Heatriser Very Seized

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, so far I have tried heat, with a torch, penetrating oil, and brute force, but I cannot move the heatriser flap.

I have the manifold on the bench, I have tried the above, I may send it to a shop, not sure, but may just open it allowing exhaust to flow, I would have done this but no movement yet.

I have not tackled the broken bolt in the block yet, want to have back-up with me, I have to try and weld a nut on the end of this stub, and it is right close to the block, and everything was greasy, the fule lines ar not overly far either.

I might try applying heat and the penetrating oil cooling action, will see, may that might work well..........Fred

Once all this is fixed, I will lean everything up, paint it and re-install.

[oldmopar]

Fred

There is a shaft that the heat riser is on you should be able to cut the shaft and then remove it .

Worst case on the maifold is drill it out its not that bad of a job but you should remove the fender so you have a good line at it and get comfortable it will take some time

Ed

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

Mine was like that too when I opened up the manifolds. Had to cut the shaft at each end of the flapper with a dremel cutoff wheel. Then had to soak what was left of the shaft that goes into the casting in penetrating oil. Then heated the shaft, and drove it out with a small punch. Be gentle doing that, don't want to crack or break the manifold. Once I got the shaft out, the bushings were still stuck in the manifold, those had to come out too. Had to drill those out. Just used a small drill bit large enough to cut through most of the bushing, then they came out.

By the way, the part about the shaft brings up another possible problem if you plan to leave the riser out. The shaft holes go all the way through the casting. If you leave the riser out, you'll have to fill those holes.

[55 Fargo]

Ed, the manifold is on the bench, off of the engine, so it should be easier yet.........Fred

[55 Fargo]

Thats why I would like to if possible, get this shaft to turn, thus allowing the flap to turn, but not likely this will happen will it. What a real PITA

[Norm's Coupe]

I doubt you'll ever get that one to turn. I played with mine for several days trying to get it to move so I wouldn't have to spend 50 bucks for a new one. I think once those freeze up, they are toast.

[oldmopar]

Ed, the manifold is on the bench, off of the engine, so it should be easier yet.........Fred

Must have misread the 1st post I thought you had a broken bolt in the block. If its one of the 4 that hold the manifold together its not a bad job

Ed

[Normspeed]

By the way' date=' the part about the shaft brings up another possible problem if you plan to leave the riser out. The shaft holes go all the way through the casting. If you leave the riser out, you'll have to fill those holes.[/quote']

If you do that, I have a whole box of copper rivets I used to plug my choke rod holes.

[55 Fargo]

I would have the shaft removed, then leave whats left in the holes, , then tack weld a plate to cover, the area, there will be nothing to cover.

I will do it like this for 2 reasons, just in case at some point I wish to go with a new heatriser assembly, that way I can remove what is there and do the install.

I also have another set of manifolds, but the heat riser has been removed from that set.............Fred

[greg g]

When I did mine, I cut the pivot rod removed the flaper. We then drilled the ends of the pivot out. Welded in some appropriat sized screws to block the hole. Then welded the flap back in in the open position. I then fashioned a top plate from 14 gauge sheet metal. and fastened it the exhaust manifole with counter sunk screws. It is now totally seperated from the intake manifold. I have driven my car in early Aprin and late november where it has been below freeszing in the morning. The only ill effect I have noticed is ti take a bit more choke a bit longer.

If you wanted some heat, you can always zip tie the heater hose to the intake.

[55 Fargo]

Greg , I am replacing 3 studs that backed out,should I put a little sealant on the threads first so no coolant leaks out them, or is that unecessary............Fred

[greg g]

I didn't need to deal with any of mine so they are what they are. I have no issues with them. Some sealant couldn't hurt.

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

There are about 2 or 3 studs that you should not put sealant on according to the service manual. Forgot exactly which ones they are buy they tell you in the service manual. All the rest gets sealant.

[RobertKB]

Fred, I used a sealant on all of mine when doing my '38 Chrysler. I believe it was an anti-sieze lubricant which acts as a sealer as well.

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, and Thanx Robert,

I took my exhaust manifold to a machine/welding shop to have the heatriser unseized, they unseized it no problem, with a decent torch and some WD 40, not sure why it didn"t work for me.

I was talking with the owner, and he said he could make a new shaft for the heatriser, as mine was damaged on the end the counter weight and spring onto, thus allowing the heatriser to work again.

So I left the exhaust manifold at his shop, tomorrow I will bring the intake, the counter weight and spring, and they will make it work again, custom built, no kit.

I did notice when the flapper would shut on the heatriser, it does not shut absolutley closed, is that normal, there is a slight gap, probably won't hurt anything though.

One thing went well today, the Millwright, might come over and remove the broken piece of bolt in my block too, probably next wek..............Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred, the slight gap when closed is normal.

Thats pretty good to get road service to get the stud out of the block. Almost like old times when doctors made house calls.

[Don Coatney]

Fred' date=' the slight gap when closed is normal.

[/quote']

Norm;

With that slight gap dont you think something might get sucked into the intake manifold?

[55 Fargo]

Don, it's an enclosed chamber under the carb, so nothing can sucked into the intake, it would allow a tiny amount of warm exhaust I suppose.

[Don Coatney]

Don, it's an enclosed chamber under the carb, so nothing can sucked into the intake, it would allow a tiny amount of warm exhaust I suppose.

Fred;

You need to read all postings. Not just the ones you post:rolleyes:

Follow this link...

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=73550#post73550

[Norm's Coupe]

Don,

If you were to read that post I made before you'll see I did not say the screw (or whatever Rodney had in there) could get into the intake. What I said was: "It could get into the engine". However unlikely, it's possible through the exhaust manifold for whatever was rattling around in there to get in the engine through an exhaust port, nothing is impossible. It's one of those "Murphy Laws". What can go wrong, may go wrong. I would not take the chance that it would simply go out the exhaust pipe, I'd go in there after it.

[55 Fargo]

Sorry, an oversight, musta thought you guys meant the chamber in between the intake and exhaust where the flapper closes, as mine does not seal completely shut, but has a slight gap when closed.

I did not realize another thread was discussing a similar topic, this repair job has me a little stressed, so may not notice all that is posted, not a lot of available help in my locale with this engine......Fred

[55 Fargo]

This morning I brought my intake, heatriser spring, counter weight, to the shop where my exhaust manifold is sitting.

The shop owner is going to make a new shaft out of stainless, install, slit end of shaft for the thermo spring as per Chrysler picture and design, and hopefully it will work again, all for $30.00

[BobT-47P15]

Well, Fred, I would say "the price is right".