maok

Doesn't look good at all. Pull it apart, start again.

I had a similar issue on my '28, but this was a constant discharge of about 10amps. It would only happen when the lights were switched on. After disconnecting each light plug one after the other, the left front headlight was where the short was. The parking light socket and its spring were rusted and shorting on the power wire. Be systematic with your diagnosis, otherwise it will test your character and soul.

Well, seeing as your lights are flicking, if it was me, I would start with the lights and its circuit. I would check, Light globes (front and rear), their sockets and connections, Wiring to the lights, Light switch and dimmer, if it has one. The amp meter showing a discharge indicates there is a short somewhere.

Would it not have been simpler to just go all electric rather than a hybrid? I started a conversion on a '84 alfa GTV over 15 years ago but money or time didn't agree with my imagination...☹️

Is there where hotrodding will go?

Yeah, forget this idea. IF its stationary then it wont be the driveshaft.

Try disconnecting the driveshaft from the gearbox and run the engine. It sounds exactly like the issue I had on my '28.

Quick question, in that video, is the car moving or are you stationery?

That doesn't sound like a thrust (throw out) bearing noise. Normally throw out bearing noise occurs when you push the pedal in. There is only one way to find out, pull the gearbox. Or if you box has an inspection plate.

After clicking a few hundred miles I thought I would do an update on how the engine is running. Oil pressure is reading between 20 - 40psi when hot, previously 5-13psi...lol All the cylinders are about 85psi on the compression gauge. The vacuum gauge reading 19-20, there is a slight miss fire. The car has lost some of its vintage characteristics, no smoking and no rattling from the engine. I can now use the 3 speed gearbox as a 2 speed, 2nd and 3rd only required. It now climbs pretty much any hill effortlessly...:) The balancer has shifted, so my timing marks are useless. The engine paint I used was a cheap brand and is washing off with oil...:(

Where does one find twelve thumbs?

But metric is so much easier, I just count my fingers. With imperial, I have to break one of my fingers in half, quarter, etc, it bloody hurts.

if you are only using the electric fuel pump just for priming then a regulator is not required. If full time then a regulator would be required.

It doesn't put out more, it CAN put out more if your electrical system needs it.

It looks to be a radiator badge, very similar to my '28 Chrysler, stuck on there.

Just couple of points I would like to make; 1. Yes, it is your car at this moment in time but really, we are all just custodians of these wonderful automobiles. You may pass it down to another, let it rot, or sell it on when you have enjoyed it, however, we should always consider our own mark of its history. It may not be a full classic or a rare machine this time in its history but this may change in 10, 30, 100 years time. 2. By installing another engine it doesn't mean it will be safe, or more safe, that will come down to the quality of the workmanship not the type of engine or drive train installed. It will probably cost less in money and time to put it back to an original engine, as others have mentioned, they are not rare and readily available. If you have never done an engine transplant before, it will take much longer than you think, give you lots of head scratching. My 2 cents worth. It's a beautiful car by the way.

Why do you want/need 200hp? EDITED : (Did they not come with L8?) Oops, it was the Chrysler version that had the L8 If you do a basic re-build with some HP mods, it should give you more than enough torque/hp to be a great cruising post vintage automobile. If you need to do highway speeds, I don't know the diff ratios of a '37 Airflow, but there maybe an overdrive unit available, if not a diff swap maybe something to consider.

The timing marks 'could' be placed anywhere on the balancer, the pointer position determines where they are.

Some of you may have heard this before.

So you are going to 'de-value' a unique model in time and history? Why not do that to something more common like a Dodge or Plymouth of the period. IMHO.

Or pay someone else to do it....lol

You needed ReCell.

A simpler, though slightly longer way of adjusting the valves is to just follow the distributor rotor, ie, start with #1 adjust inlet&exhaust, turn engine, #5 adjust inlet&exhaust, turn engine, etc 153624

You will probably find that the gears on the clutch plate and input shaft of the gearbox are aligning and not meshing, a wiggle of the gearbox or as others have suggested, push the clutch pedal in to release the clutch plate so it can move and mesh into the input shaft.

You answered your own question, take it to a electric motor rewinder. May or may not be an economical proposition.