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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/05/2013 in all areas

  1. Stop refilling it. The level is not critical since the air does not go through the oil, so the oil can be a bit lower than factory spec with no negative effect on its performance. The air path takes a 180 degree turn and the heavier than air stuff can;t make the turn and falls into the oil. The oil's job it to retain what falls into it.
    3 points
  2. Carb top gasket is an easy item. As Tod said sheet gasket at the parts store. I cut my own. Conforms well to the top of the carb. Edit: 1st pic, old one for pattern. 2nd pic, new gasket
    3 points
  3. Between the local hardware store and the local auto supply store I've usually been able to come up with suitable sheet stock for making my own gaskets. Seems like it would not be too hard to create what I assume to be a washer shaped gasket of the appropriate inside and outside diameters.
    2 points
  4. DJ, Every thing you've been told is good advice and I can't add to it so far as the hinges are concerned, but I read a tip on the car side that may help you reassemble it. Before you pull the doors drill a 1/8" hole through each hinge plate because 1/8" is just slightly smaller than the diameter of a 16p nail. When you're ready for reassembly drive a nail through the hole in the plate and into the hole you drilled along the hinge line and voila!, instant alignment once the bolts are started. Don't drive the nails until you seat them or you'll pay the devil to get them out. The hole can easily be filled with Bondo but the holes will be so small they'll hide themselves and don't need filling, especially if there's a dab of paint on them. Have fun. -Randy
    2 points
  5. I have two of those pullers. One broke while trying to pull a hub. The other one is now a door stop. Get a good puller.
    1 point
  6. Here's what I'm working with .. Looks like the bulk of the rust repair will be in the rear qrtr's and wheel wells . The plan is to fix any rot larger that a golf ball and preserve the patina as is .
    1 point
  7. Hey guys thanks for the support !! Here that 54 with duallys Kinda rough has bondo and mismatched running boards Oh and that bus is Chevy Sorry guy let me know if anyone want the 54 I can give you mr Hopkins # Also I will post more detailed pics of the 48 Now that is dug out and heading home .
    1 point
  8. Made my kick panel from black cardboard.........think I got it at Hobby Lobby. Cut to size, then covered with maroon vinyl same as the door panels. Made my door panels from masonite, but don't recommend it as I discovered it is too stiff and could not use the springs behind the door handles and window cranks. Also made panels inside the trunk to match the doors.......cardboard cut to size and vinyl covering. Not really same as original, but I wanted a nice looking trunk to display my knick knacks. the trunk is also carpeted same as car.
    1 point
  9. Yep ok ! Im gonna do a mopar engine ! Even Mr Hopkins convinced me to keep it Mopar Probable a 318 With a 727 Anyone have an idea what I would get for gas mileage ? We have the truck dug out and rolling I will post more pics of today's events ASAP
    1 point
  10. The way I read it he's not talking about the chrome ring the driver uses rather the pieces under it that hold the chrome ring wire etc and make the horn function. Aussie can you post a picture of what you have so we can try and fill in the blanks?
    1 point
  11. I have been told that the same year Dodge,Chrysler,and DeSoto fenders interchange. It's the Plymouth fenders and doors that are the odd man out up front on 42-48/early 49 cars. IIRC,the rears swap out from 42 to 48/early 49. The 42 front fenders stopped at the cowl and the bottom swell didn't show on the doors like the 46-48/early 49's. Once again,the Plymouth are the exception.
    1 point
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