55 Fargo

While this is a fun and interesting thread, my own speeds rarely go over the speed limits, and when they do it's usually because it would not be wise to not "go with the flow". But having said that, I tend to drive on the slower side, and can get away with it in these parts, just ask my 14 YO son......LOL Seriously, for my truck, driving 60-65 i good enuff for me getting to that speed or at times passing slow drivers is more important to all out full speed.So the New Jersey Turnpike I would not cut it, as with a multitude of other roadways. Now Bizquick, I like you find driving these old trucks at speed not a problem they steer and handle quite well when all is in good shape, I do not see the need to clip it, as a lot of others feel the need to do. Th Mopar cars of the 40s 50s, handle like dreams compared to theier counter parts, especially when the shocks are relocated. Today I drove into Winnipeg to see my elderly Father at hospital, multi lane hwy, all lanes covered with fresh snow, except for 1 , I am driving my Hemi Ram at about 60 mph, and the loons are driving an passing on slippery slushy snow, all ina hurry to go nowhere....

Woo Hoo, you da man. So is your speedo accurate? How did she feel, they seem to handle okay at high speed on a good surface and going straight...

Check with Tim Kingsbury AoK Racing teamed up with the famous flathead guru from Pa George Asche Jr. You can certainly overbore past .060, in fact I think Mr Ache has a 230 at either .100 or .125 over. At any rate contact Tim on this forum....

Well yes, but some engines can spin up to a lot higher RPM and they have gearing like 4.11, shorter tires direct drive in 3rd or 4th. Its just these little engines especially the 201s and 218s are barely 95 HP, they can't spin up super high and do not have the HP to carry it through. I drove ,my truck last night 65-70 mph quite easily....

Bottom line a gearing change or more power from your engine. Maybe you should try a an early version NWC T5 with a 4.03 1st gear and .86 final drive

Well you are correct on the crazy drivers are everywhere. When you complete your truck and it is on the road, it now is a completely different set of engineering, a lot more power, upgraded steering and suspension, but the crazy drivers are still there with you at 80 mph? BTW when do you suspect you will be driving your truck, or are you on the road already. Now whether you can go 60 or 80 mph, the risks are always looming on a busy multi lane freeway, these trucks whether stock like mine or modified like your are not what you want to crash with, whether you have a flathead 6 or big V8 and bagged suspension...

Yes , with a stock little 218 or 230, or in Canadian built trucks, some were 218,228, then 250 all long blocks. But I agree some type of gearing change is what will allow these old trucks the ability to run with the "big dogs" somewhat. Without arguing there will be some who will have 4.11 rear ends and 31 inch tall tires who can drive at 60 mph and be comfortable, so be it. Its not just a problem of getting 1 of these trucks to 70 mph, but how long does it take to get there, and what hazards do they create at the same time. I am glad you are moving toward an acceptable gain to where you need to be Jeff, and I commend you for using your truck as a daily driver. I would use mine as one too, but a few things are an issues, I live on a filthy gravel road 3 miles from pavement, so when raining or snowing, the truck would be destroyed. Winter weather, salt snow and slush, not a good combo, then it will be cold like you have never seen my friend unless you lived in ND or Montana. Just today, my 24 mile commute to work, thick dense fog, and I mean thick, temps at around 25f, high moisture, wet highways that are glare ice. I had to drive my Hemi ram at 30 mph at times, not a fun drive.....PS you met Thomas the train.....LOL

Well Jeff meet "Thomas" Yes 3.23 is a bit too high, for sure, others use closer to 3.0 and do not mind Reg Evans for one. Now the difference between my truck and yours is this, weight mine is a 108 wb truck, so most likely a 1000 lbs lighter. Next I have a long block engine, not a deal breaker as it is rated at 110hp, add in the dual carbs and exhaust, and maybe 115-120 hp. So now there you have a much lighter truck modified, should make up for the less than optimal gearing, with my current gearing, having 150-200hp would be much nicer. So without merging on to beating a dead horse, think not much more can be stated...

Keep on "chugging" Thomas..........LOL

Last Word??? or final Opinion.....LOL We will always have our differing ideas and what suits or own particular situation. I know Jeff is not 100% happy with his trucks power and performance on occasion, and I can certainly relate. I do believe in his case and mine, we both need more HP, to deal with modern high speed traffic, hills road conditions etc. Some or a lot of guys and maybe Todd you are in this category, slow drives, small 2 lane highways city/urban streets only or what have you. The there are those who want to drive daily or very often, on freeways and interstates etc, a sucked out engine struggling to get to 60 mph or to hold that speed becomes a dangerous vessel. Now this is not to cause an argument, but different strokes for different folks and many on here are okay driving 50-55 mph to get ice creams or Sonic burgers on a Sunday. To each there own, but in many cases and mine included my tired old 228 doesn't have enough power for a modern high traffic Interstate......

Put in a new zerk or correct bolt........... PS make sure your differential vent is open and not sticking or plugged too, that is another source of mitigating leaks..

Yes I would tend to agree, when shifting from 1:1 to .07:1 @60 mph you would be below 2000 rpm, on a level highway and not much wind okay, but inclines higher winds not as good. The other trans a lot of members use, " oh hang on is gotta be that ole T5", some have .86 for the overdrive reduction that type of gearing would or should work well. These engines develop max torque at fairly low rpm 1400-1600 rpm, so the important thing is torque pushing you along too. Now when these engines are modified with a cam with higher lift and duration, multi carbs split exhaust the powerband and torque curves can be much different, but of course there is more horsepower too. I do believe 3.73 gears are great choice, 3.55 liveable, and 3.23 like mine can cause issues on hills and in windy conditions, certainly I would not entertain and overdrive trans with my current gears. But I am running a 228, stock engine except dual carbs/exhaust and she has miles, now same engine rebuilt, shaved head, a much hotter cam, would give it a lot more thrust. Of course I would not do this, as if I am going to spend money would do it on a 265 engine, again no, "replacement for displacement". Jeff, George Asche has a fairly heavy 4 door Plymouth with a heated up 230, and that car moves real quick, inspite of it's weight and all of the stuff George keeps in the trunk. He makes beasts out of these engines...

Well if you look at the RPM difference at speeds over 60 mph, you will see this engine will be spinning a lot less, but still be in the powerband. Why the heck would he want to spin at 3000 RPM when he could spin at 2200 RPM and faster????

I don't think he would have any issues with a 3.73 and the R10, and his tire aspect sounds about right. I don't think your issue is with the 3.55s Jeff, but the weight of your truck, your HP and torque would be a mitigating factor. Your truck with a souped 250-265 would have a whole lot more grunt than your current engine, that is your limiting factor HP and displacement....

Love it, sounds good, I remember driving in So Cal when the nation wide speed limit was 55 MPH, times have changed...

Sounds like things are running well, and yes these engines do seem to like cruising at 2500 versus almost 300 rpm. I have been told by those in the know that the Industrial engines , are cammed for lower rpm torque use. Now this may be specific to applications too, I really don't know. Sounds like you are having fun with her? Are you driving on the Interstate? If so, how did it go at 65 mph?

He is asking about the 6s, but used Fox's 4 cylinder as a reference, at least the way I read it. Now Tim also mentions 2 who have did the "dry sump" before, but it sounds as if they may be deceased now, so possibly how they did it, is gone with them to the Old Mopar shop in the sky. I am not sure if this was the point you are making, and sure Tim will chime in to explain....

Well if you feel it's a fair price go for it. Are you rebuilding the 218 or just doing a timing chain and gaskets? Are you doing rings and/or a valve job? Or if you had a 250 or 265 running I would go with that. The 218 is least amount in the HP department.....

Forget that ridiculous price, try the engine builders in Winnipeg, I was quoted 80-100 bucks to machine a head , or do you mean both the head and manifolds. If yes, that is not too bad I guess Try phoning Norm in Winnipeg on the timing chain set too. I don't know what he has but he may have US or Canadian made and/or NOS

Try Norm at Mid Canada 1-204-475-3399

Plus USD/CDN exchange and shipping, He should be able to save $100 though

Most likely never cut, cut .050 and call it good...

Yup, back to the future you go Doc....Mcfly

Bump for the day shift.....LOL

Good Morning all, just came back from getting some gas and a lottery ticket in the Fargo. As I was driving down the highway, no wind whatsoever, the "Maple Leaf" draped against some flag pole in a farm yard, and got to wondering. Driving at speeds of 55 to 65mph, not much traffic at all, air temp outside very crisp at 16f or -9c, at 50 mph this truck is not working, and is very nice handling, at 60-65 mph, again on a good highway handles and steers very well, bit with more wind noise, engine and I think the old 4 spd trans are noisy too. I do not think on a straight and level highway, an IFS would be all that much different in the feel of things. On a bumpy, winding road or city streets would no doubt be a huge difference, or for panic stops and swerves too. Now engine and RPM noise, at 50 mph around 2000 rpm, very quiet, at 55-60 mph 2500 rpm, quite a bit more noise, and beginning to sound busy. I do not know how some cruise at 3000 RPM plus, it's gotta be busy, have not ever got to that on the highway yet, close but not quite. I am venturing to guess at 2200-2400 rpm, these engines would be happiest and in the right power band. I do know with my 3.23 gears, if I am cruising slowly and shifting through all gears no big deal, but if I am in hurry getting onto a busy highway, got to make sure I do not shift too early through the gears, or lose some powerband , because I might dip below 1600 rpm or so. Now I know these engines make max torque at a fairly low RPM, but for getting to speed, you need some rpm to avoid a bit of lag time. Anyone else notice these things with your trucks or cars?