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Wonder if you can put the magic smoke back in.

I met my friend Rich and his wife Michelle this morning for breakfast, then we drove up to Roscoe, approx. 30 miles or so northwest of here to visit a new brewery and distillery. We had a good time and great visit. Just wanted to share some photos of our outing. We were on our way home when I saw this 1938 Dodge pickup sitting in the dooryard, I turned around and we stopped to look at it. Had a good visit with the owner. Body is all original, while the engine has been rebuilt. He said he plans on putting it on the road next week

Have not had a chance to drive my '41 any long distance since the Explorer rear axle replacement and the George Asche synchros repair. Yesterday I drove the car to Richmond, 220 miles round trip. Car ran great. No problems at all. The transmission shifted smoothly and the Explorer rear disc brakes improved the braking. An added benefit to the new rear end was the change from my original 4:3 rear to the 4:1 means my speedometer is now spot on, according to my GPS. These cars are sure fun when they are running right. Jim Yergin

wow, this thread got some life in it now! i've just returned from a 3000km roundtrip to sweden (A-Bomber's Meeting, pics will follow in another thread), 10 days in the P10 with zero issues and a lot of lowered driving on various road qualities, so this thread is now even more important to me... first of all, traditional or not traditional, my goal with this car according to my personal taste is going as low in the back as possible, because i love tail draggers. personally i think tail draggers are pretty traditional, and because i also love driving the car as much as possible, i have to think about mods that help me achieve my goal. buying new, modified springs for front and back is the first i will do, now that i saw all the pics of the posie springs. i will raise my front end a little more back towards stock height by putting ford aerostar coils in there, the cut 39 dodge springs don't work for me. i will get the posie springs an then add 1 1/2" blocks, see where that gets me. afterwards i will take the dual exhaust out and modify the part that arches the rear axle, that's where my biggest problem is. the axle hits the tubes pretty frequently under load, and they are already touching the floor pan. (to answer the question about the mufflers, the tubes are full split all the way. i'm running full split headers and 2 cherry bombs) frame bump stops are cut down to about 1". when i'm there i have to see what's next. since the car is a true survivor, i don't want to add 4-links or c-notch if avoidable. let's see how far i can go without destroying things. i noticed the drive shaft touched the floor pan once in a while when i was going real low under full load, so... deathbound, thanks a lot for your great documentation an the work you put into sharing the process! that is a great help to me! your car looks great! everyone else, please don't argue! this thread may be a little OT on this forum, but i don't think it's worth fighting over. after all, there are so many different ways a car can be cool and pretty, who's to decide? and it would be boring if they where all the same.

I've got no idea what economy I get out of mine. Our fuel price here in Oz presently equates to about $6.05 per gallon (in your talk). I just have fun driving it and then top up the gas tank when it needs it.

Tim his car has other issues with oil consumption etc hence the rebuild. He and I have talked about it before. I agree the two things aren't related. Its just become a two birds with one stone thing. Dave PM me your dist # and I can see if we have a match for it if you don't already have a second.

And now a video of me driving up and down the street...with the new tires. What a difference having 4 new tires makes!!

I had bought a good used lower dash control assembly. This has machined turned detail and holds most of the cars switches and ignition. The original.... And the replacement. You can see that there is a lot of corrosion and dirt in the machined turned detail. I tried many different things to try and clean it up. I tried all kind sof cleaners and brushes...even a pressure wash...just wouldn't come clean to my satisfaction. I was wandering around the garage trying to think of what else I could try when I spotted a new package of small wire brushes I had just purchased. In the pack was a brass brissel wire brush...I thought this might clean the little grooves without damaging anything. Well I was right! All clean and looking better then it has in 60 years!

Fred, I hope you don't think I highjacked your thread, just thought it might be better to add everything to this thread instead of starting a new one. I received the correct shackle for the left rear today, installed it & put everything back together. It sits about 2" higher than it did with 3" blocks & 75 year old sagging rear springs. I think the 3" lowered springs are compared to a stock spring without wear & tear. Anyways, not as low as I would've preferred, but on the positive side, I now have a completely new rear suspension & a MUCH better ride. I may add 1" or 2" blocks, but for now, I'm just going to drive & enjoy it. Also, within the last month or so, had the stock wheels sandblasted, then I painted them & had new Firestone Super Deluxe bias-ply tires mounted. The left side replacement shackle has 1 bushing that has left hand threads, but I don't think they got the memo overseas that there should be notches on the "highs" of the bolt, so I added them with a file for future reference. old/replacement: before-with 3" lowering blocks & 75 year old stock sagging springs: after-with Posies 3" lowered springs: