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Sam Buchanan

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Sam Buchanan last won the day on February 18

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  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    custom-built aircraft and boats
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe
    1974 Triumph TR6
    1969 VW Beetle

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  • Location
    north Alabama
  • Interests
    custom-built aircraft

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  1. I was seeing some random oil on the head, it went away after converting to a paper filter in the original filter housing. I don't know how oil was escaping the filter but it must happen occasionally.
  2. Agree. Probably some leakage from the thermostat housing.
  3. I saw the meme not as passing judgment on disk brakes, etc but as observing how some will insist on the "purity" of something like old-school lubricants while sanctioning upgrades to other components of their car. I thought the meme was amusing and to-the-point......well played.
  4. Don't think that would explain the engine restarting when primed through the carb and then running rough.
  5. Not much reason to use straight 30W, 10W-30 is an excellent option readily available and reasonably priced. It has the same viscosity as straight 30W when hot but makes cold starts easier when it is similar to 10W. But 30W is still available, just takes a bit of effort (or place an order on Amazon).
  6. You have a plastic fuel filter right next to the exhaust manifold......BAD IDEA!! You don't want that filter to fail and spray fuel on the manifold...... And in that regard you may be dealing with vapor lock due to fuel boiling in the line close to the manifold after the engine gets hot. Our modern ethanol-contaminated gasoline is more prone to vaporization than the older formulations. This would explain why the engine will run when primed but then run rough due to the uneven fuel delivery. An easy test would be to remove the fuel filter and insulate the line (or move it away from the manifold) and see if that makes any difference. Or maybe even better....a neoprene fuel hose that is secured so it won't be next to the manifold would probably be less apt to heat the fuel to vaporization. This is something easy to try, hope it works!
  7. That is not at all what I said. I'm just observing the lack of consistency of some who strenuously promote certain elements of the "old school" while adopting modern tech at the same time. But I respect the prerogative of owners to operate our old cars in whatever manner they wish. My old car has an alternator, fancy transmission oil.......and bias ply tires.
  8. Ok.......guess we ditch the 3000 mile oil change intervals, radial tires, 12v conversions and electric wipers................. 😉
  9. That must be for the name-brand air grease, I think the store brands are a little lower in N2 content. 😄
  10. Be sure you get the air grease that is 70% nitrogen.
  11. $10 a quart is a bargain......Redline is $23 per quart. But after putting up with a crunchy first to second shift until the tranny got hot, I consider the Redline to be a bargain since it totally fixed the crunchy shift. If I hadn't spent the money on Redline I would be reminding myself of my stupid thriftiness every time I heard second gear not engage smoothly. Now I congratulate myself for spending only $46 to fix this transmission! Would GL1 have worked as well? It might have....but at this point it doesn't matter. It's a matter of perspective........
  12. Redline MTL provides excellent service with no gear shift crunching in my manual transmission cars ('48 Plymouth, '69 VW, '74 TR6) with no concerns about corrosion of brass syncros in these transmissions. It is a little pricey but in my opinion an excellent value due to how it keeps these old trannys happy. The modern GL oil is too slippery in the my P48 and causes crunchy shifts when cold. The diff can use the modern GL oils.
  13. One a somewhat related note, we can have a bad day if the hood release cable breaks leaving us with no easy way to release the latch. Some have used a long bar to reach up behind the grill to bump the latch enough to free the hood but this is difficult for someone in a hurry or who has never used this trick. I attached a second cable to the latch and ran it out into the fender well so I could release the hood by reaching behind the front wheel. This is an easy mod and a broken release cable will never be a concern. I got this idea after modifying my Triumph TR6....that hood is hinged on the leading edge and a broken release cable is a BAD deal with that car!
  14. https://p15-d24.com/topic/59124-rear-axle-help/#comment-635519
  15. There are places where budget decisions can be justified but brakes are not one of these. Spend whatever money is needed to put your brakes in tip-top condition, your lifespan might be altered by saving a few bucks...... And to address your question...in my opinion pitting in a brake cylinder is totally unacceptable.
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