48ply1stcar Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Does anyone else have this issue? The 53 engine had a pully with marks and the 56 has a harmonic balancer without marks. My first thought is to transfer the marks from the old to the new and mark it with a saw blade. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 my first call would be use a dial indicator/stop and find TDC..then mark with use of timing degree wheel to also mark it in 2* increments up to 10 before and 10 after TDC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 I'd use key stock to line both pullys up and clamp them in a vise and transfer the marks with a hacksaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Haymond Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 A little bit of white paint rubbed into hacksaw slots will make them even easier to see. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barabbas Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 I had the same situation on my '52. I just put a paint mark at TDC and use a timing light that has a delay/advance function Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 I did the "0" mark with the bandsaw (hacksaw would work too) made the 10 degree marks w/ a cold chisel and 5 degree marks w/center punch,...then paint filled. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meadowbrook Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 If you are asking how to find the TDC on the pulley without marks, I would recommend a device that consists of a hose with a fitting on one end that threads into the spark plug hole and the other end has a whistle. I works wonders because it eliminates the guesswork as to whether top dead center is in the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke because it only whistles if both valves are closed as the piston comes up. I used it on my 50 Dodge 230 and loved it. Funny story, up to acquiring the Dodge, I was used to more conventional OHV engines and assumed a carefully placed rod or screwdriver into the spark plug hole would tell me visually if the piston was at TDC. Naturally I was going nuts that I could not detect movement when I pulled the plug on the Dodge and though that that maybe the crank broke as the 'piston' would be stationary and then seem to move up a bit and then down. Until I realized it was a valve I was looking at. Then I dope slapped myself. Which is when I remembered I had the hose 'whistler' dad gave me previously. then I adjust the timing with a special gun that allows you to dial in the timing you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 The pictured pipe plug is on all Mopar flathead engines directly above the number 6 piston. It is there so you can find top dead center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 finding TDC with the plug in number 6 is general at best and only if your pulley/balancer is known as dead on at the time is this of value as it will get you close and you can align the marks/pointer at the pulley..however considering age, condition, harmonic balance that may be slightly off due to age and wear (yes they will slip) the degree wheel and piston stop is the only true way to verify and also mark degree graduations accurately.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 I have TDC. I was wondering how others may have marked the pully. The weight on the pully is not attached and appears to float. So I think I'm just going to use a saw or a file on the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 If the weight floats you best replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Seriously, if your weight floats, change the pulley/damper before it comes off by itself and hits the fan before it going into the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 http://www.damperdoctor.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted July 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2014 I have had a quick and straight forward reponse from harmonic balancer repair, hprepair.com out of Salem, OR. $115 plus shipping. Has anyone else used this company for repair. PS also contacted the Damper Doctor waiting to call after sending picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48ply1stcar Posted August 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 Here we go another $115 into a $300 engine. The grands kids will be here Wednessday - so nothing but honey-do stuff for now. Sent it do hbrepair in Salem OR last Saturday and received it in the mail yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted August 4, 2014 Report Share Posted August 4, 2014 I have to retract my earlier post about your damper coming off and doing more damage. Having changed mine two days ago, it is clear that the damper cannot come off unless all six bolts holding the pulley and the damper coming off first. I apologize for my attempt to cause urgency when it wasn't needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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