Power Steering solutions?

[John Burke]

For the comfort of the wife I have decided to add a power steering set-up to the 49 D-30. I have pretty well got it figured out on paper useing an early 70's gm power steering box grafted to the stock column. What I am wondering is if anyone has added power steering and how they did it. I am just searching idea's before the cutting torch comes out....thanxz, John

[later]

I have been looking for a power steering conversion and a member sent his setup with pictures to me. It is an install of a Cavalier power rack and pinion. The dimensions are close enough through the years that you could use this design. This was compiled by Kai Hendriksen from various sources. Follows;

Here are some Pics that I used to set up my power steering.

I lifted most from the forum. If I have offended anyone, I am truly sorry.

Below are the instructions from Fatman.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR UNIVERSAL RACK & PINION KIT

1. This kit is designed to fit late 30’s to early 50’s cars which have lower control arms whose inner shaft pivot line forms a “V” pointed toward the rear of the car (see diagram). Some of these cars use a bellcrank in the center to mount the tie rods, and some use a short LH and a long RH tie rod.

2. Before disassembling anything, put the car on jackstands on it’s frame, leveling the frame side to side and front to back. Then measure the height of the inner tie rod ends from the floor, and record that number. When the new rack & pinion is installed, it’s inner tie rod ends must maintain the same height as stock.

3. An 89-93 Cavalier rack & pinion is used in either manual or power versions along with it’s own inner and outer tie rod ends. Be sure to get the mount bushings and straps. We’ve supplied a Borgeson U-Joint to get you started with your steering hookup. Occasionally a Cavalier rack with a different spline shows up – don’t panic – just give us a call and we’ll exchange it for you! We also have u-joints to fit your steering column.

4. Replace the tie rod threaded connectors with the longer ones in the kit. Set the toe in at zero by turning the threaded adapters. The Cavalier outer tie rod end should fit your steering arms, and will usually require 1-3 flat washers to raise the nut up to the cotter key hole. If more than 3 washers are required, give us a call for a tapered tie rod hole sleeve.

5. Mount the rack with the brackets from the kit, and mock it up in place with a jack or wires tied to the frame rails. Be sure to maintain the height noted in #2 above, and be sure the rack is centered in it’s travel, as well as centered in the chassis. Also look out for oil pan interference and clearance for the tie rods as the suspension moves up and down and left to right.

6. Double check for any bumpsteer problems by checking for toe in change with suspension travel. Use a plumb bob at the outer end of the spindle, and mark the floor at full up and full down travel. If more than a 3/16” change is noted, try moving the outer tie rod ends down to see if it’s getting better or worse, and adjust accordingly

7. Now you can final trim the rack mounts to fit the frame contours. Some frames are wide enough as to require a small gusseted “shelf” added to the lower frame surface. We often find that motor mounts will be directly above these “shelves”, and can do double duty as both motor mounts and gussets. Add the kit gussets and weld everything securely in place.

8. Connect the rack and steering column with u-joints, being sure to keep them properly phased. Connect the hoses next, being sure not to confuse the pressure and return ports. Use genuine GM Power Steering Fluid. If the effort is too light, you can reduce the pump’s output pressure by shortening the pressure relief valve spring inside the pressure line fitting in the pump body. It’s about the size of your little finger-try cutting off ¼ of the length for starters.

I will post the rest next.

[later]

Here is the rest of the info. I apologize for not have the pictures in between the relevant text sections. The pictures are numbered in the order that they were in the document file. If any one would like this sent to them it is 1.5 meg abytes and will be a very long down load on dial up. Just drop me a PM and I will send it to you. Many thanks to Kai for sharing this with me and I hope he doesn't mind my passing this along.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The above adaptor I made.

Cut 3 ½ inches off the right hand thread end of the tri-rods.

Drill and tap; the cut off end (leaving the original right hand threads intact) to metric 18 X 1.5 to accept the original Cavalier adjusting screw. This make an adjusting device of left hand for the Cavalier tie rod and the right hand tie rod end original from the MoPar. I cut about an inch off the end of the tie rod end to allow enough of the thing to fit in the end. Tack weld the Cavalier adjusting sleeve to the 3 ½ cut off piece.

The adapter plates are made from ¼ in plate and 1” square tubing. The tubing is offset to allow the rubber to fit.

The above has the special Fatman adapter and Datson tie rod ends.

This is my tie rod end and adapter installed

The below pics are what I patterned my modification of the steering shaft after cutting off the steering box with a “sawzall”

This is the power steering pump mount I used from Ugly Truckling, here id the website. It has the instructions when you go to this site.

http://www.uglytruckling.com/WC%20Trucks/WC%201-2%20ton%20ps%20pump.htm

The hoses I made from 3/8 braided hose. You can have them made at any shop that makes hoses for tractors and the like. I would suggest that when you get the rack make sure you get the hoses too.

From the junkyard you need the total rack and pinion steering,(tie rods, hoses, adjusting sleeves, and the mounting brackets)

[BobT-47P15]

Or, you could simply buy my 54 Plymouth that has factory power steering,

and put it into your car. Thereby having vintage P S. The pump is made

onto the back end of the generator.

You could also have a Powerflite genuine Mopar automatic trans.....should bolt right up to a flathead six.....

since it already is.

[Plymouthy Adams]

[quote name=

Here are some Pics that I used to set up my power steering.

I lifted most from the forum. If I have offended anyone, I am truly sorry.

QUOTE]

Hey thats my car...lol...not offended..

[billwillard]

Alot of the new cars have electric power steering. If you are 12 volts I would look into them. I haven't yet but am going to one day.

[Don Coatney]

Alot of the new cars have electric power steering. If you are 12 volts I would look into them. I haven't yet but am going to one day.

Bill;

Electric as in an electric motor runs a hydraulic pump?

[teardrop puller]

Thanks Tim

I am so happy using the original tierod ends. Basicaly takes Fatman out of the loop, and saves a bunch. The only thing you should have to buy new is the U-joints.

kai

[dndrodshop]

Put one of the GM power racks in my P15 about 10 years ago and it works great. Make my own mounts and don't even remember how I modified the tie rod ends of the rack to adapt to the Ply steering arms.

[meadowbrook]

I was wondering how much of a bolt-on it would be to use a power steering setup from a '53 Mopar (assuming this is the 1st year for this option) onto my 1950 Meadowbrook. Anyone familiar with this?

[teardrop puller]

Here are the parts (steering arms) that my local welder made for me from the old arms. The length is 3 1/4" center to center from the tie rod hole to the nearest hole. I had to straighten the stock inner tie rod ends from the Cavalier, but that was the only change I made to the original setup after installing the new steering arms.

Took it for a drive today and how sweet it is being able to turn around in the street or a quick corner, with out having to take two or three swipes at it. Have not had it out on the highway yet, maybe I will have to look for a Cavalier rack with more turns of the wheel for the full throw.

kai

[Frank Elder]

R.I.P. John....I miss your posts and your go gett'em spirit.