ccudahy

Thank you for the tip. Did Arizona newspaper search, found 1 ad with all the MoPar dealers for Arizona for 1950. They were in Clifton, AZ (127 miles away from Miami, AZ) near New Mexico border.

So, I bought my 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe (P15C) Club Coupe in August '20. The gentleman I purchased it from didn't remember much of the history of the car or when he got it. I learned that a MoPar owner could send info into Chrysler (can't bring myself to say Stellantis) and get a copy of the build card. I put my request in, October '20. I finally got my card emailed to me yesterday. I was curious is the dealership that ordered the car was still in business. I came up with nothing. So started doing more research. This is what I know. On the build card its says it was assembled in LA and Frisco Motor Sales for the dealer and Miami Arizona for destination. There was no Frisco Motor Sales in Miami, AZ. I searched the 1946-1950 Globe-Miami Directories. There was a T&M Garage in Miami that was a Plymouth dealer. I found a Frisco dealership in Texas. Tried talking to them about their history all they want is to sell me a new car. Tried looking up in Frisco, TX directories from the 1930-1950s and could not find any directories for that time period. Tried looking in the Frisco newspaper from same time period didn't see any car ads. The National DeSoto Club had a list of old dealerships in US, hoping one might also sell Plymouths, nothing on that list. What I would like to know is, does anyone remember, heard, or know of a Frisco Motor Sales and where was it located? Thanks for any help!

No confusion, maybe misunderstanding. I don't have a high mounted or seperate 3rd brake light. My 3rd brake light is the Mayflower ship center light. Someone split that signal and ran it to the fender lights and to make 3 brake lights. The confusion was how to wire the 3 circuits intially, but doing like you suggested got it started and going in the right direction. It all worked out. I also got the 55w bulbs... VERY NICE!

I just want to say thank you to @Ed McDermott,@Plymouthy Adams, and @LazyK . For their advice on wiring the turn signals. Ed for telling us where the wire ran through the car. Plymouthy Adams for telling to follow the instructions. LazyK for telling us to ignore the brake light signal to make all three tails brake lights. I ran 2 wire up front (yellow & green), dropped 1 wire (red) right in front of the firewall, and ran 2 wires (brown & orange) down the kick panel - under the door jamb rubber - under the carpet - under the back seat - to the trunk. Initally did just as Plymouthy Adams said, but all 3 taillights blinked. Remembering what LazyK said, cut the additional wire on the taillights. It worked out well! Thanks again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFxYxhxviN0 (Emergency Flashers) I also would like to give a big thank you, for the idea of a Harley Davidson cable clamp to @3046moparcoupe ? Next on the agenda is maybe headlight relays?!

The first thing installed was the spark wire loom. Then the new Mopar oil filter housing and plumb the oil lines. This engine didn't have an oil filter before I owned it. The coil and distributor were next. Followed by the generator. Pulley and Belt finished out the parts. I decided to dress up the engine after getting some ribbing by my dad. Thanks to @keithb7 tutorial videos set the tappets and used continuity to set the point. Here is how it sounded when it started (no exhaust) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14Ldrl8Mj-0 Some finishing touches and this how it ended up.

How I spent my summer, in a brief summary I worked on the Plymouth in my free time, when the weather cooperated, and my health permitted. From my intro, I said I had a grocery list of things I wanted to get to work on the car this spring. Spring finally came towards the end of May. After lots of rain and even snow the weekend before we pushed the car out of the garage. The generator and distributor were already removed, and the antifreeze leaked all winter. So, the engine was pretty grungy and I decided I was going to clean up the engine before install the rebuilt generator and distributor. The water pump and hoses were going to be replaced again. So, it began. Scrubbed the engine and exhaust manifold with acid to remove the rust. I painted the engine with Eastwood's ceramic engine paint and used their encapsulator paint on all the brackets. Then painted them with Rustoleum black tractor paint. The radiator was taken up to Green Bay to one of the few radiator shop's still around and check out ok. When it got this to this point. Started putting everything on again began.

@LazyK there actual a lot of hobby stock car racers around. Four dirt tracks and a drag strip about an hour or less away. You see the muscle cars their, also. I don't know of any one using it for boats, I know the marina has their own pump by the docks and they use a different octane gas than typical car use.

It maybe had to believe, but we have a gas station in town that sells 110 octane leaded on the pump. If you were curious $8.74/gal right now.

Don't get down on the choice you made on the carburetor. If you did your homework and feel its the right choice, you will make it work. That's all there is too it. Alot of people keep saying the Carter were the only carburetor used. It wasn't. I believed it so much I almost blindly bought a Carter rebuild kit and everything Carter related. Glad I slowed down and looked things over. I have a '47 Plymouth with a Stromberg BVX-3 and most books and resources say Carters were the only one for '47 Plymouth. So, I thought someone gerry rigged fix on my car, but a couple pieces of info actually list a Stromberg for '47 only. Numbers match for '47 even. So, found out I got an original odd ball. Just some friendly words of encougement. In trying to figure out what the heck was up with my carb, found a lot of Dodges used Strombergs as well as Carters linkages are interchangeable.?

@Boogeryou gave yourself the green check for solving the problem. So, what did you decide?!

To add to what to @Pete just added. If you get an AC Delco brand or AC Delco based generic/store brand they are different size then the more common ones Pete just gave dimensions for. I just purchashed a group 2 - AC Delco based store brand battery it is longer and taller than the typical group 1's. Need to get new battery cables, too tight to hook up. This is from the AC Delco Spec. Sheet: (Height from Top of Case - add .75" or 18mm for Top of Post)

This turn signal switch is suppose to have it built in, that's what it said in the ad. ?

@Plymouthy Adamsthanks for the sage advice, and along with @LazyK explaining to me what is happening with the turn signal switch and the brake lights. I was thinking about it the wrong way. I was thinking the turn signal was "feeding" not "blocking" electricity. It actually makes some sense now! I will let you all know how it turns out.

Thank you LazyK! Yes are correct. It does show the "factory optional turn signals". That doesn't help things. The biggest thing messing with my mind now is all three taillights are brake lights, which is great. I am just not that good at this stuff to wrap my mind at how to get 3 circuits into 2 contacts, without looking for a tripple contact plug and tripple element bulb. Which I don't think they make or do they??

Thank you Ed! To the best of my knowledge the car never had turn signals. I think I am going to have to, put new dual contact sockets in the front since that one wire has been cut. Then I will have one wire for the yellow connection from head light switch and then I can hook up the #4 (yellow) and #2 (green) from the turn signal to the other wire. Run the extended wires along the front wiring harness up the near the juction block for the headlights, then to each of the parking lights. I believe like, @Ed McDermott is saying. If my thinking is right? The rears have two wires to them already. Do I use the brake light wire or the headlight switch controled wire to get turn signals to work in the rear since I only have 2 wires? I guess I am still stumped on how to do the tailights? I will have to see how to run wires along the frame.