Sam Buchanan

Should work, the third terminal is for a dash indicator light.

I just ordered this LED flasher because the description states it will work with a combination of standard and LED bulbs. I think you will need this or a similar flasher to get the LED bulbs to flash at the proper rate. Very reasonably priced at $17.99. I'm replacing all tail, brake and signal bulbs with LED, cost about $50 for the complete conversion from the vendor below. @46Chris said he is pleased with their bulbs. https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-cf13-6-volt-dc-led-compatible-3-terminal-150-watt.aspx

Theoretically.......one fuse is not as lacking on these very simple cars as it might first appear. A fault anywhere in the protected wiring should blow the fuse and protect the wiring. The problem is that a fault in an isolated location (one tail light?) could take out all the lights. Individual fuses work around this scenario. A good rule of thumb is to only replace the fuse one time. If the fault was random the new fuse might last long enough to get home, but if it blows a second time there is probably a major fault and game over until the fault is repaired. As stated above, in-line fuses can be used to add more specific protection. The heater motor is a good place for an in-line fuse, just make sure it has a lower rating than the main fuse. But replacing ALL the wiring is the only way to properly install a new fuse panel, and a 12v harness is a big no-no because the wires can be too small for the greater load of a 6v system. So have a good understanding of the wiring architecture before making changes, be sure new problems are not added where none existed previously.

If your wiring is still original.....yes.....one fuse on the headlight switch. It was a different world back then.

A couple of observations..... Back in the day it was common to park the car in reverse, that offers maximum resistance to rolling because of the large gear ration. You mentioned an overflow tank for the radiator.......not needed, just leave coolant level about an inch and a half below the neck and sloshout won't occur. You have a nice car....enjoy!

While the single center brake light is very cool and nostalgic, I felt it was inadequate for inattentive drivers tailgating my P15 since they are more accustomed to seeing brake lights associated with tail lights. One of the first things I did on my car during the process of returning it to roadworthy status was install turn signals and convert the tail lights to double filament sockets. This is not a difficult mod if you have a basic understanding of wiring. I left the center light in the brake circuit so there are now three brake lights. I may go with 6v LED tail light bulbs, I like the increased output and lower current draw. However, I'll need to change out the flasher for one that will function properly with LEDs.

That sounds reasonable to me, in that case I would install the gasket. Guess a little leakage would be the anti-corrosion system. That system is alive and well on my car! 😁

That's the same conclusion I came to and another reason why it seems to me the gasket is ineffective at stopping leaks at locations that are supposed to be sealed. Guess it's better to let the bearing retainer leak down the gasket slot instead of into the bellhousing. Of course the retainer is supposed to be sealed and draining oil back into the trans case. Now.....the gasket is staring at us on the workbench, do we install it or leave it on the bench?

I don't understand the gasket, either. The gasket doesn't cover the area of the transmission where the countershaft bore is located. Plus, the gasket has a slot underneath the location of the bearing retainer (??). Beats me...... However, I have a lot of respect for the old MoPar engineers, those dudes were sharp about how to work with the technology available to them....wish I knew what they were thinking.

Use this link to find results of a Google search with many of the threads in this forum on transmission leaks: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3A+p15-d24.com+transmission+leak&oq=site%3A+p15-d24.com+transmission+leak&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg60gEJMTUwODdqMGo0qAIAsAIB&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Here is a thread I started about resolving a large leak on the front of my P15 transmission: https://p15-d24.com/topic/58630-major-leak-countershaft-3-speed/ It is my experience the paper gasket between trans and bellhousing will not stop drips from a transmission that isn't sealed properly.

Your alternator fuse needs to be sized according to the current load your wiring harness will tolerate before failing, not according to the potential output of the alternator. The fuse is to protect your car's wiring in case an internal short occurs in the alternator (quite unlikely but protection is a good idea). I don't know what that number is since I don't know details of your wiring architecture but 100a is no doubt way too big.

Pretty much everything. Not trying to be snippy but you are just going to have to do some electrical troubleshooting, something we can't do via the internet. There are dozens of places where current can be interrupted and it only takes one fault. Hope the problem is easy to find.

BAT terminal on regulator or the actual battery terminal will work, they are electrically at the same potential. I'm not sure how the early stomp starters are wired. Most of us connect the single wire to the wire that was on the BAT terminal of the old voltage regulator. Your fuse can go between the alternator and where you connect the single wire. Its purpose is to protect the car's harness in the remote case something in the alternator shorts to ground. The link should be rated a little lower than the harness wires so it will open before smoke escapes from the harness. Get ready to enjoy bright lights at idle and a battery that stays fully charged with none of the aggravation of keeping an old genny and regulator in working order!

I don't know the answer to the issue that has been raised in regard to whether or not your 1938 has the same type of ammeter as my 48. What I can tell you is the modern 6v alternator works beautifully in my car using the original ammeter. Connecting the alternator to your wiring architecture is straightforward because the new alternators are "single wire" and internally regulated which eliminates the old voltage regulator. There are several threads in the forum on this subject and we can walk you through this simple process if you decide to pursue it. Here is the vendor I and several other forum members have used to source our alternators: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

Yes, if no grease fitting on the water pump you have a newer pump that doesn't need lubrication. Currently available GL4 or GL5 gear oil will work fine in the rear axle. There is a small vent on the axle housing, check to make sure it hasn't been covered with road gunk.