billrigsby

Got my real license plates today (in CO the YOM plates are a secondary plate).

Do not have anything for the B2 Series, B1 B3

Build cards from the California factorys came like that.

Received the build card for this truck today, does have the original engine as suspected. Build cards from Detroit are much different than from California, this should be interesting to figure out.

Yes it was, Dang, can't delete Mods please do so

Will it run after 59 years 1953 Plymouth Cranbrook YouTube

Photo Currently on eBay

Here is that section from the parts book..........

Very Nice! Excellent Work!

FROM; Dodge Pilot House Era Truck Club on Facebook

Looks that way, from their website;

Yep, I have been looking for years for the '43' County code, never saw any, not even a single or in the automobile format. Had to jump on these, silver, sort of, they are bare aluminum with black type.

Got these today for the new 1 Ton Dually, They are from the neighboring County (Fremont). not Teller County where I live, but close enough. At least they are actually Truck Plates and not from Denver or Boulder! (and relatively a low number, just need a little paint touch-up) From All About License Plates.com..... 1932-53 TRUCK FORMATS 1T1 - 9T9999 Trucks 1 Ton or over. 10T1 - 63T9999 Hyphen used before "T" in 1932 only. COLORADO COUNTY CODES 1932-58 1959-82 14 UP - UT Fremont 43 YL Teller

It would without the box blade and all the weights add to that!

Removed all of the modified rear panel and moved stake pockets. Ordered some 3/8" solid rivets to put the stake pockets back where they belong. Looks like the previous owner had two small sides on the rear end and a small 'tailgate', back to original. I'll just remake the end angle wood cover piece, this on is so rusted, not worth the energy to repair. Moved the bed frame around and used the roller magnet to gather up up all of the remnants of hardware from the removal. Time to start cleaning/rust converting.

Bed wood and Bed strips removed This was inside of one of the bed frame rails, where one of the u-bolts went. Do these look 'stock' or ' a normal part' for the bed mounting? I can see it adding a great deal of strength to the mounting point. The only one left after all these years.

I got my intake/exhaust flange hardware from him, good quality and OK price, price went up after my purchase though.

Yes, was supposed to quote @ggdad1951, but that did not work!

Guess again, 1946 1947 1948 NOS Chrysler Dual Water Heater control valve-* very rare! try $800, but hey, it does have FREE Shipping!

True, I was once told you never use an acid on a part that takes stress, ie. suspension parts. Acid can cause, I think it was carbon embrittlement, weakening the component. I am looking for a converter in the case of the bed and the truck floor board.

Functional is the goal, just want to remove the added angle iron at the rear and relocate the stake pockets to the correct location, re do the wood and strips. I used more muriatic acid than I care to remember back in the 80's when I first started my other one ton project, works real good. Thanks for all the info.

Thanks, I'll look into that one also, it will be a bit before it is needed, so the more options the better. When I did my 50+ year old Kubota restoration nothing was that terrible, I used Rustoleum Rust-Reformer spray primer, was very happy with the results. This 75 year old truck is a different story though, 'flaking' rust in some spots, mostly the exposed flat bed.

Prefect, I was hoping for that answer.

Started to disassemble the bed today, going to get it into it's separate pieces, clean, de-rust (convert) and start to piece it back together. Got all of the sides off so far and several of the bolts along the main side rails. The main side rails are looking pretty sad with several 'rust through' spots. Corner and rear steel brackets, missing one flat bracket for the slide in tailgate. BUT the rear end seems to have been modified, an added angle piece and moved stake pockets, I'll probably rectify that and bring it back to, close to original.

Thanks, I'll look into that, going to need a bunch for the bed frame also, wondering does it go on thick? With a brush? or sprayed and thin?