in place ….. almost as impossible as it is to contort yourself into a pretzel up & behind the dash & fasten it in place and connect all the wiring ??

1948 Canadian Dodge (plodge) D25 , I have the dash unit reinstalled & secured in place now to insert speedo/gauge unit & secure it. Looks like it is held in place by the choke & throttle cable assemblies on either side at the bottom of unit & the beam indicator at the top. My question is - is there supposed to be a gasket that fits between the speedometer unit & dash proper or is it meant to be more or less suspended in that dash opening to avoid metal to metal contact eliminating unavoidable “rattling “ going down the road ? Thank you ?

Thank you joecoozie for looking that up but since the parts book doesn’t show anything there I’m just going with the good book (-; ?

Thank you Marc, I appreciate you checking it out & letting me know ?

Time to mount the radiator back on the frame , on the bottom of the radiator frame where the two mounting bolts go through the car frame it looks like there has been some type of pad/cushion anti vibration. Wondering what others have used , & how thick I should be aiming for? I’m thinking of using a 2”X 5” of sidewall off an old passenger car tire ?? Thank you ?

Following this post with interest Doug & Deb. Please keep us posted how you make out ok? ?

Awesome!! Thank you ?

Thank you very much for your response Torpedo, unfortunately I’m technically challenged in all things electrical.??‍♂️ To “ohm out the field windings to ground and to armature”, can I do that with a jumper wire on field post then touch other end of wire to ground and then to the armature post?

Soooo - I have had the generator apart, paid much more attention to carefully clean / shine up commutator than I did with the starter (thank you for the heads up on that ) . Wanted to give it the “motoring test” as described in the shop manual , hooked the positive post of the battery to the generator rear mounting bolt , clamped booster cable to negative post of battery & was going to clamp other end to the armature post , when I did generator started turning immediately before I got to ground the field terminal (post closest to the engine block) to the generator case. …… was happy to see the generator “ motoring” but does this mean the field terminal is shorting out to ground & the generator will not operate properly ??

Welcome to the forum Andrew ! That is one nice ride , you have already done a huge amount of work & are enjoying it daily ….. that’s two thumbs up i’d say ?? Thank you for the pictures , always interesting to hear how you rebuild the generator , starter & the windshield wiper motor conversion, … great idea!

Thank you both for the pictures you have included with your posts, it is very helpful for those of us that are in the same boat trying to figure out what goes where! I for one , am also very interested in your master cylinder set up & your water temperature sending unit, if you have the time to tell us about those ,would be appreciated ….. very nice, quality workmanship ?

I will send you a picture of this transmission & selector lever position within the next hour for you to compare ?

Thank you very much guys , very much appreciated ?

Did the search of “how to “ carefully clean up starter & generator , brushes & bushings look ok, put a shine on where the brushes ride (commutator?) with fine emery cloth, cleaned out the crud in the lines of said commutator with tooth brush &. contact cleaner …. Question / Can I carefully run a hacksaw blade down the lines of the commutator to “widen” them out a tad ? …….” Commutator” , yes, I learned a new term ! (-; ?

Manual says to “Inspect the relief valve plunger and the spring” and if going to reuse to “polish” before reassembly. What would I use to polish up the plunger ? I can see where it has been moving back & forth but really no deep scratches can be detected when running your fingernail over them. Thank you in advance, ?

I feel your pain brother! ?

Excellent work , That is an AWESOME ride ‘ two thumbs up ?? Thank you for sharing

Keep us posted ok? …. Would like to see the full size picture of Jacqueline that is with your name ….. you have done an admirable job from that first picture you posted when she rolled up your driveway ! ??

The distance from from end to end is approximately 15 “ on this one….. going to respectfully suggest that the bend is too steep , maybe try straightening out a tad ….. see photo in private message ?

OUTFXD - tried sending you a photo here …. NIX tried again via pm , I “think” it went through ?

I think that looks much better ?

Is there any product we could apply to that bushing that would help to revive/ keep it from further deterioration? Silicone aerosol,WD 40 etc?

Thank you for posting this sniper. With the stock thermostat housing, the thermostat doesn’t fit as tightly/snug as you show in your pictures, there is approximately a 1/16” space all the way around that the thermostat can wiggle around in the housing ….. would the new V-8 housing be an upgrade or possibly do I have the wrong thermostat? Also would like to ask , in the final installed photo , is that a water temperature sender you have plumbed into the base of the housing? Thank you ?