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Stainless, when in contact with ferrous will rust. I have done a lot of stainless projects over the years and you have to avoid contact with ferrous at all costs, especially on sanitary work. Cupronickel tubing works well. It does not rust and it is easy to form. The best SS to use would be 304L or 316L but hang onto your wallet and plan on purchasing some rather expensive tools to form the flares. If you do not have plans to show your car at Amelia Island or Pebble Beach, save some money and use the copper nickel alloy tubing.

Stainless steel is more brittle and work hardens easier and it does rust. Not better on many fronts.

The filter is far from the headers. The pipe that it is close to is an intake runner, and when the engine is running those runners stay very cold. That's why I built it like that. Cold air is denser and allows more power to be made. The long runners introduce a ram effect on the intake charge and produce more power. This was a question about installing the windshield and rear window.

Pre BBQ and Merle has already been seen working on someone else’s truck Lol, and we have collectively solved the “ b-series” horn button removal scenario Ggdad1951 (with beer) John T53 (flannel left hand try) Merle (left of 48 dodger holding down the steering wheel)

greg g, thanks for the info, you're right about not modify my 201. What year did Plymouth and Dodge stop using the 230's? Was it used even later in military app's, caterpillars, stationary use or such? Since I live in Sweden the amount of donorcars are probably limited... and also the stock of "high performance" parts.