1940Mopar

Great. Just need to work up the nerve now.

Okay the. I'm thinking about extending the plate well beyond the necessary are for the repair. What gauge steel would you suggest.

I've borrowed a pic from another forum members post because I'm not able to take paid of my car right now. I'm looking for input from you all to help me in how to approach this problem. I've got rust in the front crossmember just above where the lower control arm bolts thru the member. My plan is to cut out the rusty area and weld a plate in its place. As much as I would love to make this a stock looking cross member when it's all send and done my bigger concerns is that the rust be removed and the piece be sufficiently strengthened to handle the load based on where the repair site is. I've circled where the rust spot is.

What site?

Don that's what the diagram from langdon shows as vacuum. I have both of mine hooked up and routed around the block to the advance. This may be overkill as I've hear you can plug one and run off of one. With my current setup it sputters a little and won't maintain idle but I'm not 100% sure I've got the engine up to operating temp yet and the chokes may be causing some issues. Also beginning to believe my intake may have a leak.

Confirmation that the 40 is silk screened I took mine apart today to check and see how bad off it was. Nothing is etched into the glass just screened on.

I'm cringing as I write this because I'm probably going to order my offy intake a few days and don't want anyone to grab up the one he currently has in stock....but anything for the p15-d24 family. So here goes.... Exeter Auto Supply is an official Offy dealer. They can get anything offenhauser makes. They have the offy intakes for the flathead sixes at $264.91. Also if you join the HAMB alliance through jalopyjournal.com you can get an additional 5% off the retail price. Please try not to ruin my day by ordering the one I've got on hold now. Langdon also sells offy intakes, and I know he gets fenton stuff for stovebolts and may be able to get fenton for flatheads sixes.

nope that's definitely not a 40 park light.

I'm in the process of getting a similar setup running. Langdon may recommend the carter/weber setup instead of the holley/weber. I think for the smaller displacement sixes this is his standard offering. 201-218 probably go for a dual carter/weber setup with similar if not better fuel economy that the stock single. Anything larger 230-251 and greater holley/weber may be better. One thing to consider is the air cleaner options are limited with these setups due to the shape of the top of the carbs. Langdon sells all of the parts you need to make this a relatively simple bolt on affair.

Well I'll be there....Can't enter my car but I can sure walk around and check out all of the nice stuff. I'll take plenty of pics.

Shel, Is this a yard that sells stuff if so, I would love to find out if they have parts for my 40. The pic you shot is definitely a 40 plymouth. Obviously difficult to know how much of it is there but, if you could find out I would appreciate it. Rodney and I will have to fight over what might be available:p ....I'm not sure I want to tustle with him though. BTW if it is a selling yard....I'm calling dibs on the front trim and emblem. Thanks Omari

Anyone showing up. I'll be there on Sunday morning bright and early. Let me know if I should look for any of you all. Omari

Don, I was using one based on some information I had seen on a couple of the stovebolt boards. I'd also remembered Langdon himself mentioning I may want to think about using one. Unless something else develops to indicate that I may want to use one, I'm not planning on running it with one. Are you in town this week if so thursday or even possibly tommorow after 4pm would be great. let me know. Thanks Omari

Finally got the problem diagnosed and licked. Changed the spark plugs. Poured a little gas into the front carb. The engine hit almost immediately but would not keep running. Then I decided to check for fuel at the carb inlets yet again. This time when I checked.....NOTHING....NADA.....ZILCH. The Fuel pressure regulator was the problem. I had installed it between the fuel pump and the carbs. It seemed to work fine at first but must have either been faulty or installed improperly. So I removed the faulty regulator, and ran a direct line from the pump to the Tee fitting. Turned it over a couple of time to get fuel up to the carbs, pumped the gas a couple of times. It hit and turned over and kept running. Anyway it now runs again and sounds great no smoke and no unusual sounds. I've got to adjust everything starting with the carb linkage. In its current configuration, its holding the throttle slightly open. I've also got to adjust the idle. Input from anyone who has run this setup would is greatly appreciated. Don Coatney if you're reading this I'll definitely need your help getting this thing dialed in properly.....as it seems to be idling too high. Next steps are to drop the tank and clean it out really well to make sure I don't have any problems, then run my fuel lines, and rebleed the brakes. Then I should be able to get the car off the jackstands. and start hanging sheet metal. Will keep you posted.

Lou, I'm bypassing the fuel tank altogether. I've got a can of gas that I've submerged the fuel line into. I'm getting plenty of pressure out of the pump. Just need to figure out where the supply is getting choked off.

It could be silk screened. Mine was too far gone to really be able to tell. To be honest there was barely any writing on the glass. That's why i'm thinking about a full out custom job. I've collected a few dashes over the last several months. I've got an original 40 plymouth, a cut up 40 plymouth that was going to be my attempt at a custom dash, and a 40 dodge with all the trim. The dodge dodge has significantly more chrome which I really like, plus its a bolt in affair. However, it too needs the glass refinished.

anyone know someone who can refinish the glass panels. I've run into a couple of ideas on redoing mine and I'm not that concerned with being original but I do want a nice professional looking job when its all said and done. I don't have the patiences although I may be able to develop it if necessary:D I've heard of a guy on the Plymouth bulletin who has a young lady who did stickers for on plymouth truck, but stickers don't appeal to me right now. Any ideas?

Thanks this is definitely helpful.

I've disconnected the fuel line after the outlet to the carbs but not as close to the carbs as possible. I'll definitely check that this evening. I'm also beginning to suspect my vacuum is not connected properly, and that my fuel pump may not be correct. I was suspicious at the parts counter and even after I bolted it up. However, when I checked to see whether it was pushing gas out I stop being suspicious. Now I'm beginning to wonder whether its correct, despite the fact it is pushing gas out. It may be pushing, but not enough to get the fuel all the way up to the carbs. New pump is ordered and on the way. I've been checking stovebolt.com to get some ideas on how to run the vacuum. Marty, do you have any pics of your setup that I could use as a reference. I had heard that it would be okay to block one port for the vacuum and run a single line from the distributor however, I think I'm gonna put a T fitting in the line and run both vacuums into the distributor.

I've finished buttoning up the new dual intake, and have plumbed new fuel lines, including finding and purchasing 4 of the last 8 5/16 inch female inverted flare T fittings in Nashville. (if there are more out there the parts counter guys don't know what they are looking at). I've recently installed a new fuel pump that seems to be working. I've got some minor leaks still but will work those out shortly. I'm adding this bit of information in an effort to make sure that I've stated everything that might be a problem. I've installed the new Langdon Carter/Weber Carbs and run my wires for the automatic choke and they are functioning. I've also installed a fuel pressure regulator set at the recommended 3.5 lbs/psi, and I've run the supplying fuel line into a five gallon gas can as a temporary gas tank. Here is my problem. If I pour a tiny bit of gas to start the car up it will run off of what was poured into one carb; however it will not continue to run even though it is getting fuel. I've check whether the fuel pump is working by disconnecting the fuel line at the outlet, and it is definitely pushing gas out. What gives? Is there a recommended carb adjustment I should do prior to running the C/W carbs? I've followed the Langdon diagram as far as blocking off vacuum lines, although I could check again to be 100% sure. Is there a vacuum line I'm forgetting? I've never worked with this type of setup and may be in over my head but wanted to make sure I'm not missing something simple before i call in the professionals. I figured my next step was to synch the carbs to make it run right but I can't get it to run long enough to be able to synch. Could I be pushing too much fuel or not enough. I've checked the spark plugs they don't seemed fouled or anything, and like I said the car will start and run from 5 to 10 seconds like a champ, but quits after that.

I need to run fuel lines to get my car running properly after my new dual carb install. I have a few questions related to design of my fuel system, and would love some feedback to help me do this the right way the first time. I should say at the outset that I would like to use copper mainly because of how it looks, but have heard that may be a bad idea, so feedback on this issue is also appreciated. Now for my questions: What type of tubing is everyone using. (Steel, Stainless, Brass, Copper Rubber) Best size of tubing? (inner diameter) What fittings work best? (flare, compression, pipe) What washers sealant, if any, will hold up to gas? Do I need to flare the ends of the tubing for the hard line and if so single or double? Thanks in advance. I've got a setup that I like right now but its leaking pretty badly at some of the fittings so back to the drawing board I go.

I'll take a set. do you take paypal?

what did you do to start it. Like greg g said there is a starter pedal in these cars. They don't engage with the key. That was something completely foreign to me when I bought my 40 and I'm sure I would have been frustrated if the guy i bought it from didnt think to tell me about the starter pedal.

I'm definitely interested in how this comes out and how much she would charge for this service. I've got a 1940 dodge cluster begging for the same treatment. Keep us posted. thanks

This may be an old topic...but i read it again for the first time. Alot of these "rats" are built on very expensive and custom frames not to mention the fact that there is still some inherent value in the body even when modified, and much more value in the vehicle as a "hotrod." Couple this with the sky rocketing price of fords and chevys of the same era, all of which are not as attractive as our Mopars, and you get a newly found interest in Mopar "hotrods." I was at a guys house the other day. He had rusty bodies for every plymouth between the years 33 to 39. He had just sold one for 4000.00 dollars to a guy in California who was going to pay a shipping company 1500.00 to ship it to CA. a 5500 dollar investment in something that had no floors, no interior no dash, no drive train except for a rear end, no brakes and covered with pretty extensive surface rust....AKA patina in rat rod speak. I thought about it and, I would be hard pressed to get 15K for my 1940 numbers matching plymouth business coupe in fully restored condition. But slap a later model V8 in it and alter the suspension to put it on the ground, with a little flat black, WWW tires and steelies and 15K is more than possible. This is attractive to guy and gals who don't want to spend the countless hours and energy required to restore a car or truck of this era and just like the ones mentioned above only to spend more money then they'll ever get out of the car. My point is don't judge a rat by its cover....and get ready to see a lot more of them. The good news is that anyone who is trying to sell their's can really consider asking a little more for a driver in good condition since non drivers in poor condition and now bringing so much.