Steering wheel more play.

[Fernando Mendes]

What is the probably cause of the more play of the steering wheel? Can It be TUBE w/ WORM or BUSHINGS or SHAFT or ARM?Your tip is very important for me.Thanks.Best regards.  

[Dave72dt]

Anything that is worn is a possible  cause and it may be several items.  The easiest places to look are at the steering linkage, suspension, and wheel bearings.  Even low tire pressure can give the impression of play.  The steering gear itself is a more difficult repair if that's where the play is simply because parts are difficult to source.  Rebuilding the box is not that hard but you need good parts to replace worn parts.

[greg g]

There is a rubber isolating pad between the frame and the steering gear box. A worn one can cause a lot of play between steering input and reaction. Does your car have the center split tie rods if it does check the mounts there.  Have you adjusted the set screw thing on the gear box?  Be careful you can make it bind if you go to far.  My steering wheel moves a inch or two in either direction before the wheels respond.  I guess I am used to it. Two years ago, I replaced the tie rod ends for a bit of improvement.  Doesn't bother on short trips but chasing it on long drives gets fatiguing.  Guess most of the wear is in my box.  Oh well, it goes on the next Owner's to do list.  I did find a link through O'Reilly for a source of rebuilt boxes.  

[Fernando Mendes]

Hi greg g.I did not know about a rubber isolating pad between the frame and the steering gear box.Yes it has the center split tie rods,because my PU is a B3-B.In october 1997 I changed a piece of the shaft and bushings,not the tube w/ worm.In november 2009 I restored the arm(cut and welded).I already adjusted the set screw and nut on the cover but without results.I did with friends a travel of 170 kilometers in august 2023 got fatiguing.Thanks very much.

[JBNeal]

B-3-B steering gearbox is bolted directly to the frame with no rubber.

 

additional information - steering gearbox adjustment procedure

[Robert Harrison]

All of the things mentioned can cause the steering problem so its also about trying to isolate the problem and adjusting the steering box before you do anything else.  With two people have one person work the steering wheel back and forth while observing for movement in the tie rods and steering linkage.  Also the end of the shaft coming out of the box.  Do this by jacking up the wheel closest to the box (leave the other wheel on the ground) and work the steering back and forth.  You should not have any slop anywhere.  Now put both wheels on the ground and look at the near linkages.   To adjust the box about the best you can do it adjust it so that the steering just starts to bind as the steering goes full right and full left.  Mostly I have just done this with a bit of experimentation but best to get the correct adjustment instructions.  Still because the box is probably worn you will/may need to adjust it till it binds in either direction.  The ball on the end of the pitman arm can be worn.  If you if you pull the linkage off you will notice that the ball is not perfectly round anymore.  The pitman arm ball can be replaced by welding on a new one if it is seriously out of round.  Getting the pitman arm off can be really tough without proper tools so you might try to stay away from that unless absolutely necessary.  Seals often leak becuse the bearing is no longer holding the seal round.  If the bearing is worn the seal will usually leak.  If you have excessive leakage your bearings are probably worn.  A little bit of leakage should be expected or rather better than getting into a box finding out you have damaged something or cant get the parts etc.  

[Fernando Mendes]

Today I encountered in my depot four square gaskets(4 3/8") each,one STRG tube & WORM BEARING CUP UPPER(part number 386642),one STRG GEAR BEARING CUP(part number 386642) group 1403 and two OIL SEAL without packaging.I do not know if these gaskets and oil seal are proper to the box.My mechanic thinks

[Fernando Mendes]

Now I noticed that my changed(cut and welded ends in 2009) DRAG LINK is not bent.What is the purpose of it be BENT?May I have to bend it?

[JBNeal]

I believe that bend is so that the drag link does not hit the oil pan.

[Fernando Mendes]

The drag link does not hit the oil pan.But I noticed today a crack on the left end package on it.I will try a pic tomorrow 

[Fernando Mendes]

The last inspection today we did(I and my mechanic) the cause of more play are ARM or SHAFT SPLINES.That crack is not on the left end package.It is only in the dust cover.

[Fernando Mendes]

Hi guys.Today my mechanic tightened the NUT arm.It was completely LOOSE.Thanks to all.

[JBNeal]

Good work...if that pitman arm comes loose again, that 19-27-9 lock washer may need replacement.

[Fernando Mendes]

5 hours ago, JBNeal said:

Good work...if that pitman arm comes loose again, that 19-27-9 lock washer may need replacement.

Yes JBNeeal.Including its castled nut is not original.I think it does not have the lock washer.