55 Fargo

I have always experienced leaking brake fluid, but usually not complete failure.leaks are not good, but I guess it can happen with dirt,bad rubber, pitting etc, and generally hold up..

Have not pulled this MC just yet. I also have a spare, but need to pull it off a frame,but sure that one would be rusty inside, so need to pull either for inspection. When your OEM master failed, was it leaking prior, or just give up all of a sudden?

I have developed a leak at my MC on the 55 Fargo, this was after I replaced a bad wheel cyl, and then bled brakes, now it's leaking a bit. I have phoned a company in Edmonton Canada, they want $350 to re-sleeve, mighty steep. Rock Auto has new MCs for around a $100, not sure if they are any good or not. I have had success in the past with new kits, but mostly on wheel cyls not MCs. Anybody have any ideas or suggestions? I figure a good honing and kit might work as this MC has been in service for a while....thanx Fred

Had to replace a rear wheel cyl (1988 Mopar 8 1/4 diff), was leaking on the toward front side of wheel cyl. I installed a new wheel cyl, the brake line from T junction on the diff, this went well, very little brake fluid messed up inside the drums. The brake shoes, hardware, drums are new with only 500 miles. After bleeding brakes, I have a slight leak in the new wheel cyl, and same side as the old wheel cyl go figure. I also notice my MC has some leaking going on.....Lots of fun. I am going to go through all again, maybe rebuild or replace MC, all shoes are new, drums machined, but hydraulics now acting up. I wonder what other dual MC might be a good candidate for a 1955 Dodge pickup...

Yes sir, been there, bad rear caliper on a 1996 Nissan, had some brake action though, and it was around town when it hppened, side street. Yup, just 2 days checking MC on 1955 Fargo, noticed it got low, checked all wheels, and found the culprit, left rear wheel cyl, which is a diff from an 1988 Diplomat, $13.00 for new wheel cyls each, some new brake line, and back in business. I was not enough of a leak, or I caught it in time, brake shoes are fine, only 400 miles on those shoes. I did not replace wheel cyls ,when I did brake job, they were lookin okay, guess I should have....

This always a great topic, and always enjoy seeing how some of you have fabbed in a dual MC. These more modern MCs are used instead of the single pot originals for a variety of reasons, and safety being #1. A lot of us are still using the original single pots, are they dangerous? How many of you Guys have had brake failure as a result of a bad original type MC? I do realize, if a wheel cyl blows out, a single pot will be emptied and useless, and the dual mc, will leave you with some brakes. I am only mentioning this, to actually discover how many have had major brake failure, with a stock hydraulic system....

Absolutely, and with a new source of energy, hope it odes just that..

Rich I do not use starting fluid ever, have never had carb pops and flames, and really like the idea of an electric fuel pump for priming/cold starts and as a back-up for the mechanical pump. Don, your method, does not work anywhere near as well at this point on cold starts of my engine, after a few days. I am not saying it could not, to be fair, will test again with a new battery, and in warmer temps. If I put a few squirts of gas, and I do mean very small amounts of gas into my carb, it is instant fire-up. You method worked too, but it is crank/stop,crank/stop,crank/stop, and some more than fire up. I may have other issues with this carb, or fuel pump back-siphoning, or as you have maintained, a battery that needs more oomph. Will report back,once I have a new battery...

Think I could live with that. This car and others like it are worth mega bucks, for the likes of Joe Bortz, Jay Leno, and not Surfs like us....

Here ya go, my 251 Fargo engine plugged in. This vintage block heater still works quite well. I had a similar type on my 47 Chrysler engine but could not save it, but I can tell you, the element and surrounding housing is quality made as compared to modern types..

Okay, a few days later, engine cold, garage is cool inside this frosty morning. I gave a small squirt of gas into carb, went to fire up engine, engine fired immediately, and running strong. Now I could use a new battery, that is fact, but this priming is resulting in instant starts. Could there be other issues going on,such as a faulty carb or problematic fuel pump, that loses prime?

My Son has been there, as well as many other I know, tons of old cars and trucks, and as mentioned many engine drivetrain changes. 1 thing that was stated bt all, was, they felt safe in that country, but the food was fine, but on the bland side, not spicy like other Caribbean or Central American countries.

Lookin good Paul, yes I find these trucks steer pretty good, when all is tight up front. Just beled and re-bleed, with a helper, till all air is purged. Hey Paul nice back drop, whjat are thos trees in blossom? An what are those trees by the house, that have not leafed out yet. It will not look like that here till early May, sometimes late April, the grass gets green, and trees begin to leaf out... truck looks good and solid.enjoy

Coler, just get out there and get all the snow cleaned off the coupe ASAP, its frozen water, it'll be fine, get her dried out, it's not salt you be fine...........Look what I dug out of the snow after a major wind storm last week. The temp the day I cleaned the snow was -25 http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/32309-for-california-and-minnesota-guys-ot/

Thats the plan, and a bigger 1 then I have now. Will post the results after that. A pic of my battery I took the other day, think I got it in 06 or 07

Robert what type and brand of electric fuel pump are you using? Is it running exclusive, or as an auxiliary to the manual fuel pump?

Hi Reg, went outside and tried this, on the 47, but it was started and run just 24 hours ago. The battery was on a 6 volt battery tender, the garage is cool though, so engine is good and cold. I tried the " no prime start method", it reluctantly worked, my battery was cranking okay, but she is getting old. But to be honest, it did not fire up, like a squirt of gas down the carb, that was instant start. This would no doubt work in warmer temps...

On a few of my small engines, there are primers to squirt gas, for starting after any length of time. I don't mind doing this, but was surprised how well it worked on a cold weather engine..

47Heaven, what happened to your new gas tank install? I am wondering if you completed this job, as you have posted no follow-up to this task. If you have done the job, please post with your results, and pics if possible, this will be of help to anyone contemplating this particular install....

This all depends on the buyer, and the right buyer will pay the right price. I would say in the neighbourhood of between 500-1000 bucks. I know this is not what you paid for rebuilding, but now there are a few miles on the engine, being the small 218, worth maybe less, than a 230, 251 or 265.

Hi Greg, at work so do not have my Chrysler shop book, it is 121.5inch wheelbase for the 6 cyl cars, and even longer for the 8s, curb weight is, 3550 lbs...

Hey does anyone have any pics of a C38 Chrysler 6 cylinder car like mine, parked next to a P15 or a D25, even a D24, which is similar in size. I have never had my car parked next to a P15 or D25. Hey better yet, can someone photoshop my luxury cruiser, next to Don Coatneys race ready P15..LOL

Just another thing on the list of needs for this car, it needs it, after 6 years of use, but it gets her started with some "dino shooters"....

Hey Don, this battery is gettin old, so might not handle cold cranks so great. I do find your method, works well in warmer temps say above 50, but when the shop has dropped to 30, and is closer to 20 on the floor, everything gets tighter. I know 6 volt systems do start okay, especially when all is in good clean condittion as mine is, but 12 volts is much stronger for starting, nothing will convince me otherwise, as I have both, and can see the difference..thanx anyway

I dunno if Reg remembers, but I do.That method crankin a few times, then stopping, then crankin a few more times, is that the method you are talking about. That basically allows fuel to be pumped up, to carb, beofre you actually fire up engine, correct? I have tried that method unsuccessfully for cold temperature starts, I find it runs down the old 6 volt battery a bit. Is that the method you be talkin about...