55 Fargo

Hi all, been layin low, lots happening and on the go, but took a drive today, enjoy, hope to contribute more to the 'blogs" and forum, when I feel a little more energized..

Yes not sure what that is about, could be something I am not aware of, but mine worked okay.

Not true, at least not in my case. Did the MC get bench bled, how are you bleeding the system? You are getting air in the system if still spongey, are all connections tight and sealed? Dot 5 Silicone can be a little harder to bleed, but not a real problem.,... All is 100% new, and clean, without using Dot 3 brake fluid prior? If it has, flush and bleed the entire system with denatured alcohol or something suitable.....keep us posted, until this is resolved.

The last flywheel I had resurfaces was machined on the total surface not stepped, that must be wear. I used a 9 1/4 inch clutch too, on a 1951 Canadian Plymouth bell and 3 speed trans. The only difference in Canada Chrysler used the 8 bolt crank and flywheel on all flathead 6 engines. Stepped, not sure about that idea. I would find an old tyme shop, with an old machinist....

Here Paul, this WW2 Army Foot locker has been my truck tool box for a while, but recently it has had a transformation. It had been painted latex hunter green over what looked like flat black, stripped it down with the intentions of painting it to match my truck. But the old wood patina look won over, and I shot clear over it, the hardware is wrought iron black, the handles and hasp, thought of you on this project, not really my "cup of tea" Wife likes it, Son hates it....LOL PS it may get painted over yet....dble LOL

You can use a Mopar alt and regulator, just have a wide belt pulley installed at an auto electric shop. Or a GM 10SI 1 wire alt with a wide belt pulley, either you should be able to order from North American sources. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Alternator-5-8-Inch-Wide-Alternator-Belt-Pulley-Plain,1868.html https://alternatorparts.com/10si-all-in-one.html

hey Man, looks like I used up my daily limit of "Likes", so will tell you I like this, and look forward to the build. The aforementioned HAMB member is doing fine work, but using a Canadian 201, his manner is a tad caustic, but that's another story....

Montana like Saskatchewan or Alberta, and my home province, ground is frozen 4-5 months a year, Montana is dry, probably a treasure trove of old cars/trucks....

Enjoying the posts guys, keep em coming especially the "hotrod" stuff. There is Dumprat on the HAMB, he is building his 34 Ford p/u with a Chrysler powered flathead, his work is nice too. This decal says it all, just received it from Tim Kingsbury, it is proudly displayed on the Fargo...

10 degrees according to the damper, this could be out, set it to the highest vacuum, and back off slightly, set yur idle mixture screw the same way, then set idle speed, go for a ride, see what you have. Set yur points first, check all plug gaps too, then tune as described, then go for a drive and see. if pinging like a bugger, then there is an issue......

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1613851

4mula, that sounds like not a pleasant experience, and too bad it happened, but was the "oil" causal or a co contributing factor with a problem with the "bearing" itself. Did this happen on fresh start up, did you use an assembly lube, did the oil pump get primed?

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1826448

I use whatever is on sale for synthetic, and have never ever had an issue with Pennzoil, even Canadian Tire blend, Mobil, you name it, not fussy, but it gets changed regular and often. I have read and heard all the bunk BS on this oil or that oil being inferior, doing this damage or that damage. Oil that is degraded, sludgy, burn or 2-3 litres/quarts low are what kill engines. Hell, Motomaster Supreme or Wallyworld Tech oil is okay, if changed when necessary. Driving habits, really count, some people just destroy engines, transmissions and differentials, they are just plain hard on motor vehicles. So will be buying whatever synthetic oil that is on sale this week at Canadian Tire

Cheaper oil versus more expensive whether conventional or synthetic, the cheaper causing more sludge, not sure about that. I do know this, as my daily drivers, are 90% highway, at speeds over 60 mph, with a duration of at least a 1/2 hour each trip, do not get sludge, on cheaper oil, expensive oil, or synthetic oil. My engine is up to temp, oil is up to temp, it's those short drives, in colder whether that likes to create sludge that I have seen. I will say the oil will of course degradate, but at what mileage, what usage, weather and outside temps, all relevant. I am currently using pennz oil 5W20 synthetic in my 2015 ram, and same in Wife's 2006 Torrent but 5W30, my 2005 Caravan with 285000 has CT Formula 5W30 oil. All are now due for an oil change, as well as my 2013 Polaris Quad, Lawn tractor, mowers tillers, gonna be busy....all are getting on sale oil and Wix filters, truck is getting Klondike 10W40 oil. I never try to convince anybody on "oil preference", to each their own, 1 thing is for sure, regular and often oil change, make for a longer living engine

clean oil that is changed often, and about anything you can buy these days, will be light years ahead of 1940/50s motor oils. I do not see the need for straight weight oils, use either 10W30 or 10W40 which is in it now... but you will be told by the masses your need "non detergent", "tons of ZDDP", straight weights, or multi viscosity, or Lucas additive or STP additive and the list goes on and on......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

Jeff, while Winnipeg and the Capital region is similar to Omaha Nebraska and area, so have a lot of traffic lights, many lanes with tons of weekend shopping traffic, and a general pain in the ass. I will go into the city soon for the more urban video.....LOL

Yes the country and low traffic areas can be nice and relaxing, as well as scenic. But a lot of the Guys on here live in busy urban areas like the LA area, I think it would be cool to see some videos of an old Pilot House or a Plym or Ddoge car, bombing down the freeway, something different..

Shel, just to let you know, I never have to follow the procedure you have just mentioned from home, at work yes, but at home never. Wonder why??

Here you go Bob,

You know, what I would like to see, is? Members on here making videos driving on the freeways of LA, Chicago, Houston,DC, or the New Jersey Turnpike, something lively compared to my old hicksville stuff..........LOL

Here ya go, went for a drive, in the 2nd video, you will see some nosalgia "skin", I honestly did not do that on purpose, but the camera/phone, found it on it's own......LOL

Here you go, OEM suspension, engine, trans and modern 3.23 diff. \I also have found it tough a few times in really tight spots, but mostly not, and not a big deal for me, but can see this as a problem for others.

Again, I have to agree, this stock suspension front end, good king pins, tie rod ends, steering box, leaf springs and hangers, add a an anti-sway bar, and the "Cats Pajamas". With a disc brake kit, this is a rugged basic suspension, as per Flaming on some leaf spring removal, lowering the "center of gravity" somewhat, or better yet an anti-sway bar, reduces roll. Driving yesterday, with really no weight in the box, ( the less added weight the better for more power), road very much like the bigger trucks I used to drive back in the 1980s delivering Meat, the truck sorta feel, very adequate, and simple too boot. This style of front end, in premium condition can handle a big V8 no problem, why shouldn't it, big trucks have the same and do it all the time... okay I will add this, and it isn't a slam either, a lotta of guys, maybe younger guys, simply cannot live without , IFS, power steering, bagged suspensions, power this and power that, and want there old car or truck to look like one, but handle and perform like a 2000s vehicle, there I said it, and that's okay if you are this category.

Yes this certainly is a possible scenario. These engines, especially the smaller 201,218, worn out, might have only 50-60 hp at the wheel and the torque thrust way down. Now my truck, has a 228, or 237, have not verified for sure, but the stroke is 4 1/4, so either one, always thought it was a 250, before the stroke measurement. A fresh 250 or 265 with some hop up stuff will no doubt boost things a lot more, this should apply to a 218 or 230 SB too. Sometimes this is not a cheap endeavor, some guys don't see the monetary investment when they can join the masses with an LS SBC, I am not 1 of those thinkers. I have 3.23 gears, so cruising at 65-70 mph is easy, the front end springs and steering are in decent form. However, getting to speed, from 40 mph to 60 mph, is slow, the 3.23 gears, an engine a bit tired perhaps, add a hill or head wind, and cars lined up behind a guy, spells stress......LOL I am very lucky, as I can drive mostly in very low traffic situations in my immediate area, and avoid the busier areas too. But in some areas, the Phoenix area, the LA area, and many others in Canada or the USA, requires a vehicle to be safe and to fit in so to speak. Driving on the freeways in and around LA going 50-55 mph, unless traffic is jammed up and crawling aint going to be that special old car/truck drive experience. The old technology ride is not for everyone, sometimes not sure it's for me either.....LOL