55 Fargo

Switches for what? Fluid Drive and a 3spd trans has no switches! Unless he has an M5 or M6 trans, with switches, for those trans.

Have the front clip stripped and primered. The areas behind the grill were not done to well. When I do the full rehap of the truck, will take off front clip and blast all the back and tough to get areas. I have not done much dent removal, no filler work y, and there is no filler whatsoever on this truck. Here are the pics, good enough for an old beater.... well for now that is.

Tim, I think I could handle some 26 at night and 60-65 during the day right now. At least I could drive the 47 all winter long for the most part. I do have a likin for a long hot summer, like you folks, just not sure I could handle the intense Georgia heat and humidity for 3 months, but heck the other 9 are not tough to handle.....

3m rust and paint stripping discs with built in mandrel to attach to drill. these work great, also 80/100grit sandpaper dsics on DA sander.....

Up here, you would be expected to still weld out side,many big construction projects with steel and welding going on, progress does not stop in the North, in cold winter weather. I figure tshirt weather will be here in around April 1, when its about 50 outside... Pics for Tim Adams, and anyone else who loves winter cold weather....LOL Stripping the rust and old paint off the front of the 55 fargo, temps at -11f and -33f windchill, well at the YWG, but here it is about -5f and -25f windchill

Well sure it does, but its a relative term when its now about 6 below outside. Even at 10 below, I have found ice melting on a dark surface with a south exposure.... Here the grill bars all nice and painted, dent and dings included.....LOL

Hi Joe, yup we gots to do, what we gots to do. Today I have no more than 1 minute tops, then back in, great for doing small parts etc. I do not want to shoot this in the house, and do not want to bring the garage up the 60s today. I have to shoot primer on Saturday morning, but it is supposd to be a lot warmer that day too. I am also just going to primer truck, paint grill bars bumpers,frame, engine etc. This truck will also get the full"rehab", later on........

Hey all you Southern Guys, this Northern Guy(Canuck on top of it), had to spray paint the grill bars for the 55 Fargo. The grill was sand blasted yesterday, and wanted coverage over it. But it is 20 below this morning, sunny and super clear, with the windchill it is close to-40, and not going to havea wrm up to 25f on Sunday. Anyway heres how I did it, walk out the door with grill bar in 1 hand, Tremclad Pro Super Fast Dry in the other, and shoot on the rust paint. Walk right back in, place grill bars in isolated room, that is ventilated to outside. I did 3 coats, after a 15 minute flash. This new Tremclad Pro series made by Rustoleum, dries super fast, it smells like automotive acrylic enamel, as it must have a lot of xylene in the solvent base.... pics, later on will do the front of the grill bars.....

Thanx Merle, have tried the spraying around intake, did not notice any rpm increase. It is like 20 below here right now, and getting colder, by the New York second. so have not had any time to check much out on this problem. I have been stripping the fropnt end of the truck, in my shop which is insulated, it is not bad, but have not had the heat running much in there today. I did go and try and start the truck, ran the $hits, immediately shut it off. I then pulled sparkplugs, all severely carbon fouled, so cleaned them off. When I went to install the #3 sparkplug, the top of it twisted off, not sure if it had a crack, but it twisted off. In my 30 + years of wrenching and changing spark plugs this has never happened, I have dropped and broke plugs, but did not break the tops off any by placing the socket over and just starting to turn it tight. Started engine, ran fine, so I dunno yet, what is the problem. I do plan to install new points, another this time brand new coil, and new spark plug wires. I really don't have a clue yet what is going on, but I am having fun, and learning something too......take care

Concourse, #1 and 2 resto, body off frame is the way it is done. On my #3-4 Chrysler coupe, left body on, was still able to doo all work under car, clean and paint floors and frame. If you do not pull body off the frame, remove front clip, great access to front end and front frame.You can do all the work to the front fenders, hood etc off car. You can take off the doors and trunk lid, and do all work and paint that way too. Its your project, your time, and your goal, good luck whichever way you decide to go with it.....

Although the paint looks all faded, it is really a good layer of dust on it. The paint is Centauri, the owners Brother was learning to shoot paint, and although it is not my flavor, the paint job was done quite well. The nice thing is this car could almost just be wetsanded, and sealer and paint could be shot right over. No dent/dings, to deal with, no rust work, some sanding, maybe a little glaze and new paint over it all.........

We used to have a Late Great Member, who also did not leave the driveway much with his P15. Hope Norm'scoupe is doing well in His next world journey, and maybe he even has an old Mopar with Him.....

Age 3, 1959 Ford, 6 cyl 3 speed on the tree. LOL. Would sit right beside, Dad, and knew exactly when to shift the gears. Learned to drive, on a 1968 Old Vista Cruiser, at 16

Hey that looks good man, hope my steering wheel repairs come out that well. Hey 52 Chevy, still have the 216, a friend of mine has been saving 1 for My Son, it is in decent form. He painted it about 10 years ago, the body was super straight, His Wife never drove it, it is My Sons unless we don't want it. Here is a pic....

Thanx but nope, my gas cap is vented....

well Ed, this condition would certainly creat problems, not sure it is the real culprit, but certainly needs replacing. My snow blower once, had a losse intake, it would sputter run rough, once heated would smooth right out. Once I got the intake bolts to stay in place, all has been good. I am not ruling out stuck valve(s), but why would it start out of the blue, you would think, the valves would have been sticky right from the first time I fired this engine up, after 6 years.....

True, but wet around an intake port is a problem, and will create a vaccuum leak and seal up when the metal warms up. The symptoms are in that direction too. You cannot have an intake port wet all around it without some effect.....

You might be onto to something, just noticed rear intake going into block was slight wetness(gas) around it, stud nuts are tight. Could this gasket be toast and causing this. This manifold I suspect has not been off in a long time..........Fred

Okay, since last post on this thread have done following. Carb rebuilt, and verified to be okay -new spark plugs -new coil resistor and coil functioning well However, this engine is intermittently running very rough, when cold started, and once warmed up slightly, all seems well. It has no power, when this is happening, if you step on the gas not much, sputtering, running rough, no power, but no backfiring either. I think it maybe be a stuck, or bent valve, or sticking lifter. Not sure why this would happen after the engine had been running for a month or so prior, you would think, it would have been like this right from the first time I got this engine running. Anyone have any hunches......

YEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAA. Let The Games begin

Think you should call yourself FastFreddie, you sure caught on this vendor fast enough, BTW welcome the forum........1 of the other Freds

Now thats original:p............LOL

Well thats how it sounds, and how we in the English speaking world pronounce it. But in the Old Testament, originally written in Hebrew dzoub,translated to English, it is the "Book Of Job", not sure if the King James Version changed to Jobe

Job...........