what a day...2bbl carb install

[Powerhouse]

I just got one of those single 2 bbl setups from Langdon's. Went on pretty easily and I could use the original linkage. I had to do some modifications though...just move some stuff...no customizing original stuff. He suggested cutting the original linkage arm short and threading the end so a carb linkage arm could be used...but the original fit right in! i I didn't have to do any of that. BUT...the changing the carb came at a good time...because I just noticed the throttle linkage was cracked and broke off when I touched it. That's the second thing in 3 days that has fallen off when I touched it...I'm Talkin' about the timing marker... ANyway, I made up a new piece and bolted on to the old one...worked like a charm. Took me a while to make it though...with just a grinder and drill and some flat steel. The new Carb works GREAT! It idles smoothly and starts right up every time! SUCH an improvement to that old 41 Dodge Stromberg. Plenty of power too...just takes a tiny bit longer to get to it...but it's so much smoother and steady. Worth the $150:)

[John Mulders]

Good work, hope you can post some pics too.

John

[Powerhouse]

ok..

NEW LINKAGE PIECE...good enough...I made it a bit longer for strength and throw...I couldn't get full swing of carb arm....

CARB in place

[John Mulders]

Thanks, looks good, interesting airfilter.

John

[Powerhouse]

well..she runs great...once she gets up to speed. Sluggish on hills too. I guess that's what ya get with just one of these. Is there any way to make them run stronger?

[BobT-47P15]

Try a collander instead of the cake pan for an air filter cover....to let in more air.

Looks good. May just need some more tweaking. How about

the timing?

[Andydodge]

Powerhouse.......these are weber carbys?......do you know what model number?.......am curious as they appear to be similar to what was used on Australian 1980's Ford Falcons, the Oz weber number was ADM01......is there anything like that on the carby?.......thanks, andyd

[Don Coatney]

Did you make sure your linkage is opening the carburetor fully when you mash it to the floor? If not your secondary is not opening and this will restrict power severly.

[greg g]

Also notice you have the vacuum line for the distributor advance plugged. Do you not have you vacuum advance connected??? That might be contributing a lot to your having to wait for power to build. Also, I noted you have left a couple fasteners of the base, you might have a vacuum leak at the carb to adapter mount.

[Don Coatney]

Greg;

Good call on the missing bolts. I missed that. Not sure if that is the vacuum advance that is plugged.

I was told that the vacuum advance port on my Carter Webbers is where the screwdriver is pointing

in the picture below.

[greg g]

Potato pototo, just wondered if he had a line plumbed for vacuum. I think I do see a thicker rubber lie from the drivers side. Perhaps thats it. With three choices haveing the right one is the deal.

With the stock carb you want ported vacuum that increases with air flow through the carb, nor intake vacuum which decreases.

[1940Mopar]

Don that's what the diagram from langdon shows as vacuum. I have both of mine hooked up and routed around the block to the advance. This may be overkill as I've hear you can plug one and run off of one. With my current setup it sputters a little and won't maintain idle but I'm not 100% sure I've got the engine up to operating temp yet and the chokes may be causing some issues.

Also beginning to believe my intake may have a leak.

[Don Coatney]

Don that's what the diagram from langdon shows as vacuum. I have both of mine hooked up and routed around the block to the advance. This may be overkill as I've hear you can plug one and run off of one. With my current setup it sputters a little and won't maintain idle but I'm not 100% sure I've got the engine up to operating temp yet and the chokes may be causing some issues.

Also beginning to believe my intake may have a leak.

Omari;

Best way to check for an intake manifold leak is as Greg mentioned. Point an unlit turned on propane tank burner all around your manifold with the car engine running. If you have an intake manifold leak the engine RPM's will change as the manifold vacuum pulls the propane into the combustion chamber.

[Powerhouse]

well...I have the vacuum advance hooked up...but it might me collapsing a bit at high speeds? I need to get a smaller diameter hose. I also have the gaskets well sealed between the adapter and carb. Timings fine...It idles like a dream! I drove it on the 215 freeway in SoCal...Hills and more hills...it was really a pain. I cruised at around...75 mph in OD...and higher...not sure exactly because my speedo gear has 3 too many teeth. By the time I got to the top of some of those hills I lost almost 40 mph! I HAD to really gun it to keep moving. In any case the power is sufficiently more sluggish. Maybe I need to play with the mixture screws? How does one do this..I'm not familiar with the newer carbs.

[Don Coatney]

well...I have the vacuum advance hooked up...but it might me collapsing a bit at high speeds? I need to get a smaller diameter hose. I also have the gaskets well sealed between the adapter and carb. Timings fine...It idles like a dream! I drove it on the 215 freeway in SoCal...Hills and more hills...it was really a pain. I cruised at around...75 mph in OD...and higher...not sure exactly because my speedo gear has 3 too many teeth. By the time I got to the top of some of those hills I lost almost 40 mph! I HAD to really gun it to keep moving. In any case the power is sufficiently more sluggish. Maybe I need to play with the mixture screws? How does one do this..I'm not familiar with the newer carbs.

Did you make sure your linkage is opening the carburetor fully when you mash it to the floor? If not your secondary is not opening and this will restrict power severly.

[martybose]

(snip)

By the time I got to the top of some of those hills I lost almost 40 mph! I HAD to really gun it to keep moving. In any case the power is sufficiently more sluggish. Maybe I need to play with the mixture screws? How does one do this..I'm not familiar with the newer carbs.

Do NOT mess with the mixture screws; all you will do is mess up the idle mixture. I think Don is correct; did you check for full throttle opening?

The other detail is that you are running a carb that was meant for a 2 liter motor on a 3.7 liter motor; maybe that is why a pair of them work so well.

Marty

[Powerhouse]

yeah...I don't wanna mess with the mix. I leave that alone.

I checked the linkage and it seems to work all the way...maybe an 1/8th inch more to push till fully open...I gotta work on that. I think it's just too small a carb for the engine.

[Don Coatney]

That last 1/8" could make all the difference in the world. If you look at the venturi area of the

Carter-Webber and the original Carter B&B you can see that the two barrell has more total

venturi area than the single barrell.

It may take two people to do the linkage check. One to mash the

pedal to the floor and the other to shine a flashlight down the

throat of the carbuerator to insure both butterflies are wide open.

[Powerhouse]

well...today I had time to redo the linkage. I needed to have a shorter link arm between carb and linkage bracket. I didn't want to cut down my original, should I ever need to ise the old setup again...so I improvised. I didn't have any flat metal strong enough laying around to make a new one...or any rods. Instead I used an antique butter knife I had laying around. It has no more silver plate left and doesn't match my silverware sets I use...so I drilled a whole on each end at the desired locations and put some nuts and bolts to attach the thing at both ends. Works like a charm! I eventually want to replace the nuts an bolts with some rods and pins. LOOKS SWELL TOO!