55 Fargo

Went to move my 55 today, first time moving itself in 6 years. The clutch will not fully engage, and therefore not getting too much power to trans and rear wheels. Now this clutch may be old and need replacing, but was working 6 years ago. I have not played with any linkage, so not sure exactly why she will not engage, so drove her back intot he garage. The plus side, she is running very well, engine temp 160 or so, and good oil pressure, not burning oil either.....

Hi David, it would bea 3.54, and they came in many 1946-48 Chrysler C38 with the M5 semi-auto trans. They have 10 spline axles, just remove the pumpkin from your and install, not a real difficult job. You could also go with a 3.73 diff, that was available too. I know where to get a 3.54 but you are just too far from me, and the shipping would be unreal. So check out any old Chryslers with the 4 spd M5 trans, the 3.54 was a standard gear ratio for those cars. I am lucky, have a modern Mopar 8 1/4 inch diff with 3.23 gears, 251 engine and 4 spd trans in my 55 Fargo.....Good Luck

See your up North now Tommy, hope all is well, gonna have a White Christmas this year, with some snow....

Thanx Keven

Thanx

I have the Model 65 Heater, needs to be restored, core is in okay shape, it does not have a motor and fan. I am planning to retrofit some type of 12 volt motor and fan, has anyone done this, and what did you use?....thanx Fred

Yah I am holding up okay too, can climb, but not crazy about heights. One thing I have done lately, is push the truck around a lot on thegravel driveway, and have hurt my right forearm and shoulder. I actually used a 4X4 post to lift the whole back end off the ground, using my shoulder, that is why it now hurts......LOL PS ever try 2 to 3 hours of walking in the middle of the night, which I do every time I am on night shift, now that is fun...

Yup, using regular green ethylene glycol, no the GM dexcool stuff, works well for me....BTW, not worried about lowering the engine temp up here this time of the year, maybe in summer, just an added note

I just turned 50 Rob, closing in on you:p.......

Filled system in the volume of 14-15 quarts, as there is no heater installed yet. The engine ran really well for the duration, throttle linkage a bit sticky, but its okay, will cure. that later. I did install a 160 t/stat, engine ran up to 185, then opened, and settled to a nice 160, ran really well, but no higher speed tests yet. The 1 item I need to deal with immediately, my fuel pump bowl took on some rusty sediment, need to clean it out, and add another filter prior to the fuel pump, I will need to drop the tank this spring and clean out, the usual....

Now Don, my Name may be Billy Tucker not Silly^&^%ker....I get yur point

Yah it does matter Don, because to Me its a reference point, ie 15 quart capacity, and if I can only introduce 12.99999 quarts, then I may be looking at having some crud or rust scale build up, just wanting to know the capacity for this particular cooling system. I did do a search, and did try to go to the Pilothouse menu, but could not access anything, Geesh Don have a nice cup of coffee, and enjoy the day.....LOL

Thank you, would imagine should deduct 2 quarts for no heater...

Anyone happen to know what the cooling system capacity is for a 1955 Dodge truck with 6 cylinder engine. My current set-up, has no heater core, and I am thinking it should be in the 12 to 14 quart capacity without a heater core......thanx Fred

Hell no, they done scalped this sucker, instead of a moderate shave, .030 would have been plenty. Sorry to hear this has happened...

Yup!

Hi Randy, the ballast resistor I am using is not a thermal senstive type, but rather just a voltage reducer. When cold I get a voltage drop, once the current goes through the ballast to the coil. Believe it or not, this engine starts super easy, and this is without a timing and carb set-up job. I am running old plugs, and used wires, coil and points. but man does she fire up. I find that pull the choke closed, and crank the 12 volt starter and away she goes. Now it may be different ona hot summers day, and when the coil could use an extra bolt of electricity, but for now it will be fine. Will use a solenoid swtich if I decide to go with a star-up circuit, but od have a foot stomper start. Now this has been beaten enough, and will leave this thread alone. No point in pouting, dang Santa might be watching, hey cheer up Black Friday this week......

Randy, for the ballast to function, it must have 12 volts power in, then reduced voltage out to coil, as simple as that, bypassing the ballast on start-up, should not affect the ballast or it's longevity, if anything, it will affect the coil itself. I may just leavit as is for now, running through the ballast at all times. My big plan is to install a slant 6 electronic igntion and distributor, which requires some modding, but should work well...

I was thinking about going with the solenoid switch route, but I do have a stomp switch. I figure with a circuit from the crank position on the ignition switch direct to the coil, can also provide 12 volts to the coil, and once started, you release the key, and then it goes through the ballast resistor to coil, does that make sense? Do I need a solenoid switch with a foot stomp start, I am going to install a battery cut-off switch, as the foot stomp style starter, has immediate power, when the battery is hooked up, and the key is off, it wont start, but will crank, not the greatest thing, with Kids around....

Just dropped the oil out of this engine, although it was dark, it was super clean, not gunk or particles, or moisture, old oil looked very clean. I refilled with a cheaper brand 10 W 3, and will change this oil too, after a short time. It is cool here now so this oil should be okay. I adjusted the throttle linkage, it idles down okay. I am going to fill cooling system, soon, and adjust timing carb etc. If all goes okay, I will be able to move this truck in and out of the shop, as needed. This truck starts very easy with manual choke and 12 volt system, I plan to create a direct circuit for the coil, around the ballast for start-up only, that will spark her up. Forgot how nice and loud these old flatheads howl without mufflers. If its dry next week, will take a drive in her, just on my road.....

Hey Thanx Chris, and yes by all means, when in the Winnipeg area, lets get togther. Cross Lake, thats up north country. Don't think my Truck will be ready in time for the high arctic tour, not real sure how good this engine is yet either. I do my trnas has some wear and damage, like 1st and 3rd, are a little chewed up. The mopar 8 1/4 rear end, with 3.23 gears seems to be in good form....

Hey all, posted this yesterday on the car side. I have been a member there for years, and figure I belong over there, but this is about my 1955 Dodge Fargo starting up for the 1st time. She has 50 psi oil pressure, and the new 1 wire GM alt works well. I still have to fill her up with coolant, and of course set timing, carb etc. Here is the link I posted, complete with You Tube video of the 251 engine coming to life for the 1st time in 6 years..... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=29934

The rebuilders tag on my 47 C38S Royal 251 engine, this is the engine I got unstuck this summer......

Have these on the 55 Fargo, and another set on the 1 tn frame out back, glad i have these on the trucks, but would like a pair on the 47 Chrysler too someday...