55 Fargo

Manitoba for the most part has plenty of water, and not too deep, there are some areas that require deep wells, and some where the water is too salty to drink. My well and 2 others right in a line about 1/2 mile apart, are around identical depths, and similar quality. This water is a bit hard, but much better than the old well so it appears....

New well was drilled today. 149 feet, cased with 5 inch PVC to 75 feet, this new well is 40 feet from old well.Well was pumpin 40 gpm. Water is pumping to clear, with portable pump. Water has not been tested yet, not much if any iron or taste of iron, raw new water shakes in to soap bubbles in jar, but not sure how hard it is yet . The water does not smell. The rock drilled up was nice clean limestone, heck maybe there is oil a bit further down, or diamonds... The Pics

I figured that fender cover was vintage, looks like real quality. I used some STP last in my truck steering box...

Again doin what she was meant to do. Went to pick up flax straw bales at a farm about 12 miles from home. Temps in 80s, truck runnin a bit warmer, pullin the load with ease....

Hey You, Been an STP promoter since your Motorcyle days Don, do you still secretly pour some down once in a while.....

No shortage of water in a majority of this Province, land of 100000 lakes. Average price $3200 for 120 feet including casing and grouting, $20-$30 a foot after the 120 basic charge. Average wells in my district 60-120 feet, the odd is deeper, going deeper here does not mean better water necessarily

Hi Rick,plan to shock chlorinate, house, pump(it is only 6 months old), and all along, before hookup. Does that make sense?

I dunno, but it's driving me carazier then a bad flathead motor. My Wife will not be impressed if the new well is the same as the old well. I apologize to the forum for this thread, really does not belong on here.....thanx all who have contributed

You know, my pump is new, it is Stainless steel, won't rust, but will get coated with iron and rust after sitting in well for a few years, just disgusting, have seen it myself. The galvinized casing in water with super high conductivity, iron, and hardness, gets a coating, so all water from aquifer passes through this, can only imagine how coated everything is down there. This water smells as a result of iron and iron bacteria.

Hi and thanx, all drillers are within 100-200 bucks, I am using a very reputable outfit, we actually know the people, kids go to school together. THe owner has a good reputation in this area. GOing deeper, is not always better, according to the driller. There are 8 to 10 wells in about a square mile where I live. The 3 newest wells, 1 has no iron, 2 have slight amounts, 2 old wells are loaded with iron, mine is by far the worst of all. We are 3 miles from The Red River of the north, most wells along the banks of that river are iron loaded, not sure why. 8 miles to the west, 1 well owned by folks I know, is crystal clear beautiful water, from a 50 year old well...

Thanx Shel, yes and no, same aquifer, does not always predict 1 way or the other, at least according to those with mulitple wells on property. I have spent and tried many different filtration equipment, iron removers and softeners etc. I am now using a 100000 grain Culligan softener, with 2 pre-filters, it works, but for how long, this stuff is brand new, and has had issues already. My well is cased with galvanized casing,121 feet deep pump is set down about 30 feet, with a high tds, high iron, what do you all think might have happened to its insides over 23 years. My current water, 6 PPM Iron, this has actually fluctuated between 4PPM and 10 + PPM, Hardness 65-80 grains, like cement water. We plan to live here a long time, so spending the $3500 -$4500 for a new well is prudent in the long term. PVC casing is almost exclusively used by well drillers in this province, steel and galavanized have a life expectancy of what 30-40 years, I am approaching that with my well. I have baffled even Culligan experts from Illinois with my well. Most neighbouring wells have much better water, a couple have lousy water, in again old steel cased wells. My huge softener regens 4-6 times per month, at 48 lbs of solar salt each time, not cheap, plus the Res acid treatment and pre-filters. In our case moving is not an option at this point. Again anyone with knowledge and experience please share, also going to search for forums on this topic, I have spent hours researching this topic, and am still scratching my head....thanx

Hey all, my home is supplied with well water, 23 years galavinized casing, lots of water, super hard, very high TDS, and very high in Ferrous Iron(clear when drawn, then turns color, when it hits oxygen), some iron bacteria too. WE are setting up to drill a new well, with PVC casing, and in a different location on our yard. Has anyone done the same, am I gambling too much on this, we are hoping to get better water, not bottled water, but something better. Any experience with similar please apply.... PS wells in my district run 60-140 feet deep, still expensive but not super crazy like some areas where they drill to 500 feet

Nice clean truck, but 13 grand, not from me, even if I had it.. Landmark, about and hour south of my door...

Heres my quick fix new exhaust, plan to make a tail pipe soon, but for now she is wroking well, no leaks and nice and quiet. Cost me about 75 bucks, I did have a piece of straight pipe at home. Yesterday, a local shop I sometime deal with quoting me about 3-4 hunnert, now for this exhaust thats ridiculous, so "F" bomb that idea. Next I was going to order all from Kepitch, but the shipping was insane, again about 250-300 all said and done, and no hardware. So off to Canadian tire for some parts and a Walker 6 inch round muffler, worked out very well...

I am always willing to learn, I have found that some of the socalled "new" body and paint products, are not always better than the old skool stuff, just faster, and maybe more enivironmentally politically correct.

Vinegar is Acetic Acid, much milder than Muriatic or Phosphoric acid, but I guess will do the trick. Do you really find it to be as effective as PORs Metal Ready for washing metal with either rust almost totally gone, or very light, say after sanding or blasting, mostly clean, but give ita wash with an acid prep to get metal and tiny pits treated...

Hey got tons of white vinegar here, gonna try, do you neutralize that. we clean scaled coffee makers with that stuff, and cleans floors and windows too. I really like the Picklex 20( pricey stuff) for light rust, Rust Mort, for heavy stuff, have not tried Naval Jelly in years, might try it again sometime...

If a repair is sealed well from both sides, no moisture or oxygen can get things going again, which caused it in the 1st place. Short strand fibreglass filler is just that fibreglass resin, the strands and is wtaer proof,where regular filler is not.Regular filler polyester resin, talc powder and other ingredients for filling shaping etc. Fibreglass filler, and even Metal filler, is much harder to cut and sand, but is water proof. Rusty metal primer is a great product, especially when mixed wit plain old automotive reducer, and sprayed with spraygun. It has excellent adhesion, great corrosion resistance, very good sealing qualities, and sands nice when cured, you can get a pretty good film build with it too. I have used the following over rusty metal primer, that was fully cured, -all fillers -epoxy primer -2 urethane primer -lacquer based primer -lacquer paints -automotive acrylic enamel once cured this stuff is great, prep is the key, and spraying with gun laying it down in a good film build, is far superior to spray bombs, when doing large panels......

This is what I do, with good results to date. Strip to metal, acid treat(picklex 20), prime with either epoxy primer or plain rusty metal primer. Let rusty metal primer cure well, epoxy cure rate is fast. Use either Evercoat short strand filler, or Evercoat Metal to Metal filler(my choice), then fill, primer/surfacer, blocking etc. I have not used polyester primer yet, but that could be shot over a primered area, with a lot of film build. If were talking about pin holes, or any holes, those sould be welded or even panel epoxy could be used. This type of methods have worked well for me....

The more I see how 3M panel bond works the better I like it. Super strong, seals edge completely, and is nice and neat, and no heat to warp...very strong bond with this 2 part adhesive...

Hi and hope you get this sorted out. The M6 trans can be finicky, and requires the anti-stall, governor, and kick down circuits to function correctly. I saw the pics, and no fault to you, everything takes time, but if your Mechanic left wires like that, I would find another, just my thoughts. Take your time, 1 step at a time, you will get it working well.....

Nice pics, beautiful scenery, enjoyed...

Big Bucks, no budget limitations, pros doing the work=great results. David Freiberger Editor of Hot Rod, did a feature and drive with it. I will say He is a real hands on Guy, with many projects..

Looks good Ed, keep the pics coming....

Thats a good load for the truck, "2500lbs", at speeds of 80-90 kmh, fine, higher speeds, maybe not so much. The issue is handling and stopping, not that the engine can't handle it. Lots of stuff in Canada, for example buy disc brake plates from Old daddy on this forum, buy rest from local parts houses. I gave you a number for Norm, trust me He knows his stuff, ships world wide. I have also bought lots of items in the US, but lots is available in Canada, just depends on what you are sourcing...