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Circuit cohabitation in a '48 P-15


randroid

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Gents,

I'd like to wire my brake light to work on the running lights in order to create three lights instead of one, which I know hoe to do. I'd also like to wire my turn signals to work without causing the electricity from one system backing through the other. My knowledge of electronics extends to, but does not quite include, reading a resistor without a chart, but it seems that if I put a diode or two in the wires it could possibly be done. Has a thread been written on this that I could archieve? Should I fold my idea five ways and stick them where the sun don't shine? Or is the solution so simple it plum evades me?

Thanks in advance.

-Randy

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Somehow, mine works like that. Tail lights are brake lights and turn signals, with double filament bulbs. Center light is brake light only. Now, I only have the parking lights hooked up as turn signals because I have not purchased double filament bulbs for them. And, you do not use the parking lights much anyway. There are pretty good instructions with some brands of add-on turn signals. I think Mr Coatney has a copy of one such diagram.

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You will need a seven wire turn signal unit in order to do what you wish to do. I adapted new two pin sockets to all three tail lights. Use the regular tail light wire for all three tail lights. Leave the center light brake light wire in place and install it in the brake light side of the socket. The seven wire unit runs the turn signal through the brake lights. Tap into the brake light circuit with a new push on terminal at the brake light switch with both the orginal, now center tail light wire and the wire to the turn signal unit that connects to the brake light circuit. This requires running new right and left brake light/turn signal wires to the right and left brake light socket pin. You do not use the original brake light pig-tail at the lower tail lights, tape them off. Mine have worked with no problems for 20 years. I also adapted new two pin sockets to the front parking lights and ran new right and left turn signal wires to the bright light side of the socket.

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I couldn't figure it out either so I added some motorcycle cast off signal light fixtures to the back end and now have two tail lamps, and three brake lamps, and two seperate signals. I found this to be the easiest to wire. and find the seperate signals to be more effective in communicating my needs to the cell phone using, drinking coffee while tailgaiting, imbecile drivers that inhabit today's highways.

6dcdd5df.jpg

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Greg, that is a really great looking coupe you have.

There'a also a "little black box" that JC Whitney sells for under $10 , for combining the turn and center stop circuits. It's 12 volt. I bought one to install a third brake light on my teardrop but never got around to installing it or testing to see if it will work on my 6 volt system. I've heard that the same black box is included in some receiver hitch mounted 3rd brake lights.

I couldn't figure it out either so I added some motorcycle cast off signal light fixtures to the back end and now have two tail lamps, and three brake lamps, and two seperate signals. I found this to be the easiest to wire. and find the seperate signals to be more effective in communicating my needs to the cell phone using, drinking coffee while tailgaiting, imbecile drivers that inhabit today's highways.

6dcdd5df.jpg

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My '41 De Soto has an old 1940's Guide (GM) 5-wire turnsignal switch added by some previous owner.

I resolved the center stoplight-light thing by running a second single #12 wire from the stoplight-switch back to the center light on the trunk; the original stop-light wire had been re-routed up to the turn-signal switch, and worked through the switch to operate the stock fender lights as stop/turn/ tail.

I think the rear sockets were changed at some point... the original sockets on my car would've been single-contact bayonet base, and the fender lights would've been tail-lights only(#63 bulb). When I got the car, the fender lights had double-contact sockets and 1154 bulbs. I had to secure the socket shells to the OEM springy-clippy thing ( used a brass grommet as a rivet, then sweat-soldered the heck out of it all), but it looks and works pretty good now.

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When I did the ones on my 51 and also the 52 Plymouth I went to the local junkyard and got some light sockets from a Diplomat ...the old single element sockets are not stepped for the 1157 bulb so that is why I changed it all out..now they are dual and self aligning with no need to file a tab on the bulb.

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