55 Fargo

The way the weather is here today, seems like north of the circle. Good thing I have a nice insulated heated building, or I would be getting this thing going, this time of the year. If I have time, going to fill with collant tomorrow, and see what she does...

Thanx, I really could not have done it, without the help for this Fourm and it's Members. Tim Adams was especially helpful, in troubleshooting the distributor problem.

Here ya go, filled gas tank with some fuel, primed the carb, and got fuel up to carb right pronto. Oil pressure is stable, was about 50-55, GM 1 wire alt, started to charge right quick too. Please excus truck, as she is still in raw c form, she actually looks better in daylight outside, rough now, will be nice later.

Set it slightly lower say to 1/8 inch, to allow for expanding modern fuel to help with hard hot starts....

Greg if anyone can, it might be Bill Watson.....

The tank and lines seem to be in good shape, as blew them out with air, opened the drain, it was realy quite clean, I am more worried about leaks, from either gas or glycol on my garage floor in the winter, as it is here as of today, it seems like winter. I may just use a jerry can I had rigged for the 47, and run a rubber fuel line ito it from the fuel pump, and disconnect the fuels lines for now. Thanx Rob, and your right this isa hobby not a survival challenge.....LOL

Hi all, had a another close look at the diz, noticed for the 1st time, the incoming power from coil, through diz body, and to the little braided wire and clip, there was a contact causing a short to ground. Tim A you were 100% bang on, on this long distance diagnosis, many thanks Tim. I corrected this immediately, went and place the diz back in the engine, and turned it over, it fired right up, but just for a few sceonds, as there was only a bit of gas poured down the carb about an hour ago. So now there is spark, the points aren't too great so will replace. Now what to do next, fill tank with gas, or use small fuel cell, not sure yet. Once I get her running for a minute or so, will need to add antifreeze, and check all out. Tim any advice, on what should be my next step......Fred

Listen, thanx to all who have tried to help with this thread. Especially many thanx to Tim Adams. I have tried to follow instructions given by Tim, this distributor, does not use the points with tensioner clip and copper colored thin that gives juice to the points. I cannot find where the short is, or what is grounding in this distributor, it is a 1955 or 56 type. I am throwing in the towel for now, actually am quite stressed about it, and do not feel good physically as a result. Nobody up here seems to know a friggin thing about them. I am not sure what course of action will be next, but will not create a long dragged out thread for it, will post something when there is success in getting spark, and the engine to run. Thanx, here are some pics of the sumbeach, that is driving me crazy.....

Okay, the point on this distributor, are not the type with the tension and other copper colored connect. It is of 1 only, I have 3 distributors, and there all different, this has me stumped, have tried all of what Tim is suggesting, and still no spark. The funny thing is the 1 ton truck doz, doesn't even have a vaccuum advance, not sure what that thing is from. I am throwing in the towel for tonight... I will post pics later to illustrate what I am trying say

Done this already

Okay here goes battery to starter, starter to ammeter, ammerter to ignition switch battery terminal, coil terminal to ballast resistor, ballast resistor to + on coil. Have done the test, removed coil to distributor wire, then grounded terminal from coil to ground, nice big spark from high tension coil wire to ground. The other test, open points, and jump with srewdriver, no spark from coil wire to ground. Have changed points, condensor, and rotor, the little braided wire is in good shape, I have no damn idea what else is the problem.....

Tim, removed cap, and coil high tension wire out of tower, shorted the points, and no spark jumped from end of coil high tension to ground. Not a spark not a short at the points on the screwdriver.

Been there and done it

There is power to the coil through ballast. I have brought #1 cyl to tdc, as lined up with timing marks on dammper. I have the 1 sprakpulg wire at about 700 oclock in the cap. I have no spark at the points, and this old bugger won't fire up. I am just pouring a bit of gas down the carb to try, but no firing, not sure what to do next. I have had the diz out on bench points look good, the little wire inside looks good, connectiosn all seem nice and ight, I am not sure about this.......

thanx coil tests at 2.2 ohms

tried both ways. I have power from ignition to coil, but no power from coil wire to diz, not sure that is correct or not....

Tried engine this morning, with another coil a 12 volt requiring the ballast resistor, there is power from ignition switch through ballast to the coil. Charged battery over night, primed carb, and she truns over well, but will not fire. I have read all the threads related to a "no start" condition, and hope to figure this out soon. Not sure about the distributor, although it has new points, rotor, condensor, and is in super clean shape, it might have not worked for me some time back, but don't remember for sure. So any ideas???

Tried to start engine tonight, no spark, the old coil is most likely the culprit. The rotor, cap are new and in good condition, points are gapped at .020. and my battery has been run down. Not sure what sequence will trouble shoot, and systematically go through the process of elimination. I have the battery on a charger right now. Good news is the oil pressure was jumping up on the gauge......

Just installed an Interstate 12 volt battery. cranked over engine without ignition circuit on, man does 12 volt crank over nice, is faster than 6 volt, that is for sure. The oil pressure started to come up on gauge, and when I did turn key to on, got a slight discharge showing on ammeter , so that must be wired okay. Got help coming over tonight, going to she if the old girl will fire up, and start.....

Hey Chris, you Guys get much snow, I know there is none right here in my spot just north of Winnipeg. Sure could use some good amounts of snow to cover the septic field..........

Well this trans must have the engine rpm drop to 450-500 rpm, before it shifts up. Sounds like you are covering all the diagnosis, I would contiue, and hopefully someone will chime in with more experience to share and help solve the problem. BTW, how did it shift prior to your work on it, and is this trnas not a sotck 46-48 M5 trans which is a little different than the later M6.....

When a distributor has been removed, and the engine has been cranked over, but nothing taken apart, like timing chain or sprockets etc. Does the distributor, not go back in only 2 positions 180 degree opposite. So if you place the cyl 1 to TDC, and the rotor is point to 7 oclock, and the #1 high tension wire starts there, should it not be correct, could it only be out 180 degrees at that point if in wrong?

12 v coil with external ballast resister and 6 volt coil, seems to be 1 in the same....

will find out

Here are 3 pics of the ignition set-up. Yes all is used except for the wire, the distributor cap is almost new as is the point rotor and condensor. The coil is from an early 50s Ford 2 ton it tested at 1.8 to 2 Ohms, the high tension wires are used, the ballast resistor was used on this engine, prior to its being parked for 6 years. The alt wire is only 12 gauge, will change this to 8 or 10 gauge for permanent use. The plastic fuel filter is for temp use only, as I want to see whats going on.