Sam Buchanan

That diagram is a riot! Just as Abraham Lincoln once said, "Don't believe everything you see on the internet"...................

Rich, you might find this thread to be useful: https://p15-d24.com/topic/62606-looking-at-a-1956-dodge-coronet/ 😄

If a pin can't be easily sourced I would consider a grade-8 bolt.................

Now the question is whether or not you will need the little brass ferrule found in the original tank to get whatever fitting you use to seal tightly. Straight threads usually need a flared fitting for sealing.

Don't know if I would want that stuff in my rare and expensive honeycomb radiator....................

I had to drop the oil pan and rear main cap to provide clearance to remove the flywheel bolts so the flywheel could be dropped out of the bell housing.

I think pulling the transmission would be much simpler than pulling the engine.

Go to your local auto parts or hardware store and get a brass 1/4" NPT barb fitting and see if it fits your tank, I suspect it will. If it doesn't....go to Plan B.

Short answer....no. The alternator, regardless of its max rating, will not put out more current than needed to satisfy the loads on your electrical system. In other words, if your old genny put out 30a to accommodate the max load, then the new alternator will output similar current. Nothing gets fried and you can use your existing ammeter.

I can be intimidating for the first timer to hit the puller REALLY HARD with a LARGE hammer but the shock of the hammer blows is part of the process in addition to the pressure being created by the puller. As has been stated before, always leave the nut on the axle while using the puller, when the drum releases, all that energy that has applied to the puller has to go somewhere and it can launch an unsecured drum in a way that can cause serious damage and injury.

I don't know which requires more fluid volume to be moved, drum wheel cylinders or disc pistons, so I don't have a definitive answer on which Wilwood master cylinder is optimum for our application. I added a proportioning valve to the rear brakes but don't see any difference in pedal pressure regardless of how the valve is adjusted. I'm satisfied with the brakes especially when considering the limited traction allowed by the bias-ply tires I use. I failed to address your question about residual valves. I don't have any external valves installed and don't think they are needed. However, I have disc brakes, don't know if that makes a difference.

Dennis, I converted to the Wilwood m/c at the same time the disc brakes were installed so have no experience with the cylinder/drums combination. My comment about the 1 1/8" was due to the pedal on my car not being as firm as I expected. As a rule of thumb a larger bore will move more fluid but require more pedal effort. But my brakes work fine and I think your installation will be fine. When we move away from original equipment we sometimes have to be willing to experiment a bit.

I suggest a 1 1/8" bore, the 1" bore of the Wilwood I have works fine but I think the pedal would be firmer with the larger bore. However, I am running disks on front so my experience might not match what you find with drums on front. Once we start mixing non-standard cylinders and brakes we are in the experimental realm.

I discovered the same thing a few years ago and used an end cap to make an adapter for a pressure bleeder.

The issue with GL5 is in some applications (like my P15) it is too good! The superior lubricity may not allow the syncros in our vintage trannys to grip the gears sufficiently to allow smooth meshing. It was only after I replaced GL5 with Redline MTL that the syncros began functioning as designed and smooth shifting in all temps is now the norm. I wouldn't discourage anyone from using GL1 if it works well in a particular transmission. It appears the Penrite Transoil is a modern take on GL1 and is most likely a fine option since it is intended for vintage vehicles.