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Posted

I read in other posts that these engines like to be timed 2 deg. before dead center,at two deg. where should the points be?On my engine the rotor is at about 7:00 and the points are open is this right?

Posted

7:00 is approx to the correct position of the rotor button when timed at #1 TDC..the open points says the coil just fired...(the field collapses when connection is broken..opening of the points)...this method is good for setting the static timing on an engine in order to start...dynamic timing should be set using a timing light at correct engine speed..

Posted
are the points supposed to be open?

Depends...........on the rotation of rotor. 7:00 is when the #1 cylinder should be firing and where tdc should be. The points should open (.025) and close during the rotation. Are you trying to set the gap?

Best.

ARTHUR

Posted

Look in the tech section for how to static time your engine.

Basically, if you want to set your timing at 2 deg BTDC, put your engine so the timing mark is lined up with the indicator then turn your distributor until the points just open (CCW if I remember right).

Posted

I thought you line the pointer to the second line to the right of dead center?then rotate the distributor so the points are open.I just want to static time and I read that 2 deg. before tdc helps the engine run cooler.

Posted

Jim sounds right on point. Best to use a timing light otherwise you're just guessing. If you set the pointer 2 degrees or so off then adjust the dizzy another two degrees you might just be at tdc depending on which way you rotate it. Always start at tdc.

Best.

ARTHUR

Posted

ok, I will try what Jim recomends it will be a little while before I get to try it out. I have my radiator off to get a leak fixed.Thanks guys

Posted

I guess I wasn't sure exactly what you meant by points open. All the way open? no. Just barely open, yes. There's about three or four ways to tell if the points are just barely open. The tech section has the whole procedure.

If you have a 2 deg timing mark you can line that up then use the procedure to set the timing. I just don't think you'll get close if you're trying to tell if the points are open by looking at them. But then again, I've never tried to do it that way.

Posted

Right now I set it to top dead center with the points open a little.I also will tune it with a timing light but am still waiting on getting my raidator back.

Posted

So, if I understand what you just said, you set the timing by looking at the points instead of using some type of continuity or voltage tester...

When you check it with a timing light let us know how close you were, inquiring minds would like to know.

Posted

Well it was way off doing it by hand.I put the timing light on it and the mark was to the left of the pointer by 8 deg.I set it to top dead center now.For two deg. before tdc should the mark be to the left or right of the pointer? Or which way should I turn the distrubitor?

Posted
Timing should be checked at idle.

increasing the rpms will advance the timing (if the mechanical advance portion of the distributor is functioning properly). You will see that if you have the timing light directed at the pointer when you increase the rpms.

I believe that you also want to have the distributor vacuum line disconnected and plugged when you are checking timing.

Marty

Posted

Marty, there's really no need to disconnect the vacuum line since the vacuum source is above the throttle plate where there is not enough vacuum to have any effect on the diaphragm.

Those dang Chevys started that practice because their vacuum source is below the throttle plate where vacuum is present all the time its running.

Just another reason that its easier to maintain a flathead mopar than a belly-button SBC.

Posted
Marty, there's really no need to disconnect the vacuum line since the vacuum source is above the throttle plate where there is not enough vacuum to have any effect on the diaphragm.

Those dang Chevys started that practice because their vacuum source is below the throttle plate where vacuum is present all the time its running.

Just another reason that its easier to maintain a flathead mopar than a belly-button SBC.

Niel,

There was a reference in an earlier post about revving the engine up some to check the centrifugal advance, and in that case there would be some vacuum in the ported vacuum source. You are of course correct if he is just checking initial advance.

Marty

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