bamfordsgarage

It appears the voltage regulator in my '47 D25 needs to be replaced. I troubleshot the charging system more-or-less per the manual, and Condition 1C (below) came up the winner — a jumper wire brought the charging system to life. The manual calls for an Auto-Lite VRP 4503-A (35-45 Amps @7.2 to 7.5 volts). I'm trying to source this locally or at least in Canada and have come up empty thus far. I recall a page on this site several years ago that listed part number cross-references for various components. I can't find that page now, so either it has disappeared or I'm showing my age. Can someone please help with alternative part numbers for this regulator and/or advise where the reference page is? Thank you.

Hi Bob, thanks for asking. I've done nothing yet for decorations this year, but here's a couple shots from 2012. My '26 T Touring is in the shop now for some overdue repairs — the Ford may carry the presents this year, but Dodge will definitely sport the antlers and red nose.

here is my 1912 KisselKar 50-HP Fire Chief's Car... 373 in3, 4-cylinder, factory 4-speed (4th is 25% OD), 37" tires on 27" wheels. Lots of fun!

Thanks Tim, I'd never seen that one. My wife says "Gee, the Dodge looks pretty good there" (gives an idea how ratty it looks now).

I haven't been around the forum much lately, been working on the '24 T Speedster and not doing much with the D25 besides using it as my everyday car. OT but possibly interesting... Here is the Model T poured-babbitt connecting rod that almost stranded us 580 miles (and one international border) from Edmonton on Tuesday, and a mockup of the roadside leather replacement bearing that got us home. Full story and photos here: http://www.mtfca.com...html?1442104258

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Sadly, Amazon, Half and Biblio came up dry, but I'm looking into a inter-library transfer if one can be found for loan. 1940Plymouth, do you recall which library had it and roughly when that was?

Our good friends Guy Butcher and Eunice Kratky in the UK have driven their 1933 Austin 7 from Baltimore, to Alaska, to Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina, and Guy is now writing a book about that incredible journey. He would dearly love to acquire a copy of the book "Adventure South" about a similar epic journey undertaken in 1941 by three fellows in a 1941 Plymouth. There was much information and photos about this "Richardson Pan-American Highway Expedition" published in the Plymouth Bulletin in 1982, but a copy of the book itself has proved elusive thus far— can anybody help? Read more about the Richardson Expedition here (its quite a story!): http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/cc-vintage-the-adventure-south-to-the-tip-of-south-america-in-a-1941-plymouth/ http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/adventure09.htm

Last weekend several members of the Edmonton Antique Car Club went exploring and camping along the historic Victoria Trail NE of Edmonton. Despite several months of promotion at club meetings (Minimum Pavement! Maximum Gravel! Tent Camping! Mosquitos!), only three oldies and a Kia van took part in the adventure. I ticked a modest item off my bucket list Friday night — ever since 2010 when friend Jerry and I built the car top carrier on my '47 D25 I have wanted to sleep up there, and now I have. A couple years ago Jerry bought a tent and fly designed to fit in a pickup truck bed for $10 at a garage sale. Turns out it was almost a perfect fit on top of my old heap and with the door facing backwards and steps bolted to the back and RR fender of the car, it made a dandy loft apartment! Of the total 180 miles about 130 were on gravel. Things have been awfully dry around here so the outbound trip was pretty dusty, but rain Friday and Saturday evenings kept the dust down nicely. The other oldies were a one-family-since-new 1953 Chev 1/2 ton (the now owner came home from the hospital in the truck when he, and it, were just a few days old) and a very interesting 1950 Kaiser Vagabond purchased at the Hershey PA Swap Meet in 2014. Photos: Period motoring on fun old roads; The old Dodge obscures view of the modern Kia, Kaiser Vagabond is in the background; Bush-find Dodge Grain Truck has been there for a while (note bumper); Truck and neighboring Case 900 Propane tractor were not visible from the road, hadn't been stripped or vandalized; Kaiser trunk opens to reveal a deluxe cargo bed, car was marketed to the outdoor sportsman

Sounds like that's it.

And a Christmas Dodge to go with the Plymouths. The car lives outdoors all year — this is the second season for the rooftop presents and last week was the first time any went missing when a couple disappeared overnight. Whatever the perps were expecting I'm sure they were disappointed — the "presents" are liquor store boxes wrapped in weather-resistant dollar store Christmas tablecloths. To keep them in place at speed the boxes are ballasted with treasures like old bricks, scrap metal, frozen water in antifreeze jugs and so on.

Those are both great, but I know my bride the nurse would say "I hope he's not planning to pee standing up!"

Well it was fun seeing those Plodge pics — first and last were at Hershey 2010, the middle one was much later (rack sides went on early 2012) and location unknown. Thanks for posting.

I like the suggestions of Brent B3B and Wayfarer. If it were me I would first go talk to the manager again and explain — calmly and politely — that I firmly believe this is a warrantable situation and I expect them to live up to the terms of their warranty or refund my money. If they refuse I would apologize in advance for being difficult, but I was determined to get satisfaction. And then the next day... Put the peelings in the truck bed and a sign in the back window "Two-Year Old Line-X" with an arrow pointing at the pile. Park in front of Trademaster and hang around until the manager sees things your way. Abbotsford weather is not too cold next week — I would put a lawn chair in the back, and settle in with a good book and a hot coffee. I would cheerfully say hello to every customer that drove up to the store and suggest they double-check ahead of time to see if this sort of peeling would be covered under their warranty. A photo of the sign, the pile, and you in the truck bed in front of the store might be of interest at head office. I would suggest you only take 1/3 or 1/2 of the peelings along in case they scoop them out of the box to get rid of the evidence.

I don't understand "loud and stay clunk", but one cause of a clunk-upon-braking is a loose axle nut. These should be very VERY tight to ensure the hub can not turn on the tapered axle shaft. If the hub has been removed, say for brake work, the nuts should be rechecked and retightened after a bit of driving.

One of our local club members made and posted these YouTube videos of our recent treks to find the Whitecourt Meteor Crater. This high-speed boulder struck the earth only 1,100 years ago and the site was unknown (as a crater) until July 2007. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitecourt_crater A number of meteorite fragments have been located in the area since 2007. Did we find one? Watch and find out... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkwWls0i_yw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHP3Hrnxg3M

This is a common procedure with Model T Ford rear hubs, which like your car are mounted to tapered and keyed axle shafts. Diversion --> there are pullers for Model T hubs as well, but often the hub/axle bond is very strong due to age and corrosion, and the Model T pullers only latch onto very fine hubcap threads — not to sturdy log nuts or bolts like your Mopar. Anyway, my emphatic advice is do not back off the axle nut by anything like 1/4". One turn is more than enough and put the cotter pin back in. Once the hub breaks loose it will ride out to meet the nut and you're set. If you back the nut off too far, the hub will wobble around on the axles by the time you get home and may damage the taper and/or key.

Hey Fred, could do us a favour and measure the horizontal distance from the mounting flange to the end of the legs? Thanks.

Those legs look long enough to reach comfortably past the centre of a 25" block, and all that weight in the post end will pull the centre of gravity back (safer) even further. I wouldn't mind the legs to be a few inches further apart but that stand looks pretty good to go as as.

Yes, and perfect signage too!

We had two hand-held GPS. Our problem was we started down the wrong logging road which meant we had to bush walk a mile further each way than expected — we turned back approx 3/4 mile shy of the destination in order to have enough daylight to turn the car around and drive back to civilization.

Thanks Bob, yes back together and in regular use. Last weekend the Edmonton Antique Car Club had our annual "Oldies Tour", with distances and roads more suited to prewar vehicles. Lady Michelle and I went in my '24 Ford T Speedster and friend Jerry and Darlene took the old Dodge. 420 miles total with no problems, either car. One the first evening, Jerry, Michelle, two others and myself set out in the Dodge in search for the Whitecourt Meteor Crater: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitecourt_crater We took gravel and then logging roads as far as possible then walked in the rest of the way. Ultimately the search was unsuccessful (we plan another expedition in late September) but it made for a nice evening and some fun driving. There were a bunch of mud holes like the first pic below that were no problem, but we did not attempt the one in the second photo — which is where we parked and walked in.

I'll take three, please, in assorted colours.

Hmmmm... where were you on Monday??

That was me. See posts #1 and #13 for photos. http://p15-d24.com/topic/36273-ring-gear-came-off-flywheel-any-easy-fix/

So I always understood that the throttle and choke ought to be fully open in order to do an accurate compression test. A few minutes ago I went looking for that page Don Coatney pastes every now and again about C T procedure and wouldn't you know it says as long as all the spark plugs are out it doesn't matter about the throttle. The beauty of the Internet, however, is that one can always find some website that agrees with one's particular truth — hence Exhibit One below that states the choke and throttle are to be blocked open. I must have mis-installed the throttle cable after replacing the head gasket because, upon pushing in the throttle knob the linkage hit its stop while the knob was still out from the dash. I kept on pushing and the throttle cable sheath pulled out from the crimped tube behind the dash. In order to repair the cable assembly we needed to get the throttle cable on the bench. Every 5/8" wrench I had would not work in that tight spot behind the dash/beside the lightswitch/above the dash curl/beneath the instrument cluster. All the while of course with my head between the pedals and my feet over the seat. The slit 5/8" socket took a 3/4" open end wrench on the opposite end flats and worked perfectly out and in. Once the cable was on the bench, several tight wraps of 0.030 stainless steel safety wire compressed and secured the outer tube to the sheath nicely (also cleaned and lubricated the cable so it glides smoothly in and out). I mentioned this morning that Don might have encountered this 5/8" fastener recently — based on a recent post by pflaming which advised Don to remove the dashboard to help his re-wiring job go easier.