Sniper

Looked around some for a tie rods with a stud that didn't let it stick out as far, not sure I found anything useful there. But I did see a couple with bent arms that might have done what you needed. I suppose you could have reamed the steering arm to let the current tie rod sit deeper into it and away from any interference. hard to say without being there. But good job getting her on the road, or closer to being on the road.

Beginning to wonder if maybe a coil over swap is a better idea? Takes care of the spring and shock relocation in one fell swoop.

Moog CC850 is the part number for the Aerostar springs. If you go to this site it gives the specifications and dimensions. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal_coil_springs.asp

Hey! I'm a Gen X'er. Granted I am in the oldest group of them born two months into the group. I have three millennials (all daughters) and a Gen Z'er too (son). All of them have been out in the garage with me. I learned what I know about these cars by working on mine and reading and asking questions, my old man was of the silent generation and boy was that true, he;s was silent about cars for the most part he didn't touch them. My kids at least know their ways around a tool box. Heck, my oldest was a mechanic in the Army. But to be honest if my daughters have car problems they come to Dad to fix it, they are out there helping though. The son isn't old enough to drive, yet. Getting close though. Funny story about my oldest, the Army mechanic. After she got out she came back home and had a car issue then asked if I would look at it. being Dad I said ok, then I remembered what she did in the Army. Asked her "hey, weren't you a mechanic in the Army? Why am I looking at it? Do you want to borrow my tools?" She said "I was a diesel mechanic, I don't know anything about gas engines." I asked her if it was an engine problem and she said no, so I said "So, why am I looking at it?" I got the look and she just asked me to look at it again. Turns out her dome light wouldn't turn off so she pulled the bulb to keep it from killing the battery. Once I explained to her that her headlight switch will also keep the bulb on if you rotate it past the detent then she was like "duh". Problem solved in about two minutes. Guess she didn't do electrics either, either that or Army vehicles don't have dome lights, I dunno I was Navy..

Thanks, that was the ticket.

It feels like oil, it looks like oil, it smells like oil. No, I am not going to taste it though over the years I have ended up tasting both involuntarily. Occam's razor is a fine theory, until it meets reality. As easily as it cleaned up off the plug I suspect it was a fresh spill that got blown on the plug by the semi-loose head bolt. Which probably means a failing or soon to head gasket. I have one and I had planned to pull the engine anyway to clean, regasket, new core plugs and paint it. I wasn't going to pull the head till I got a new Edgy one, but that's out the window now.

thanks, I probably have one in my rebuild kit. I was thinking some sort of rubber V shaped thing not a circle of thick paper. I plan to do the shock relocation in the near future

looks like the 88 is a dimmer version of the 1130 https://www.bulbtown.com/88_Miniature_Bulb_Ba15d_Base_p/b88.htm Same base ( Ba15d), same voltage, more watts with the 1130, more life with the 88.

I figured as much, I got on it getting on the highway. I'm not young enough to try, never mind I did drift it in a corner the other day. Sort of by accident, made a hard left at 30ish, rear hit a bump and got light so I put the hammer down and rode with it thru the corner. I really need to address the suspension, it's a boat. I though maybe I spilled some when I pulled the oil bath for the choke adjustment. Since I didn't see it till after I was done buttoning it up and was doing a final look around it seemed possible. But if you look at the plug you can see it appears to have been blown on the plug, boot was dry. I cleaned it all up and we'll see if anything returns, no more drifts. All this reminds me, is there supposed to be a gasket on the carb where the air cleaner clamps on? I don't have one, no idea what it looks like and can't find a listing for one but the air cleaner is a bit rattly on the carb..

1130 is what the post above yours says he used in the dome light. https://www.bulbtown.com/1130_Miiature_Bulb_Ba15d_Base_p/eiko1130.htm

I suppose it's possible it's oil splash from the air cleaner. I hope so. I'll keep an eye on things and see if anything shows up. I guess I could pull the head bolt and see if there is any oil on the shank. I do plan to pull the engine to regasket it, new core plugs, clean and paint it. I wasn't going to pull the head though. I think I am running a bit rich and need a step colder plug.

Here are the plugs I removed last month.

number three, on the other side of the oil looks the same. these plugs were put in last month and I torqued them to spec.

I retorqued all the headbolts, twice, after I saw the oil. Here are pictures of #4 plug

I have been teaching my son the basics on the Cambridge. We are going to rebuild the carb and a Carter BB is about as basic a carb as you can get. My thinking is that you cannot handle the fancy stuff if you dont know the basics. Just like sports, knowing the fundamentals always make a difference.

I was under the hood adjusting my choke when I saw the oil puddle in number 4 plug well. You can see it was on the plug too. I put a torque wrench on the bolt and it was under torqued. I ended up running all the cylinder head bolts and about half were undertorqued. Ran them again to make sure I didn't miss any. That's the center bolt between number three and number four plugs. Does that bolt go into the crankcase or anywhere with oil? I ask because I can't figure how it's weeping oil and I am about 99.9% sure it oil, it's slippery and smells like oil. This is something new, but I did get on it the other day and wound it out so maybe that started the seep. Anyway, I cleaned it up and will keep an eye on it. But that got me to thinking it probably wouldn't hurt to retorque every tuneup. I did note that Chrysler left enough room, barely in some cases, to to that.

I am in west Texas, Vidor looks to be about an hour east of Houston? 7 hours from me.

Rock Auto sells the proper sized cables and the carb kit too. Get the carb number off the air horn to verify but it should be a Carter BB and the Walker 15021B kit will work. RA doesn't list it for a 50, but Walker does.

Eggs Benedict, had them for the first time in 2018 when I went to a reunion in Vegas. Liked them so much I learned to make them, from scratch Hollandaise sauce and all. Love them.

Merry Christmas to all.

When I converted my 51 to 12V I put in new battery cables. I also added a ground strap from the battery negative to the radiator cowl. I think I may add another from the block to the firewall. Good grounds are required for starting and proper voltage regulation. Doesn't hurt to add some extras.

It's 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern on the wheels. I test fitted a 15x7" cop car rim off an 87 Diplomat on the back of my 51, fit fine. However, being that our cars have wheel bolts and not studs there is an alignment pin on the drums that fits into a corresponding hole of the original rims. That hole is not on later rims so you need to remove it, or drill a hole in the rim to match. I removed the pin on mine. As for floor pans, this guy says he has them. http://theplymouthdoctor.com/ Other than that I know noting about him.

Reading the obvious appears to be a lost art as well. I don't have a bill of sale, I have a title and a registration in my name with the engine number being the ID. That's it.

Awesome work. Saved another one for the road. I wonder if a heim joint on that end would have netted enough clearance without the bend?

Problem is the documentation I have showing my ownership has the engine number which to quote CHS is not usable. "A serial number must be provided. We cannot research vehicles by body or engine numbers."