maok

For future reference; Chrysler part number #601532 Cone = Timken #14125a Chrysler part number #43032 Cup = Timken #14276 Chrysler kit number #10546 = Timken 14125a/14276

Thanks for that, I didn't think the CR was a brand name...lol After giving the bearing a good clean, bingo, part number. KOYO #14125A

Hey guys, I have never done inner wheel bearings before, but it looks like I do need to replace the ones on my '37 Dodge MC, yes, its a truck chassis. Does any know the part number for the front inner wheel bearing and the seals, and the equivalent part numbers from timken, etc? The number seen on the pics is the seal only.

There is a chance that one of the optima's was bad, ie., internal short, because you had them in parallel, this would have caused the other to go flat as well even when the alternator was trying to charge them.

@Tony WestOZ Just the element mate. @JBNeal Awesome dude, that's exactly what I needed. I'm not home at the moment, I will check when I get back, its probably the first one. On the question of if its needed, well it wont hurt that's for sure.

The benefit should be at low down rpm torque, where we often drive at.

Does anyone know the part number for the VPW oil filters - they sell it cheap enough, however the postage to Australia is murder.

If your wires are still attached to the regulator, I would recommend you do a continuity test with multimeter to determine which is which. Someone may have switched them around in the past.

The thicker wire is the armature wire.

How did the weber go? I'm interested in drivability, throttle response below 40mph I am considering this option as well.

LoL!!!!! Yep, you are correct, definitely an enigma. I would guess that this car has had a stint in Mexico and that plate is a Mexican registration plate placed there when registered there.

Hey Andy, there is a '40s Dodge and a Chrysler (even your favourite Ford as well) coupes for sale on Oz ebay at the moment....?

I will be doing this shortly to my '37 as well. The wire from the alternator goes to the 'BAT' battery wire on the regulator. ie., the one going to the ammeter. It shouldn't have any affect on the other systems. The F & A wires on the generator and regulator should be terminated off.

Yeah, I like the bum as well. Aust day at Ormiston will be Clyde's first real outing.

Do you have a side on view, the coupes always look better side on.

Also from Brissy,

Go back to the bench seat, IHMO, buckets look awful in pre '60's cars.

Well it worked...:) Moral of the story is, check your battery if you are having charging issues. I've used it before on old batteries that have been sitting around for a while.

This may have something to do with this issue. Will Inox fix it? ?

Thanks guys for the input. I have done all the basics, with no luck. Cleaned all the terminals on the generator and regulator, cleaned both the current and voltage relay points in the regulator. Checked the generator by motoring it ( fan belt not attached). So I am stumped. Next is to get under the dash and look for a short where the radio may have been connected. A 6volt alternator is on its way from the land of the free.

Thanks for the specs pic, much appreciated. The diode mod is there to replace the cutout relay, its a common mod for the more simple 3 brush generator/cutout relay combinations. The diodes allow one direction of current flow ie, to the battery only.

Thanks for the replies. At idle, it is charging the battery without any accessories on, I confirmed by attaching a voltmeter on the battery and watched the voltage rise from about 6.4v to 6.9v. At full charge rate, it reads about 7.4v. When the head lights are switch on at idle, the ammeter reads a discharge, so the ammeter is functioning correctly. Fast idle or anything well above idle the ammeter immediately goes off the scale to +20amp. I have eliminated all the wiring from the radio, 6v to 12 v step up transformer, there was also a cigarette lighter socket installed under the dash, but with no obvious signs of any issues. It also looked like there was a provision to run the 12 volts accessories from a 12 volt battery under the drivers seat (RHD). I pulled the regulator cover off to find an interesting mod, the cut out relay has been replaced by two diodes in parallel. Either looked more than capable to do the job on its own. So, Im not sure why 2 were installed. Both the voltage and amp relays look okay to me, but I have never serviced one. The amp relay ( the centre unit) does not seem to cut out when the engine is revved up.

Thanks Jerry, it's a full voltage and current regulated setup. My '28 has the simple three brush and cutout setup. After digging out all the wiring that was installed for the radio/setup module and noise suppressor, there nothing relating to the generator or regulator.. Lol

Hi guys, you may have seen my new '37 Dodge that I recently acquired, which I took delivery mid week. The previous owner installed a kenwood 12v stereo in, you can see its not a perfect match, not the greatest wiring job but looked okay. A 6v to 12v stepup transformer was also installed because the car is still 6v +ve ground and a noise suppressor module. The missus said, "has to go" which I didn't disagreed with, so I pull it out. Now the ammeter reads full charge (actually, well pass the 20amp reading) as soon as I put my foot on the throttle, even the slightest push. At idle the ammeter needle is at 0. I haven't dug into it yet, but what could make the generator/regulator do this. The only thing I can think of is that the battery is not holding its charge, however, it does turn over and start the car easily, this implies the battery is not bad. Before I removed it, the ammeter was reading correctly. Its got me puzzled. Any suggestions?

Its a 25" block, a remote brake booster has been added, the MC doesn't look like the US models but does look original to the car, there is some sort of upper lubrication system installed. Its leaking some coolant. I was told the gear and different has 80-90w oil in them. Do these gearboxes have synchromesh in 2nd &3rd gears? No body builders name on the plate below the Dodge plate on the firewall. Are the taillights correct? When i first seen it, I thought they were Ford repro's.