55 Fargo

What have you got now, 3.73s, more door would have those or worse 3.90 or 4.10s. Chrysler cars late 40s had 3.54 ,the pumpkin would bolt right into the diff housing. Other option is OD trans or convert to T5 trans. The work looks good...

Install a later model diff say Mopar 8 1/4 with 3.23 or 3.55 gears, and cruise at 60-65 mph. 1950s Borg and Warner R10 3 speed od trans, then go 70 mph down I-15. Others have custom installed 1980s T5 trans from S10 pickups, but then you have a floor shifter, the 3 spd od trans uses your stock on the column shifter and linkage...

Hey you got some talentz there Man:cool:, very interesting custom, you do the work yourself? Wish I was as creative, I generally like my old Mopars stock, but also like nice customs too...

Yup, that will work;), on Christmas eve in Wifes 2007 Torrent had to crack window a bit, too much frost, not sure why this vehicle does this, probably car full of kids, and all the moisture:rolleyes:.. Southern Cal, folks would surely perish:eek:, even if LA had 1 night of 0 temps, what is your record low, about 2:rolleyes:5.... Spent some time in the past in your stomping grounds, Glendora, Covina, Azusa etc

Parts,machining and labor, this would be an average price, some areas slightly cheaper, and some significantly higher. In my part of Canada, about $3000-$3500, for total rebuild, including parts. If i were doing it, i would pull engine, have shop do machining, clean and check block, and do assembly myself, save some money. Do some searches on here, some of the guys have done this very thing.....

Vintage Power Wagons, Terrill Machine in Texas, for engine parts as well as Egge Machine, they make everything engine wise. The average rebuild price seems to be around $2500, rings and valves might be less than 1/2 of that, do some engine rebuild searches on here, plenty of info, from Guys who have done it. How is that seedan moredoor engine, could it be used, or is it stuck or shot? Anyway good luck and welcome to the board....

No lead additive, they have hardened exhaust valve seats, not like the flathead Furds Man.....LOL Whitish colored smoke, oil burnin should be blue, and smell like oil is burnin, maybe you are burnin some antifreeze, is that head gasket leakin. Do the compression test first, report your findings, then figure out a plan of attack. Stay away from the snake oil JipJobXX is suggesting, you don't need another problem, with this engine...

Well that sounds good, those bearings are doing okay, 40 at an idle and 50-60 drivin is great. How easy does the engine start? Does it smoke all the time, or just when warmed up? Does it smoke while accelerating, or on deceleration? Do the compression test, but for now, toss the 10W30, get some 15W40 or 20W50, thicker oil may or may not help, for the time being. It is possible if the bearing are in good order, you could get away with a valve job, or a valve and ring job......

Okay, first thing, do a compression test, see what you got, okay. What kinda oil you running, did you add something super thin lately, or same oil entire time. These old engines, if the have been using thick oil like 2050, then switched to 5W30 might smoke oil more easily. What is the oil pressure readings, does the engine run nice and smooth, any noises, or knocks etc.....

Okay, what have you got going on, what kinda smokin we be talkin bout here? How many miles? How many miles have you put on her? What type of oil are you running? Have you dons a compression test? If you like the car, and need to rebuild the engine, that you can have done. Are you able to pull the engine and get it to the rebuilder? Let us know some more info, is this smokin "oil burning", or black smoke rich fuel mixture? Getting engine rebuilt is a start, good time for new clutch, service of tranny, new seals etc.

Darin, take some Tylenol or Advil Cold medicine and get yourself to the drive-in, 30s is nothing. You know what I woke up to, Blizzard last night, temp -2, windchill this morning was -20, and I had to get the snowblower out and do the entire driveway parking areas. My driveway is 180 feet long, although the snow was deep only in some areas, it was blown and packed so hard my 200lb plus body could walk right over it. I had to break the snow with a shovel as a ran the blower, as it could not break it up, spent 6 hours outside, the wind stopped, the sun came out, 4f, and I felt warm. I then fired up 55 Fargo and had a drive, heater works well, but have no defrost hose to defrosters, so windshield got some frost on it, like the side and back windows. You know what we ued to use here, frost shields on side and rear windows. my modern vehicles don't have frosty windows anymore, they are good and warm, with no frost on the windows, modern marvels. So have fun, enjoy the movie.... ps Sorry Grady did not mean to hijack the thread

Hey great lookin Truck and car and Robots Tommy, that Plym engine does not look tired with the Edgy head and Intake. Did Earl Edgy, re-grind the cam too. Did this engine have some miles on her? Got a 52 Chevy in the wings with a good running 216 for my Son, car is in nice shape too, with no rust, but needs entire interior job, bumpers chromed, etc.

You can use whatever you want, go pricey on trunk floor bottom, with POR 15 or Zero-Rust. How about clean it up, primer with rusty metal primer, and Black Rustoleum type paint, good to go for another 40 years, under this area. I did not paint the gas tank, and it looks great years later, and I drive on gravel roads, if your painting it, scuff it with 3m scuff pad, or 400 sand paper, shoot on some enamel paint of your choice and color, but I would leave it alone... PS you could take the tank, and have some body and paint place, paint it in a black urethane, but I would consult TanksInc, to see what is sprayed on tank from their end first, easy enough to spray witha quality enamel rattle can prior to install, give it a few days too dry good.

The baffles control gas from sloshing around. You have a 1 wire sender? Why? You 12 volts with aftermarket fuel gauge or something custom? Again no big deal, is your sender and adjustable typ for the float arm, you may have to shorten it a bit to reach the bottom and not hit nearby baffle, again no big deal. Just try sender in new tank, to see if fit and swing arm moves through the entire range of switch. You can get it all done, not a big deal, just some time and playing around, make it a fun job, if you can, take some time and enjoy it...

When its hot out, these factors determine a lot of things, " speed=RPM=engine heat", ask others who drive in hot weather with these engines, rpms over 2000, things get hot, slow here down, or stop for a cool down, or if ambient temps drop, or you get out of the hills, all makes a difference. Now Paul try 30 mph on I-15 from Vegas to LA at 30 mph today, recipe for getting killed...

I used the old oem top bracket straps and the new universal straps together. If your old straps are in good condition, why not use em. I would drop old tank, clean up trunk pan from underside, get hangers ready, prep tank, with fittings, and do a test hang with new dry tank, get it all worked out before adding gas, all gas line, sender unit, and filler neck. Darin, you can do this job, with all prepping a weekend thing...take pics and post your progress, will try and help you through...

thanx Tommy, got pics of the 2 and their engines?

I would just install without the valve, and go with a vented cap as suggested, maked life easier....

Hope your enjoying your hot summer, here in Canada were also metric, so 100f is about 38c, I was raised on Fahrenheit, before this country went metric way back in the late 70s. Hope you enjoy your hot drive, this part of Canada, gets 30-35c and sometimes higher every summer, usually drive in morning or nights then, always afraid of overheating, or blowing my old engines in that weather....

Now here is a great thread started by Norm:), not quite the right season for most of the USA and Canada:confused:, but could be used right now in Australia and those hot weather equator type countries...enjoy:D

I am reviving this thread for the benefit of those who may be doing this very install of a Tanksinc 41-48 Mopar universal gas tank. This thread is old, and I can't remember if I thanked Tim and Norm for their coaching but will do so now, thanx Guys. This tank is A-okay, and has been in service 5 years now. The filler neck flange on tank, you will need Permatex Aviation gasket sealer, very sticky odd smelling brown stuff. You do not tighten flange screw to tight, or it will twist gasket, the little rubber O ring must be used on the screws. The filler neck will line up, to this, when you use rubber filler neck hose and clamps. Rollover vent valve fitting on tank, you will need to make spacers on gastank brackets under floor to space gas tank away from trunk floor pan to allow clearance. I custom some asian hardwood pieces, then primered and painted, worked great. I would install fuel sender unit, and make sure it works, and does clear, the baffles inside of tank, and is functioning prior to bolting up tank and adding gas. I also ran a separate ground wire from fuel sender to the frame. This is not a 2 hour job, but if you have everything ready, it is not a huge deal either. Feel free to post/and/or ask questions relating to the install of a tanks inc Mopar gas tank, or any other custom/universal type gas tank installation too.....

Hey Tommy, did you leave a 6 volt starter motor in the 39? You like the Pertronix? Electric fuel pump, has it's benefits, especially for hot weather hot starts, and for starting after a long sit. My 47 Chrysler, is tried engine too, but has good oil pressure, and last comp check yielded 100-105 across the board, but that was 6 years ago, have put on about 8000 miles since. My 55 Fargo, with a 56 12 volt starter, and 12 volt set-up, manual choke, starts super easy too, even in hot weather after a hard run...

I don't seem to need either for my engines for cold starts, the 12 volt, starts easily and quickly, even after 2 weeks. The trouble I sometimes have is the 6 volt, and warm to hot starts after a good run, and after shut off for few minutes, like getting gas....

Hey Robert that big 6 volt battery make that starter spin good. I have a 650 CC amp battery, 2/0 bat cables all wring and grounds clean, but don't spin and start as easy as my 12 volt with points, and manual chocke

Nice car, Greg's suggestion is the best course of action. Do the searches, as well do google searches too, as mentioned this topic has been covered in mastery detail. Hey what's your reason for the convert,BTW? I have 1 with 6 volt and 1 with 12 volt, the 12 volt is great, and I much prefer it. I know others on here enjoy and have great 6 volt set-ups, mine is good too, just not quite as good for starting the engine as a 12 volt...