55 Fargo

It is coming from the pan area, not sure if iy is the rear main, most likey it will be part of the problem. Now this engine is a 1951 model, so not sure gain, if the seal can be removed in it's entirely witha sneaky pete, or ifthis calls for the flywheel to comeoff, inthe latter, will not remove upper seal, just lower seal. I do think the pan is the culprit from the way she leaks. The diff leaks a bit, need to replace pinion seal, but will check all fluids as I always do beroe any driving season and throughout driving season. Thanx guys for the info......fred

That is a good plan of attack Greg,the belts and hoses are new, I have really good oil pressure, when it's real hot in summer,she will run a bit hot, especially if going with the a strong tail wind, but she stays around 175 -180 most of the time on hot days.......

Hi Ed and Aero, my engine has miles on her, the diff has miles too, the engine leaks a little more oil than I would like, I have to fix that this spring. She runs well enough, could use new tires, lots of new things, but lots of old stuff too. The fuel pump is old old old, and I have not replaced it as of yet. I don't want to go on a long distance cross country trek, but would like to go with others on a cruise of a couple hundred miles would be nice. I do tend to drive slow, at about 55 mph, I have a 3spd trans and 3.73 rear end in my 3500 lb Chrysler Club Coupe.......Fred

Hi all, what does everyone think is the best practice for determing whether there old Mopar is a worthy of a longer drive ie more than 50 to 100 miles. I am interested in going for a bit of a longer cruise, but often wonder if she is fit enough for the task. I have had not too much trouble on the ditances I have driven about 50 to 60 miles round trip at the most so far. So what might any of us look at before embarking on a longer road trip with our cars, especially if the drive trains have miles on them......Fred

Well first of all, you need to determine which tranny you have, fluid drive is not the trans, it is the fluid coupler between engine and clutch, so no direct connection to engine. The 2 trans that were used for these fluid drives for this year of Desoto were the 3 spd trans, with a longer input shaft to go through extra length that is required to connect this system. The you have the M5 semi-auto trans, it has 2 ranges and reverse, hi range is in the 3 spd position on the colum shifter, and lo-range is in the 2nd or up psotion on the column shifter. Basically you can drive in either range, depending on conditions, so standing still you could shift into high range, take foot of the clutch, engine does not stall, as the fluid coupler makes this possible, then you drive to about 25 mph, take foot off gas, the trans will shift from 2nd gear, to 4 th gear in high range. If you tromp the gas peddle, it will downshift, for passing etc. You need to stop , no problem trans shifts back to 2nd gear, you drive away like an auto trans, to 25 mph take foot offf gas, trans clunks into 4th again, thus nicknamed clunkomatic trans. Desoto used the marketing name, Tip Toe shift. So you need to see what trans you have, then what condition, and get advice from more learned people I can put you in touch with in Canada. Let us know what trans you have in the car now, and see what you want to do. Even if you convert to regular clutch and 3 spd trans, save your fluid drive and trans, it can always be converted back.....fred

All Canadian built flathead long block 6s have the 8 bolt crank, never seen one different, to date. Chrysler Canada never built a 23 inch engine, they built only the 25 inch block, with varying displacements for different models of cars/trucks. I think he does not want the fluid drive, but if he as the fluid drive and 3 spd trans, all he really needs is a good engine, then it may work fine. Depending on the condition of the fluid coupler, clutch trans, all this will need a going over and the right time to machine flywheel replace clutch, and make sure fluid coupler is okay.

If you decide to buy and install a flathead 6 , dry clutch, and 3spd trans, and the donor engine is a 25 inch block, this is what is involved, as I have this on my car. The rear engine (actually clutch housing mount), needs to be moved forward to compensate for the shorter distance.When moved into the correct position, your engine will bolt right in at the front mounts, and will now bolt up at the clutch housing mounts too. Next the shifter linkage should work fine with adjustment, as mine did on my 47 Chrysler. The clutch rod, that was used with the bigger fluid drive, needs to be shortened, again not a real big deal. Driveshaft, you need to have the correct length, I took mine from the donor car where engine and trans came from a 1951 Plym. Other considerations, what the current diff ratio you have, 3.54 to 3.90 would be good, but 4.10 gets a little busy after 50 mph. Now if your donor engine is a 23 inch block, that would need more consideration, not sure that would work as well. Investigate and ponder this as much as you can before you commit to buying and installing anything. Personally I would find a 25 inch block, then get a dry clutch and 3 spd trans either as a unit or seprately, or add a R10 OD trans or go with a trans conversion to the 727 or a T5 speed right off the bat. But ultimately it is up to you and your future driving needs with this car...Welcome BTW PS I see your in Canada, so most if not all flathead 6s you find here will be a 25 inch block, let me know the engine numbers and will help you determine which size it is. I would try and find a 251, if you can, as so many up here with the dry clutch, was 218 or 228, nothing wrong with them , its just the 251 has more HP...

No either a girlfriend or neighbour is taking the pic, or possibly Hubby if he is not at work, so those 2 girls are fighting in the house over the B&W TV abnd 2 channels, or Barbie Dolls,or the Hula Hoop or some darn thing....

I see Con Way trucks rolling in and around Winnipeg Canada all the time, wondered about them, sounds likea good freight mover. Me being in the correctional field, when I hear a name like Con way, I think, well you know what.....LOL

My Only experence with the POC, is Lanny Knutson, Editor of the Magazine, Lanny and I met In Winnipeg last fall at the Mopar show, he is a fine Gentleman, and was just recently in touch with him via email. Lanny lives nearby, so hope to see him at more future events, I probably may not join the POC as I have a 47 Chrysler, but you never know, would enjoy the magazine at least....Fred

Hi Joe, I concur, things were getting out of hand. Too bad wonder how many potential new members with or without valuable knowledge may have shyed away. I really hope Normspeed returns, maybe a thread should be started to invite him and any other estranged members to return. And I hope you don't exit Joe, enjoy your posts and threads.....

Theres 1 just like this about 5 miutes from where I sit, the owner has many cars, this one is sitting up high off the ground, it is black in color and very complete......

Nice engine, now since you have split exhaust, and what 2bbl carb, why not go custom breather. I am not being critical, your oil bath will blend in a little better , when your adaptor base is painted black too. It's up to you, if it were my engine, and now it is custom, would go custom breather too....

Hotrod Deluxe, Oldskoolrodz,Hemmings Classic cars, have been my staple.

Sorry to hear this sad news, condolences to the family, I knew John was not well, as he told me an PM a few a year or so back....Fred

I am located 18 miles north of Winnipeg, 5 miles northwest of Selkirk Manitoba, on Fillmore Road in the RM of St. Andrews off Hwy #9. Nice to have you on here fellow Prairie Canadian....

Not sure what will result with being supercharged. But Earl Edgy has only got his 32 Chrysler salt racer to maybe 220 hp, at this point, and that is fuel injected I thinks...Fred

Yes this I have heard of sleeving when necessary, My Uncle has a 332 Hemi, that 1 cyl needs sleeving, that engine would certainly be worth saving...

Hi Johnny, will see if I can get her loosened up, doubt there is a busted up cyl. This engine looks not too bad, liter camber is super clean, no sludge. The engine was rebuilt in 1956, .030 pistons/and or rings, all bearings standard. The nice thing, it is a 47, 251 Royal C 38S engine, just what I want. I have a 218 long block in my car, it was from a 1951 Canuck Dodge, it is rated at 98 HP, the 251 is rated at 115 hp, so 17 more HP would be nice. The one thing about a Canuck 218 long block is this it has a 3 3/8 bore, this can be bored to about 3 1/2 if ever need be and still be in spec, at .060 over a 251s 3 7/16 bore. The stroke on a 218 long block is 4.0, on a 251 it is 4 1/2 inches. The 218 is a shorter stroke, not sure if this means it can take more rpm or not........Fred

Good lead core solder is the best I believe. Watch he doesn't "flip us the bird", instead of the finger......LOL

My 2/0 Battery cable and master cut-off switch, would like to install a switch on firewall sometime, more convenient...

Hey Shel, did you make this with spirograph, in the 60s...

The unfortunate course of events that follow banishment of members. How long is this reprimand? Something was going to give, too bad it did come to this. There can always be a welcome back, when the suspension period is complete, as long as the affected parties want to return,and I am sure Don will be welcomed "home", when He returns......

Joel, that truck looks great, is that Van Sickle paint on this one. I need to do all my stainless, my rocker trims are beat-up, how much can these itmes be fixed again?.....Fred

2/0 welding cable professionally made at an auto electric shop, with a decent battery is the ticket for 6 volt systems, if you are running 12 then go lighter, as heavy cables such as 2/0 are not necessary for a 12 volt system. If my system had been converted, would have used 1 s for battery cables....Fred