55 Fargo

Back brakes are clear too, now where the heck is the brake fluid going? It has to be the MC, squirtin some out once in a while. Drums were tight, have not been off in 3years

Pulled front drums, all is fine, no leaks there, no leaks at MC, no leaks on lines, unions or hoses. I have not pulled back drums yet, but no sign of leaking there either. I will pull back drums later today or tomorrow. Is it possible I am losing fluid out the MC cap?

That is a good thing, save these for use, or for template to cut holes and notches for new welting. This stuff is a whole lotta fun to cut and make holes for fenders with no templates...

Why shouldn't it count. Ed you need something you can drive around in winter too, on those drier days, something like an old Dodge truck, that isn't cosmetically fixed up, but mechanically sound. I have been drivin the old Fargo around quite a bit this winter, only minor salt exposure a few times....

There will be parts cars along the way, but this car is structurally pretty sound, most aren't up here is they were winter driven. Either way there will be a few cars around. Not gonna happen, goes outside and under tarps and cover next few days....

What transmission? I would guess it is the M6 semi-auto 4 spd, with fluid drive coupler. 8 cylinder Chryslers did come with ratios such as 3.36,3.58,3.91. The 3.36 gears would allow you to cruise 70 mph all day long with that big 8 cyl engine. How fast are you driving the car, how does it sound?

Chris, that is exactly what my road is like, in summer, or even winter, when things are dry, or after a fresh grading. The same, minus the mountains and dessert terrain...........LOL

Hey Chuck, do you drive on gravel roads much? I would like to see a product that handles gravel blasting, in key areas. I have tried primer, paint and rubberized undercoating, but certain areas get stone blasted off. I just washed by bucket and wash clothes, the underside of my car. The rusty metal primer and rust paint is holding up very well, except in areas where gravel has permeated the substrate, which is only a small amount, but will touch those areas up, and thinking of rhino coating the inner wheel wells....

Yup, have cleaned some of this good stuff off of undercarriages. The $hit they use now, magnesium chloride, will rust your undercarriage.......

Got home from Night shift, checked around MC and line going to diff no sign of leakage there or at front brake hoses. I will pull drums, but no leaking on backing plates either. I wonder if some of the brake fluid is spilling out the top of the MC over time, could that be possible?

Good firm, high pedal, brakes are quite good on this car. I will check out all lines and wheels for leaks and report back.thanx

I agree, underside should look decent if the upperside is nice and shiny like. I most likely will be washing and doing some more primer,paint or rockerguard under this car. The gravel road is brutal, and makes a mess of things quick, just like when these cars were new.....

Along the pedal shaft boot area? Will have a good look under there this week.

Hey, was checking today for brake fluid leaks on my 47, gravel road dust, and some surface rust on some things, gettin dirty under there. This si always an endless task of trying t5o keep this undercarriage clean on a gravel road, and in this type of climate. How fussy are some of you Guys, I am going to wash, do more primer and undercoating again, these vehicle are an ongoing maintenance, reminds me of a boat owners maintenance program. Do some of you Guys keep the underside, clean and painted over time?

Went to check my MC on the 47 Chrysler, immediately notice 2-3 ounces low, it is DOT 5 silicone fluid. in 2006 all brand new lines, hoses, drums machined, new shoes and all shop rebuilt MC and wheel cyls. I see no leaking at the MC or on backing plates on wheels, not today not ever. I have no pulled any drums yet for a closer inspection, but will this week. Must be the year of brake problems for me...........

Well my 1955 Fargo is probably not worth much. I bought the 108 inch frame, with engine,trans, and diff, in 2006 for $100. In 2011 I bought a 1 ton 1955 Dodge cab, and chassis for $200, and then bought a 1956 Fargo 1/2 Ton parts truck, for the doors, seat, 1952 box, and a bunch of other things. I have the correct rear fenders and running boards at work getting welded up. I plan to do a fast cheap paint job, and use the truck for fun and some work, I live on a very dusty dirty gravel road. I may tear it down for the deluxe treatment in retirement. Probably worth nothing, and maybe not liked by many, but I do love and enjoy this truck, she runs very well, and is quite reliable.... PS I have many hours in this thing already...

This week, Older Boy buys my Youngest Boy a Project. A shell o fa 1986 5 litre Mustang. No glass, no interior, no engine/trans. The car has an 8.8 diff, front end all new, and fairly rust free. The downside, some Yahoo, tried to put a new roof skin on with skylight, and did a real butcher job. Today we cleaned all the ice/snow and crud, as well as parts and some hidden goodies out of the car. We then pushed, or should I say I pushed it into 60 degree heated garage. This will require a few parts cars for sure, my Son is only 10YO

Update; Bled all brakes, with Wife's help, might be still some air but pushed out lots of fluid. 2nd new wheel cyl, is not leaking, once I bled all brakes master cyl is not leaking either, at least i cannot see or feel anything, "touch wood". This has Me scratching my head, and will still be pulling MC in warmer weather. Anybody else ever have this happen?

Yes will be doing this very soon, not sure which company I will get to re-sleeve this baby. I really wonder what later model dual MC, might be a fairly simple retrofit? Any Ideas?.......

Hi Tim, took it back to Local Jobber, and got another, that leak solved. I bled brakes with 1 man brake bleeder, then lost pedal completely, this MC is not very good. I have the pedal back after pumping several times, its soft, probably more air in system, and no Helpers today for further bleeding. With MC right full of fluid, how could I lose the pedal completely? the cup in the MC must be garbage, feel a sticking spot down low on the pedal while bleeding and pumping pedal back to life. I am going to get another MC, and get things right, I hope..........

1 other thing Dave, the brake pedal seems awfully hard, and always has, could I also have 1 or other wheel cyls locked up? I wonder

This is left rear wheel cyl, modern 1988 10 inch brakes 8 1/4 diff, I cyl. The leak is from the cylinder and not the fitting. Funny thing is it is leaking the same side of the cylinder as the old cylinder. Could it be a problem with the pins,shoes or drum clearance. The shoes and hardware are new, the drums were machined, but were still in spec...thanx

I wonder if anything i did on install is causing this new wheel cyl to leak? I have to pull it again, the drum is in spec, shoes are new, brake hardware is new, but this new wheel cyl is leaking on the same side the old wheel cyl was leaking. Anybody got any ideas?

Acid dip perhaps before the sleeving?

Sure this could work, but so would an electric fuel pump, at least for priming and back-up. Why not try Don Coatneys idea, heck try it, and let us know if it works for you....