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I think this topic is one of personal opinion and preference. Alot like politics or religion. We each tend to go with what works for us. That said, as hot as possible without 'overheating", is the most efficient fuel-wise. It also does tend to keep the crankcase cleaner than a cold runnig engine. While 200 may sound hot, it really isn't. I personally believe the old adage that "if it ain't losing water, it ain't overheating". Maybe a little oversimplified, but still, its worked for me for many decades. Bottom line, leave the 180 in there and quit staring at the gauge. Turn up the radio and drive on!

Hey, I was shown this forum by someone on another forum. I am picking up a 1950 Desoto hopefully this coming weekend. I went to a customers house and he restores "Brass Era" cars, he inherited this from someone on his wifes side. It was running when the orig owner died, it sat for a couple years in a barn, then it got towed to another barn where its been sitting. Before showing/telling me about it I had mentioned that my wife and I plan to get a 50's car one day to restore together. Then he brought up his Desoto. He said that if I wanted it I could have it for $500. So I plan to pick it up asap. I know very little about these but its in pretty dang good shape. Here are some pictures. What do you think?

If indeed a 1950 it will be a S14, based on the pictured trim line of the car I would say it is a Custom so the model in full is S14C The vehicle will have a 125 1/2 inch wheelbase and a 236.6 CI engine with CR of 7.0 and HP of 112 @3600 the DeSoto could have been built in one of two places Detroit and Los Angeles If Detroit your first body number is 6233501 and LA is 60005001 the engine will have the prefix S14 with first engine number 1001 Your Desoto will share the wheelbase of the smaller Chrysler for that year. You need the repair manual if nothing else to start off with. I would recommend you get it, read over it, familiarize yourself with the basic deisgn and function of the basic components that make up the car long before attempting any said repairs on the vehicle. This could actually save you form injury to yourself or damage to a part. Welcome, have fun, good luck...

Check your connections, especially the ground. X's 2 on the "opening it up to see if it's just the grease that has gone hard" advice.

You are talking electric rather than vacuum aren't you DD? I think that your motors over there are a bit different to ours in Oz. Have you tried opening it up to see if it's just the grease that has gone hard - that seems to be a common problem.

It's nice to see some one "make" things the way they want themselves as anyone can go buy one or pay to have it done. I like what you have done and I will probably have to do the same as I also have bought a new tank from Tanks Inc but didn't know they were a bit different in size. The only thing of concern I see is the heads of the bolts apear to be up against the tank and might rub through after time on the road, thinking I might use revits. Thanks Dan

My guess is that more folks will read the artcle about your car than all other articles in the magazine. How exciting is it to read an article about a trailer queen that lists all the advertised products but the car has never been in the rodeo.

At www.hotrodders.com is a bulletin board called "Hot Rodders Bulletin Board” which has a thread titled "Build Hot Rod How To Articles". In there is a thread called 37-57 Buick, Olds and Pontiac front suspension up grades where they adapt later upper and lower "A" frames and ball joint spindles to the original frame. I am working on a system for P15-D24 cars as they are very similar to the Buick, Olds and Pontiac in design. I am using 66 Chrysler Cordoba upper "A" frames and spindles, disc, and calipers. I have made an adapter to fit in the lower "A" frame to hold a Chrysler screw in balljoint and a 3/8"x3"x4" angle iron upper "A" frame adapter that bolts into the original upper mounting holes. Look at the article, lots of good ideas and all better than a MII or a Camaro clip.