55 Fargo

Yup, not a problem, but still like your idea, just did not work as well in my situation, no big deal. But with my 12 volt set-up on the 55 Fargo, I pull the choke, and it fires up instantly, even if it has not been started for days, starts as easy as my modern fuel injected,computerized vehicles

Looks like ti would be a 100 bucks, plus the kit, I would do the nead blast and clean myself. So re-sleeving and new would be similar in price, but a brass sleeve would be very durable...

Hi Hank, and BTW, I do appreciate your's and others input,experience and advice. I only figure these are new, and most likely re-pops, made ina foreign country, but I could be wrong. They look exactly like the Oreiily, Rock Auto, Roberts MCs, with a top plate that bolts down as well as having a filler cap. Rock Auto's MC is by far the least expensive, but who knows who is making these new MCs and wheel cyls.I am willing to bet, China, or some other foreign country. Today I am very tired, lots of snow removal, heavy snow last night, just hope this is the last, but who knows up here. Then to top it off Older Boy buys 10 yo Boy a , 1988 5 litre Mustangbody, no interior, engine, seats, or glass, and now I am supposed to do something with this. That leaky brand new wheel cyl, leaked today, , it was dry, moved truck today, and wet spot appeared, what a PITA. I am going to tear down the entire hydraulic portion of these brakes, why the heck would a brand new chinese wheel cyl leak.....LOL

Hank, would rather send my MC to have it sleeved in the US, than buy those re-pops.,sorry. This MC is in good shape, once re-sleeved for $100.00 I will bead blast the MC and install the kit myself. This will be much better than any foreign made repop................BTW you can buy and MC, from Rock Auto for less than $100, probably the same repop as VPW

Pulled MC from 1 ton truck frame, it was not seized, reservoir quite clean. The piston had some crud, the bore still has cross hatching pattern on it, some rust was going on though. I do not think this would be a hone and kit candidate, but more likely will need re-sleeving.

How do you find hot weather hot engine starts with an electric fuel pump, compared to mechanical? This would be a 6 volt set-up of course...

A bit of an update, tried new fully charged 6 volt battery, that belongs to a friend on 47 Chrysler, employing the DC Vintage Mopar starting procedure. The engine cranked faster, but needed a number of cranks and stops before it started, slightly better than my battery. Tonight after work, used 1 ounce of gas poured into the carb, cranked engine, instant start, running smooth immediately. So what the "H", is going on, where and what is the issue. My fuel lines look great, I should know I installed them new 5 years ago, carb was rebuilt, new ignition parts etc. Fuel pump has not been touched. There is fuel in the glass bowl filter, but obviously not getting sucked into the carb while cold cranking, until i has been cranked a number of times. This is not a big deal, but would like to resolve the issue, or find out what may be in need of attention....

I am hoping that will cure my problems for now.....LOLAll else is fine, except the leak at back of MC, which You and I both know is fluid slipping past the seal. I will have a look at my spare, and either rebuild,re-sleeve or replace....thanx

This would help the leak situation, a booster....LOLhere is the system, stock MC 1 1/4 inch bore, stock front wheel cyls 1 1/8 bores, rear diff 1988 Mopar 8 1/4 with 15/16 bore wheel cyls, with self energizing bendix type brakes. I do not see the intent of your post. Ideally I could have a front disc conversion, a modern dual MC, but a booster, my leg is the dang booster.......LOL

Yes Tod, would be a lot more than 100psi in the brake sytem hydraulic pressure. I think Hank was making reference to the weakest link employing a number.

Anyone looking for a nice old 55/56 Fargo pickup. This is very close to me, but I ain't got the money, but wish I did. From the 1 pic it looks like a straight old beast in good shape.. http://winnipeg.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1953-Fargo-Dodge-W0QQAdIdZ460978653

Thanx Guys, I have spare wheel cyls, and even another MC, but of course need rebuilding and possibly sleeving. I think I will open up the spare MC, and see what I got, sleeve if needed, the same ofr the front wheel cyls, that are not leaking whatsoever, I may not distrub those, all is well. The old wheel cyl did not look that bad, but there was some debris in it, perhaps the cup was leaking for that reason. I will report back my findings, when I know. On my 47 I got lucky, all OEM MC wheel cyls,honed and new kits 7 years ago, new lines hoses and shoes, DOT 5 fluid, all is well, without needing any re-sleeving

Well it is "air dry", not 2k catalyst cure.I think what Tim is getting at is, with pitted rusted or rough metal, the "Fish Oil" , tends to settle into the pits, pores etc, but if the substrate is smooth, then it may rise to the surfce. Curing is curing, once the solvent vents off, then the curing process can begin, with the Rusty metal Primer, a full cure takes a while. This is why production shops, car manufacturers do not use synthetic enamels anymore, well there are many other reasons too. As far as POR 15 is concerned, I have tried it, and not saying it is a bad product, but for the price, it is overrated, I like a product called "Zero Rust" good quality, and much less money than POR 15. I have also used 2 k epoxy primer, with much success on rusty metal that was prepped, epoxy seals well and has good corrosion resistance.

Hey all, did post some of this in the MC thread, but may not have been viewed by many. Recently, I needed to install a new wheel cyl on the rear of my 55 Fargo, these are modern brakes, 10 inch 1988 Dodge. After installing the wheel cyl, new brake line to Tee block, proceeded to bleed brakes. At first my MC was going to the floor no pedal, then it cam back up, and I was able to bleed brakes. I then did notice, the new wheel cyl was weeping some fluid, removed the drum, cleaned it up, and reinstalled, same thing but less after a drive. I then pulled shoes, cleaned mess, reinstalled, making sure pins were in wheel cyls correctly, and brake shoes fastened back into place. I adjusted brakes, and so far no more leaking. I have no idea what went on here, if 1 of the rubbers were not sealing or something at first. But I do now have an external leak going on from the MC, will deal with that, but it was not leaking to my awareness, until I did this recent brake work. Anybody ever experience something similar?

Clean metal, in this case is brand new steel, without any corrosion. I take it you have surface corrosion on the floor metal, clean it up, you can use a Phosphoric acid treatment, then scuff with 3M pad, and apply Rust Metal Primer, followed with Rustoeleum Black Rust Enamel for example. I have used rusty metal primer on pretty clean metal, and topcoated without problems, but in those case also allowed some longer curing time, as this was mixed and shot out of a spraygun, and coated over with more agressive products like 2 k urethane primer/surfacer for example. When in doubt, do a small area, and see how it turns out. The Rusty Metal primer will adhere to rougher, pitted metal,much better than on clean new steel. Good Luck

have a read in this thread, might answer some ?s you have http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/32253-4-spd-truck-trans-differences/

This unit looks just like the Rock auto and Roberts, with removable top plate, could they have a common supplier?

Yes Merle, have also thought this very thing.But... As Ed, mentions, sleeved OEM master will most likely be way better, and the stainless or brass, should be indestructible, when dealing with DOT 3 brake fluid, over time. The outfit Ed mentions is about $90 to sleeve the master, I clean up the master and install kit. Whitepost charges $175.00 plus return shipping for complete rebuild including brass sleeve. This rip-off outfit in Edmonton Canada, wants $350 plus shipping, aint gonna happen. My MC is leaking slightly at boot area, the pedal is very good, being a large 1 1/4 bore, pedal is a bit hard to begin with, brakes are performing pretty good. I cannot leave the MC as it is, or destruction could follow. I have all new brake shoes, drums machined, new wheel cyls and brake lines on diff. the front wheel cyls and rubber hoses are in good shape, but are older, should I leave them alone or replace? I am on a very tight budget right now.

That sounds like a good deal.....thanx

One other concern I do have with my present set-up. My MC is 1 1/4 bore, front wheel cyls 1 1/8 bore, and rear wheel cyls (1988 Dodge) 15/16" bore. Because the rear wheel cyls are 15/16, will this be any issue, as they are smaller in volume and size than the front wheel cyls?........thanx

I did just this, ran a seperate ground wire from tank to frame, using 10 gauge wire, works for Me..

The Rock Auto MC, this mounts pointing to back of truck on the 1955 Dodge/Fargos. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1488225,parttype,1836

On the 1955/56 Dodge/Fargo truck, the MC faces toward back of truck, could a more modern dual MC be mounted into this location somewhat easier than a Pilothouse truck?

I have not heard the greatest thing about Roberts parts, where would this be manufactured?You can acutally buy new from Rock Auto for $93.00, but how good are they? I would be inclined to either have it sleeved, or if the bore is in good shape, a new kit. Listen I appreciate the suggestion, but am finding a lot of Roberts stuff, is of Asian extraction..

Thanx Ed, tried phoning a few minutes ago, their closed for the day, will call tomorrow. I was thinking this topic ,must be very common on the 2 boards, as most old cars/trucks, never have an MC or wheel cyl, in working condition, when we get these projects.....LOL