55 Fargo

I have to agree, this paint may have been too thick, reducing it, and even turning up the air, may have better atomized and allowed this paint to flow out. From where I am sitting it looks like severe peel to me, but maybe it is my computer image....PS have started painting something where this has happened, added more reducer, and even added some mineral spirits to slow things right down, and save the paint job... With a smaller tip, for sure more reducer wwould have been required for better flow.

Sorry to hear it didn't work out, only those of us who shoot paint can understand when something like this happens. It sounds like you are doing everything right, but also sounds like oil and water are getting through somehow. Hey you could always try International paints, in Winnipeg (Sheppard St), they carry an enamel "MC 200" tintable to most solid colors 50-70 per gallon. This product you can add a generic hardener, and thin with medium speed enamel reducer or xylene. It is a very tough shiny enamel, but not acrylic enamel, so most likely you don't want that type. Ever try Paint FX on Mcphillips, he used to have some good deals on lower priced 1 stage Urethanes....good luck, hey I might be painting my truck fender tonight, still needs a quick block with 320, then will lay on the enamel with hardener... How thick was your paint, are you sure this didn't need some reduction for a better wet flow, there is a balance of too thick, causing issues and too thin with sags and runs, sometime enamels paint can be hard to shoot for these reasons

Do you have access to another compressor a portable, that can provide enough CFM for a test? What were you shooting base? or a SS Urethane? Is the paint going on super dry, wet or what before, pebbling up? Solvent pop? You have a Line dryer , water seperator, filter at gun handle/ Sounds like some serious contamination or solvent pop..

Unless you have been doing this daily for a long time, you may not get this perfect. You will paint it, it will be fine and if somebody else doesn't like it, too bad so sad. Yor truck is a driver, not a pristine show truck, it will be a whole lot better than it ever was. My truck was bruised on every panel, including a nightmare on the roof. I could easily spend 2 weeks on the fender I was working on, to get it much more level, but do not have the time or inclination right now, she is a whole lot better than before.You could alwasy get another door, at some point, and paint it and install. Hey this may be true, but up north, you often deal with not only beat up stretched out tin, but some is rusted to no end.The Fender I am working required welding on most of the mounting edge, a lot of welding for old rusted fenders, not worth it. I have seen glass fenders that were awful, and some very good, but I can only attest toa few occasions. I often see those up here, with those 10k paint jobs, and then these individuals are afraid to drive these vehicles anywhere, to each their own. I still like original paint in good form, the best, but how many of these old trucks are ever like that..

She be a 47 Chrysler Royal Coupe, 228 Lhead 6, 3 spd standard, no fluid drive clutch and 3.73 rearend....

Right on they look happy together...

Here was my Lady Grey, I did all the body work and paint job at home myself. I had to sell her unfortunately do to financial reasons 2 years ago. The new owner and I keep in touch, he has collection of vintage mopar vehicles..

Well this is a hobby or lifestyle, so we gotta do, what we gotta do. I shot on 3 coats of primer tonight, both sides all back to back with a very short flash time. The weather was warm, bugs came out, got a few in the primer, as I shot it on outdoors. I am going to now wait and spray in rocker rubber undercoating inside the fenders, will finesse the outside a bit more, then more primer and quick slick sanding and painting, they are very far from perfect, but so is the rest of my truck, and it's body work. I am like 4mula-dix, will redo this at some point, want new fenders or an entire box, and front fenders and nose piece if I can find a good donor truck... But for now, she is cleaned up and in 1 color....then the V8 is coming

Hi all, beginning to think PP Flamings clear over rusty patina and burnt metal is not a crazy idea. Anyway, spent 12 hours on doing filler work on a wicked rough, warped, banged up rear fender, but very little rust. I am way over my head in this degree of work, minor stuff okay, major filler, and straightening, not so much. Now I spent 12 hours on this, an experienced bodyman would have spent maybe 4 hours. There is a reason body work is expensive, it is very time consuming and labor intensive, and really not my idea of fun. I am far to impatient to have the time,energy and patience for this type of work....LOL I will have wavy fenders, but way better than they were, they will match the wavy truck, next time I will buy glass repops, primer and paint, no finessing for hours on end....

That's okay, like I mentioned it's your truck, your style, your way, enjoy it, you don't have to justify it to anyone. It sounds like this is the way you like the truck, so no reason to get any opinions from others...........Ride On Brother

How about any of the plug wires on the wrong cyl, just 2 out of place can make it run the $hits. I did this not that long ago, had 2 wires on the wrong spark plugs and it ran terrible, but it ran.

I hate to say this but that needs paint, or primer or mac tac.. Your truck looked kinda cool prior to the fire, but not so much now. What exactly are you trying to accomplish, a pork& bean can in the fire look? You have a nice little truck there, why on earth do you want this "artsy fartsy folksy" metal burnt to $hit look. but your the owner, so you can do it anyway your heart desires. PS my bodywork and paint job is the $hits, so I am not looking down from cheque book pedestal at you, as my truck ain't so great either

Hi Jeff, no engine temps, were actually lower heading into the wind, but the wind was cold. Don't forget, I have a 3.23 diff, that is not the best gearing for 4th gear 1;1 accelerating, and only at 1500 rpm when I hit 4th gear. This engine starts well, does not burn oil, has a bit of uneven compression, but is not bad otherwise. I would like to see the same engine, fresh rebuild, shaved head, dual exhaust dual intake or a 2bbl carb, a lot more throttle response....PS the Ducks are moving on in the play offs we are not. Hey you still have those bumper stickers that say "welcome to California, now go home".....LOL

Because you do not have a filter, be careful with the "Seafoam" in the oil business, could dislodge a lot of sludgy chunks. Listen you have fresh oil, get her road ready and put on some miles, clean out the oil pan and valve chambers, and see what you have. Just drive her, see what temps you run, and watch the oil pressure.....good luck

Just got back from a nice drive, it is cold here 45f, 25-30 mph northwest wind. I had fun drove both town and country, and drove her like I stole her, pedal to the metal a lot. I did find though on the last leg of the drive on the highway, a super strong cold wind, had to really push her to get up to 65 mph, she is a bit sluggish with 3.23 gears and a strong head wind. I would equate going against a very strong wind is like hill climbing a lot of load on the crank. I had a blast driving tonight.....PS Winnipeg Jets are going Duck hunting tonight at the MTS center....yeehaww

carb, fuel lines, keep em as cool as possible in summer heat won't hurt. Your electric fuel pump, should be a big help with hot carb and hot fuel starts.....

Your engine may burn oil if too light a viscosity, and/or lose oil pressure once she warms up. In those cases sometimes a little heavier oil will remedy some of those issues common to a well worn engine. Oil pressure, and oil burning will tell you a bit about your flathead......

Exactly, how are you supposed to know. At least you did not mention ZDDP, detergent versus non detergent, which friggin brand is superior etc. Just put in the fresh oil and use it for a while. Later on pull the oil pan and valve side covers, cleaned them out, install new gaskets, that will help clean everything up....get her runnin

Tony use the Kendall 30 weight, get this engine running, do some driving, and after a couple of hundred miles dump the oil and add new. you will see what viscosity your engine prefers, it could be 10W30, 10W40, 20W50, or straight 30. New fresh modern oil is what you need, then get this beast burning gas for a while....

Hi Ralph, good idea on the bend. No I do not have a carb spacer, but plan on making one, if I keep this engine, or if I install the 318 I have...

Okay so decided to see how well this heat shield works. Drove to filling station down the highway against a 35-40 mph cold wind. The outside temp is only 45f, so way too cold for this test, but did discover something. After fueling the truck, and maybe 5 minutes later, started truck, it starts but you gotta hold down gas pedal like shes flooded a little, then runs a bit rough for a few seconds then good to go. This symptom seems like a float set too high, doesn't it? I drove home with the wind, 65 mph , carb bowl was quite cool to the touch, so it is not heated up, way too cold to see if this will help in very warm weather driving.

Hi yesterday someone on the HAMB, with a 216 chebby wanted to see a carb heat shield. So I went out to the garage and made 1 in about 20 minutes. Have a look, not sure it will be enough, as the rear of the carb does not have protection, but the bowl and filter do.

Permission? Forgiveness? Really, who's really the boss. LOL

Yes well, I mentioned the modern "corn booze" fuels in post 17 and 26, this fuel will have an effect, that's for sure.